No factory clear coat on super white?

I do recall maybe hearing my '09 has no clear coat. Paint job is starting to oxidize.
Can anyone please confirm and explain WHY? Any solutions? Thanks

 

My understanding is that the white is a single stage paint and that the clear is essentially mixed into the paint itself. Or something like that. But I could be off on that. That's probably an oversimplified explanation.

A solution...
Meguires makes an all-in-one wax called "white wax" that might be good for your truck in its current state. It's formulated with a fair amount of cleaning abrasives to clear the oxidation (more than your typical cleaner wax) and it also has polishing oils in it to hydrate the paint once oxidation is removed. It also has a wax component for protection, although I'd recommend getting something tougher over the top of the white wax as soon as you're able. Give it a week or two, then a good wash and apply some Ultimate Liquid Wax. Bet you'd have it cleaned up pretty nice.

 

After the white wax, do Two coats of ultimate liquid wax, 12-24 hours apart. There is a cure time with the ultimate. It's a 100% synthetic polymer paint sealer and it gives great results. Longevity is one of the best out there right now of the over the counter products. And it's super shiny and cost effective. Easy application and removal by hand.

But if you don't want to go the extra mile, I bet it'd simply look nice enough after the white wax.

 

I will give it a try. Thanks

 

White is single stage so your clearcoat is mixed into the paint as someone else said I understand your frustration but any 7 year old truck in a place like TX will have some amount of paint damage/aging. Totally fixable or time for a 2016

 

Correct. Another reason I shopped for white. No clear to fail. It's not used because it's not needed to make any mica 'pop' and add luster.

Solutions are simple. Clean it properly (wash, nano autoscrub or clay bar, polish) and wax it. Done.

I'm not sure what others mean when they say the clear is 'mixed in'. I had a door replaced last year (don't ask) and the shop worked with their supplier to be sure they had exactly the right paint, so there would be no 'blending' into other panels needed. Just paint the new door and hang it.

He didn't mix anything.

So if this idea is accurate, (which I'm skeptical of) it's included in the paint manuf. process, not mixed at the shop. Regardless, even it it's in there, it has no effect on the process of cleaning and protection.

 

My dad purchased a black taco, had fisheyes in the clear coat. They repainted it for him for free, had it at the body shop for over a month. Sounds like white is a much better option,

 

Its been 30 years since I painted cars professionally, and a lot has changed for sure, but I'm very skeptical about the clear being "mixed in". AFAIK the Superwhite paint is just an enamel and single stage is just what they are now calling a product that doesn't need a clear coat.

 

Kinda off topic, but can someone tell me if Black 13' paint has a clear coat or not? Not Black Sand Pearl, just regular black.

 

I can't speak with authority on Toyotas, but my understanding is all non-metallic colors (of which there are few) have clear coats.

It's easy to tell though. A bit of compound on a clean rag and polish. If you have color on the rag there is no clear coat.

 

That is my understanding, as well. Straight up red, black, white = No clear. Whether clear is "mixed in" or not, doesn't matter. That's how it was once explained to me and I've read that elsewhere. I'm sure there's more to it than "mixing it in". It's simply a different process. Long story short, the white doesn't have a clear and is prone to oxidation in time, but you should be able to clean it up real nice OP. In my opinion, that's one advantage to the single stage.

 

Claying/nanoscrub are also options, as another member pointed out. It all depends on how much time/money you want to spend. You can keep it simple and try a cleaner/polish/sealer combo like white wax and ultimate. To be honest, if it was me, that's the route I'd be going on my daily driver. Or add the clay/nanoscrub step in there and you would probably see even better results.

1 Wash
2 Clay (or nanoscrub- clay is more common)
3 Compound
4 Polish
5 Wax

Those are the five steps to be considered. The white wax is kind of a "cheater" for steps 2, 3, and 4. Just depends on how far you want to take it or how simple you'd like to make it. Most people aren't going to want to spend $75 and take the time to do all the steps. It's quite a time commitment.

To the OP, I honestly think you'd be happy with a simple cleaner and sealer treatment (white wax/ultimate). Just trying to save you some time. Not taking anything away from the other commenters- it's all great advice. I will add, claying really made my paint "pop". Super slick and shiny.

 

There are 2 kinds of painting, one is base coat then a clear coat or 2 stage the other is single stage in which the "clear" separates out after being applied. In single stage the upper levels of the paint will have pigment along with the UV protection that the paint requires. In a 2 stage paint the base coat or color coat will have no Uv protection. This protection is provided by the 2nd stage of clear coat.


A specific color has nothing to do what type of paint is used. Any color can be single stage or 2 stage. An easy was to tell what paint you have is after using a rubbing compound. If the rag you use turns the color of your paint you have single stage. No color then two stage.

In your case I would use a clay bar followed up with a quality rubbing compound to remove the oxidation and level the paint. Preferably with a machine or your arms may fall off, as it will take a lot of rubbing. Then I would follow that up with a paint sealant. A paint sealant is another word for man made waxes like a Meguires NXT 2.0. I would then follow that up with a carbana wax and reapply every 4-6 weeks. This will provide lasting protection to the sealant and thus the paint itself and it shouldn't oxidize again.

 

Thanks for clearing up the 1 vs 2 stage paint discussion. FYI, Ultimate liquid wax is now Meguires longest lasting sealant (better longevity than NXT). I've used both and Ultimate is much slicker and shinier on my pyrite mica.

Here is some info from Michael Stoops at Meguires regarding the white wax: http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?61685-The-power-of-White-Wax

 

I have tried both the Ultimate and NXT, they are both very good products and I don't think you could go wrong with either. I just found the application and removal of the NXT to be a little better.

Also on a Pyrite Mica.

 

Ever used ultimate polish or compound?

 

NXT: Ultimate: White wax:

 

I have. I noticed some streaking if applying to much product or leaving it on to long. Easily corrected but something to keep in mind. I use the ultimate for spot correction all the time.

 

I'm about to try the polish by hand. Not sure I'll see any benefit, but anxious to give it a try.

 

I have always had great results using it by hand. But that has been spot corrections. Not sure I would want to polish the entire truck by hand, arms might fall off.