CV Boot is torn

It's easy but messy.

- Buy paper towels.
- Buy the Toyota CV boot kit. Comes with everything including grease.
- Buy more paper towels.
- Truck goes up on jack stands.
- Drain the front differential.
- Pull the front wheels.
- Remove the dust cap in the center of the wheel hub.
- Remove the pin and cap that will be exposed.
- Using a 35mm socket, remove the nut at the end of the axle.
- Remove the 2 bolts that attach the spindle to the lower control arm.
- Swing the spindle out of the way. Use a dead-blow hammer to knock the end of the axle out of the hub while you're doing this and watch that you don't pull the brake lines. If it's too tight, remove the brake caliper and/or steering linkage to give you more room to work.
- Use a pry bar to pop the inner CV out of the differential. It's a hassle but this is how it's done. Don't ask if there's an easier way -- just keep at it until you pop that thing loose.
- Axle is now out of the truck.
- Remove the boot and tulip cup from the inner CV.
- Remove the retaining c-clip from the inner end of the axle.
- Use a pulley-puller to remove the tripod from the end of the axle.
- Remove the outer CV boot.
- Apply masking tape to the inner end of the axle so you don't catch the new boots on the splines.
- Grease up the outer CV as needed.
- Slide the outer CV boot over the axle from the inner end.
- Grease the outer CV, seat the boot, and apply the clamps.
- Slide the inner CV boot over the axle.
- Re-install the tripod for the inner CV.
- Re-install the retaining clip.
- Grease up the tripod and inside the CV boot.
- Grease up inside the tulip cup.
- Insert the tripod into the tulip, seat the boot, install the clamps.
- Insert the axle back into the differential. I used a pry bar on the ridges on the outside of the tulip and a dead-blow hammer to knock it back in until it locks itself in place. You'll know when it's seated properly.
- Reassemble everything in reverse order.
- Tighten the 35mm axle nut to 120ft-lbs, I believe.
- Repeat on the other side of the vehicle.
- Refill the differential. I believe it uses a T55 Torx bit.
- Grab a beer and a shower, not necessarily in that order. You're a damn mess!

 

Easiest option is to replace the whole axle. RockAuto.com sells refurbished ones for around $68 after the core return. Turns a sloppy mess into a 2-hour job including both sides and a few beer breaks.

 

You are under warranty, or are you worried the dealership will void it because of the shocks and leveling kit?

 

These trucks are easy to work on as long as you have the tools. 35mm socket is key, as is that T55 torx. The rest is basic hand tools and random cussing when trying to pry those axles out of the diff.

 

If the stick caused it then I would say it isn't a warranty item. But the suspension mods shouldn't void the warranty. It wouldn't hurt to have the stealership check it to see if they will repair it under warranty though.

 

What step got you tripped up? I just pulled the front differential out of my truck literally last night and it took less than 2 hours, including popping those axles out.