Rack & Pinion leak

So I took the taco up to Colorado this weekend and when I came back I noticed a whine when I would turn. So I checked the PS level. Just a little short on fluid. The next day I noticed a puddle of fluid under the right side of the rack/pinion. I had a 4" ProComp lift done by 4Wheel Parts in March where they also replaced my rack and pinion. Took it down to them and they said its doneski. I was wondering if anyone had any input on which direction to go besides replacing the rack? I am just baffled on how a new rack would go bad in 6-7 months.

 

Shit parts fail quickly. I'd replace it instead of trying to rehab a part that has been problematic twice already (once the first time it failed in someone else's vehicle, it presumably got rebuilt, and then failed again for you).

 

Hmm, looks like you need to do a SAS on it, lol. Easy for me to spend your money.

Seriously, I have the same issues. Began collecting all parts required for a SAS which are complete.
Waiting for Brian @ 4WU to finish the 3 link brackets and I'll drop my truck off.

This will cure the rack/ steering woes that is inherent in these trucks.

Good luck.

 

^ I throughouly thought this through as well. I agree with not continuing to replace it with a refab'd part. Thank you for backing up my thought.

@Ritchie - I would do a SAS but like you said, it is easy to spend someone else's money lol. However this is still on my long term to-do list. But if I continue to have issues it might become a short term priority. What would be some of the Cons to going the SAS route?

 

^... that depends on your style of off-road trips. For me, there are no cons at all. This topic has been discussed many times over.
My decision was based on this:
1. No electronics involved in my conversion.
2. Going back to old school days of when a 4x4 had a solid axle up front. I like proven parts.

I'm not saying IFS parts aren't proven, they are ideal in certain situations however; I have read IFS 4x4 parts break more often than SAS conversions that are built correctly. I can't vouch for that as my truck is not an OEM 4x4. Plus, it really is how you drive the truck.

Add to that, I wanted the reliability of the solid axle. I was tired of the steering issues we all go/ went through with the IFS setup.

To see them installed correctly, go to the solid axle section. AllenFab and JLee (BAMF) have killer trucks. There are many others as well... those 2 come to mind at the moment.

Hope this answered your question.

 

Appreciate the info Ritchie. This just might happen....

 

In the hole $15,000+

Pro's....prue awesomeness.

 

Jealous!!!!

What axle did you go with? Diamond? Dana44? Or??

I sure wish it was easy to just use an old toyota one, itd sure help on the cost!

 

I went with a Diamond. 62" WMS ARB locker w/ 5.29 Yukons. Brian @ FROR set it up. $5.6k shipped.
Brian @ 4WU is working on a 3 link kit for the driver side drop. $3.6k. It's complete with 14" remote resi CO's and associated goodies.
His labor to install is $2.5k.

Parts I have acquired are:
Steering box and frame bracket kit from MC: $400.00
Howe power steering pump, reservoir, in-line cooler, brackets, steering shaft & u-joints: $825.00
Yoda Master oil pan, sump & dip stick: $130.00
Inch Worm 4.7 Lefty (installed). $3k.

Into it for 12.6k at this point. Still need a front driveshaft though and I'm sure a few small things.

Going forward, I won't have any steering issues.

It's pricey but damnit, I love my truck. People tell me to sell it and buy a new one but I can't replace this one. It's solid and I don't care for the new Tacomas.

 

....as I sit here and complain about my $720 problem. ^ that is going to be one hell of an upgrade, cant wait to see it.

 

^... me either.
Spoke to Brian yesterday. Should drop off my truck within the next couple of weeks. He says it will take a week to complete.

I'll post pics in the solid axle forum once I get it back.