First oil change done - 1k

Did it need it, probably not, but I like the insurance value. Oil was in pretty good shape, but I could see the faint signs of glitter in the oil when I drained my pan. I was sure to clean the drain pan very good first just to get a good read. As the oil drains straight down, it tends to splatter quite a bit - Fumoto (F-103S) drain valve is on the way; short hose into my pan with no spill in the future. The filter itself is pretty easy and nice to be able to drain most of the oil out before removing the cap. I kind of like the plastic cap as it doesn't stay as hot as the metal ones. With the right tool to install/remove the cap, and not over torquing it, I don't have any concerns about longevity. Whether I go 5k or 10k intervals in the future we'll see, but will most likely do one more at 5k and decide from there. I may opt for an oil sample after 10-15k to see how the oil is holding up. I went with the Mobil 1 0W-20 for now, but may consider their extended interval formula after 10k - if I go 10k intervals.

 

I think its a good idea to change it at 1k miles also and that is what I intend to do. Then at 5k miles and then every 5k miles after that as its easy to keep track of. I'll probably be only putting about 10k miles/year on my truck since my main mode is a motorcycle. So about 2 oil changes/year.

 

Good call, I'm doing the same to mine. I only have about 50miles on it, (got it yesterday) but I'm doing the same as you.

 

I change oil in the spring and in the fall religiously, and sometimes at the beginning of summer if I'm traveling on vacation. Crucial to change in the spring after winter time.

 

Yup if you look at your manual it probably states X amount of miles or 6 months, what ever comes first. The time frame is due to the fact the acids etc in blowby will eat at the oil additives over time.

 

I think this is a great idea. Magnets on the filter.... Anybody ever do this?

http://www.offroaders.com/cheap-tricks/hard-drive-magnets-on-your-oil-filter/

 

Not sure how that would work on a 2016 V6.

 

Wouldn't be any different than any other engine.

 

Not sure that's where I'd put it tho it is a location most oil should travel. OTOH, seems if the filter is working it should catch the shit.

I've always wondered about somehow magnetizing the drain plug. I wonder how many wear parts are magnetic in modern engines...

 

So you are supposed to clean the cartridge housing at each oil change if the magnets are even strong enough too be effective through said housing?

 

the new V6 engine has a cartridge filter in a plastic housing.

 

I would tape or zip tie the magnet to the housing and when changing out the filter take off the magnets and rise the housing in new clean oil.

Also have these.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007K...C_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=oil+filter+magnet

 

Not with hard drives mags, but with the strong, silver neo mags. I've been doing that since new.. 2 on the filter (top and side), 1 on the drain plug.

 

I'm assuming that since you continue to do it, must be worth it? You finding metal
? and do you just do this on the first 10K miles or when you don't see anything or do it on every oil change?

 

All GR and AR engines use a cartridge filter and have for years. I highly recommend the housing removal socket pictured below. The "TOY 640" will fit the housing perfectly....much better than most other wrenches. Also...remember the housing uses an O-ring to seal not a gasket....so DO NOT tighten the housing much at all. Just a light snug is all it needs. I've been doing OC's on my wife's RAV4 and Prius for years....both use cartridge filters.

 

Yes. I never cut open a filter... yet, but what I'm doing with magnets certainly won't hurt.

Because my engine's filter doesn't use a cartridge, I just stick the mags on the top and side.

 

I've had 2 VW's and both of them had magnetic drain plugs and so did a Chevy V8 I had in the 70s.

 

This works very well - you'd have to work hard to mess up the filter cap:

$30 Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench for Toyota Camry, Tundra, Tacoma, 4Runner, RAV4 and More - 64mm 14 Flute Precision CNC Machined Aluminum Oil Filter Removal Tool

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XTAGHU0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00.

Regarding filter magnets, you have to find some place magnetic it would attach to and remember it would only capture limited metals in the engine.

 

Wait magnetic drain plugs aren't normal? My old-old ranger that gave me 210k miles had one, I always thought they were normal. When it was new (to me) at 30k it came out spikey every time. When it was old it came out sandy/gritty, with way less material. I thought that was normal...? I guess I should thank the previous owner for getting / having one?

I never changed the oil on my single-old ranger myself, no idea if it had one or not.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only way any metal is going to make it's way back through the engine is through the filter. Last I checked, even the crappy filters will filter particles only 40 microns (.04 mm). If you have visible particles in your oil pan, chances are, they have already done any damage they are going to do on the way there. About the only place a magnet might come in handy is in a lawn mower.