Are 235's right for me? PLEASE HELP

235/75/15 Goodyear Radial Wrangler's I'll recheck in the morning!

 

All the info has to be printed on the side of the tire by law, so its all there.

 

For these wheels you have to get different TPMS as the stock sensors are at an incorrect angle for the cragar's. Not cheap, paid $45 bucks per sensor at a local tire store, which is reasonable.

I did not regear. I am not in a financial position to finance regearing and certainly am not capable of buying the parts and DIYing it. Yes you lose power, but the 2.7L is already weak as hell in terms of power, so who cares.

 

Thanks man, I'll look again.

 

I've got 235/85 on an '11 4wd 4cyl without regearing and no problems with lack of power but they're a stiff tire. Unless you're crawling through some sharp ass rocks or job sites I wouldn't recommend them. You definitely take a hit in road manners, mileage and comfort.

 

Those are C rated; maybe B. Generally, C is max psi of 50; D is 65 and E is to 80. P is a different rating system; it refers to passenger tires (usually B or C rated); whereas, C, D, & E refer to load range. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=55

 

Checked this morning. It's P rated...what's that mean?

 

Its a passenger tire. Thats a common tire designation. It is optimum made for gas mileage and low cost. But will damage the easiest off road. An AT tire, for all-terrain, is preferred for trucks that do any off roading or haul loads. These tires have a relarive smooth thread for quietness but have a sturdier construction for light offroad usage. The AT tire can be C or E load rated depending on your needs. I leave out D because it is not a popular tire for some reason. If you drive your truck mostly as a car, then a passenger tire is fine. It will be more affordable and give you the best gas mileage.

 

Thanks alot for the input Chuy, I'm really new to the tires. Your response helped

 

There is another important rating - the speed rating. For insurance, liability, performance, and handling reasons, you should get a lower speed rated tire than what originally came with the vehicle.

From Tire Rack:

Beginning in 1991, the speed symbol denoting a fixed maximum speed capability of new tires must be shown only in the speed rating portion of the tire's service description, such as 225/50R16 89S. The most common tire speed rating symbols, maximum speeds and typical applications are shown below:

L 75 mph Off-Road & Light Truck Tires
M 81 mph Temporary Spare Tires
N 87 mph
P 93 mph
Q 99 mph Studless & Studdable Winter Tires
R 106 mph H.D. Light Truck Tires
S 112 mph Family Sedans & Vans
T 118 mph h Family Sedans & Vans
U 124 mph
H 130 mph Sport Sedans & Coupes
V 149 mph Sport Sedans, Coupes & Sports Cars
Z 149+
W 168 mph Exotic Sports Cars
Y 186 mph Exotic Sports Cars. in parenthesis, it's 186+, such as "(xxY)"

 

Your truck looks great. I have a white 2013 and was considering the 235s. Looks like I will do that. No clearance issues? Any lift or bone stock?

 

235 clear no problem, bigger than that requires a black box removal. I have 245/75/16s with no other changes.

 

Any noticeable power loss? Or can that acceleration loss be re-gained by an air filter? Have you noticed a big change in mpg?

 

Not a big change in power or acceleration, but my wheel and tire package in 245 is lighter than the 235s and stock steelies that I was using. Mpg is still aroud 25 or 26 average, got 29 driving back from Colorado yesterday over the 550 miles. Did one tank, buy set cruise to 65 or so. I think the only thing I noticed was a little change in the steering, but not much. Might change to better pads when the time comes, and still looking at finding 4.10 third one day.

 

Don't forget to compensate for the larger tires when computing mpg. Unless your odometer was off to begin with, you'll be getting better mpg than your odo currently reads. Mine is 1.05%. When my odo reads 100 miles; I actually traveled 105. Use a gps to calculate how far off your odo is.

 

Power loss is negligible. Perhaps a different air filter would help even things out, but I wouldn't screw around with different air filters. Use the OEM one, people on here are sensitive to performance changes to the point of being overly dramatic. You will have a power loss, but it's almost unnoticeable.

As I see that you are also a fellow 2013 5 lug, I will give you a bit of advice I wish I had known earlier.

First off make sure to change rims, the stock wheels are absolute garbage.

Get 235's, you wont regret it. I am bone stock height. No lift, nothing. You don't need a lift to look good in a five lug,

And finally take good care of your truck and it will take good care of you.

 

Thanks man, I'm definitely going to do tires first, I drive on dirt roads and desert quite a bit and I desperately need some more traction. When I have some extra money buy new wheels. I actually work at Toyota so I have a buddy that will mount and balance for me, so I just have to pay cost of tires. Eventually I want to do a full build into a prerunner. (Long travel ect.)