HELP! Sheared Rear Differential stud

I noticed a slow leak coming from my rear differential so i started to investigate and it looks like i need a new gasket, BUT before ordering i decided to check the nuts around the diff for tightness.. The very first bolt/stud i checked(and area of most leakage) snapped as soon as i applied pressure.

How can i remove the sheared stud(nothing to grip with pliers or weld to)?
Where can i order a new stud from?
When i do change the gasket should i use the Toyota gasket or just go with silicone?
Will it be safe to drive until i have time and the parts to fix it?(100miles per day)

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-VD1yx61bA

or, using a screw extractor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K34RS6M11uw

You may not need a new gasket if it doesn't leak when you fix the bolt.

 

You probably going have to remove third member completely off. Once you do this the rest of the stud should be sticking out on the inside of the housing. Since it was submerged with oil, probably it will take only fingers to unscrew it.

 

Thanks, Ill probably try a combination of all of the methods in those 2 vids. Ill prob replace the gasket since ill have it all taken apart anyway.

Has anyone used this kit?
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/yota...rential-stud-eliminator-kit-140056-1-kit.html

 

I think that this is what I would go for. Unless you are going to try to replace just that bolt and see if the oil leak stops. I have been thinking about this as well since I looked at my front diff and it looks like one of the bolt heads was sheared off from the factory. It isn't leaking so I am not worried about it, but if it starts once the warranty is out that is what I will do to handle it.

As far as driving it goes, as long as the leak is slow you should go get some cheap 80-90 from walmart and keep it topped off until you get around to changing the gasket. If it is leaking fast enough to drain the diff on your long drive I would not drive it until it is fixed.

 

If you are going to try to fix it without pulling the third member, see if you can get a "Reverse Drill Bit" Make sure you center punch the broken stud and then use the reverse drill bit. If the stud is loose it might come out just from drilling the pilot hole (just don't drill all the way through the stud). It the drill bit doesn't back it out then try the extractor. If you are pulling the third then simply try some vice grips on the piece that is hopefully sticking out of the axle housing after you remove the 3rd. Also, a bit of grease on the bit and around the stud hole will help catch the metal shavings as you drill.

 

Thanks for the replyies, I'm going to take the 3rd member off this weekend and replace all the studs(except the 2 by the locker) with class 10.9 button bolts. Ive seen a few ppl do this on other forms and it seems to work really well and hopefully I'll never have this problem again!

 

What size studs did you buy one of mine broke too? 8mm or 10mm?

 

The torque for those nuts is only 18 ft/lbs if i remember right.

Helpful tip: wet the new gasket with water before you try to fit it over the studs. It will seem a tiny bit too small and will tear if you don't. It's just a thin paper gasket and getting it wet will help it stretch enough to fit around all the studs.

 

10 mil, probably