Fitting 33s on 3rd gen

So the project has begun.

I initially ran into problems with my previous wheels clearing the caliper because the wheel wells were tapered. Fortunately I found 16x8 wheels with 3.625" of back spacing that fit. These fit although that caliper is huge nonetheless and there is like 2-3mm of clearance between the front side of the caliper and the hub mount portion of the wheel. The tacoma was sitting for a while so everything was cold, I wondered if the calipers might expand due to heat and hit the inside of the wheel if they were to get hot enough.

I did some math using coeffecient of generic steel(no idea what kind of steel the calipers are made out of) and if the calipers reach 1000F they will only expend ~0.6mm so I'm safe in that regard and would have other things to worry about if the brakes got that hot.

With these specific wheels the stock wheel studs are too short. I was getting about 6 turns on the lug nuts before they'd max out. Tomorrow my 55mm studs will come so hopefully we can get these on there.

So some of you are probably wonder, did they rub? On the street I think rubbing will be minimal but I'll have to do a lift before I take the taco wheeling. During max turns the front would rub a little bit against the lip of the bumper, or whatever that this is that hangs down, but cutting this would be easy and unnoticeable. The back side is the main issue. It was rubbing against the body mount. I am not familiar with tacomas, this is my first so I'm not sure if the design of the 2nd gen was the same, but judging from the way it rubbed I dont think 3" of lift would resolve it. I could be wrong, but maybe someone can chime in?




I'm thinking about cutting the mount a bit and welding in a plate to reinforce it so that the edge will go from a right angle to something like this \ . I think this with a moderate lift will fix any problems with rubbing against the mount.

Here is a bonus pic of what 33s look like. I fell in love, so I'm going to do whatever it takes to run these without rubbing. Also if anyone has any tips or useful info please share.




Edit: It was suggested that I'd add some specs so heres the info:
Vehicle:

2016 Tacoma SR 4x4, i4 5 spd manual​

Wheels:

American Eagle 102 series //pt#1029-7866
Size :16x8 // Offset: -20 mm // Backspacing: 3.63"​

Tires:

BFG KO 285/75 // Actual diameter: 32.5"​

Lift Measurements, from the ground to the top of the wheel well measured at the center of the axle:
Pre-lift:

Front: 36.5"
Rear: 38"
​

After Lift:

Front: 38.5"
Rear: 38.5"​

Notes:

1. Rubs a lot on bumper lip
2. At full lock the corners of the tread rub on the body mount
3. With bumper lip removed it still rubs a little, although it rubs less. Now it rubs in the front where the bumper and wheel well lining come together.
4. After lift all rubbing has gone away on the road. Took some hard turns and still no rub. Off-road has not been tested.
   
5. Bilstein 5100s were set to position 3 with stock coils and I got 2" of lift.

 

This thread is too smart for me.

 

Fixed.

 

So we got everything together tonight. Shit installing the studs was a pain in the ball sack. We may or may not have broken a snap on impact wrench during this process, we'll find out tomorrow when my friend and I examine it. I was using my friends shop so I used a lot of his tools, with his permission of course. But I kind of wished I had used my husky impacts instead, because I would not have cared if those broke. Hopefully at the most we can throw some parts at the snap on impact and get it fixed versus having to buy him one. It simply took a lot of impacting to get those studs to seat, I cannot emphasize this. It was crazy. We used those beveled stud seaters that you put under the lug and you tighten to seat the studs and they pretty much got chewed up and were mushrooming. I bought the

$25 dorman 610463 dorman 610-463 rear M12-1.50 serrated wheel stud - 14.20mm knurl, 55mm length compatible with select pontiac / toyota models, 10 pack

dorman 610463 and this is the item people recommend for longer studs for the tacoma, but I'm wondering if perhaps the specs were slightly off?

It does rub on full lock, but fortunately i dont have to go full lock very often. Making left and right turns at 4 way intersections doesn't rub, I pretty much only get rubbing during parking.

Time to order some bilstein 5100s and see if it will still rub with a little bit of lift. Otherwise I'll have to get the angle grinder out and refill my welding cylinder.

Surprisingly with the stock gearing, running 33s is nor bad. I had imagined that after putting the bigger tires I would 100% have to regear, when in reality the acceleration is still pretty good. I noticed more of a change in braking than power. If they make shorter t-case gears for the R155F I may go that route, as it will still increase my crawl ratio for wheeling and it will be a lot easier to setup than 2 axles.

 

How wide are your 33's?

12.5?

 

Theyre 285/75/16

 

Oh..well damn. Some people have posted up clearing 285/70/17s no problem after a lift. The backspacing of those 16s is lower than most however.

Sub'd for post lift results. People's claims on what rubs/doesn't rub has been inconsistent at best for the 3rd gen so far.

 

I'm thinking a small lift will help with street issues but I'm thinking cutting the cab mount will be necessary regardless if this thing is to see any off road.

 

It'd be really useful for all the folks who are posting these 33s-on-3rd-gens threads to consolidate the pertinent measurements and specs, so that comparisons can be done objectively.

Off the top of my head, useful info would be:

Tire manufacturer and model
Tire size on sidewall
Manufacturer's reported overall diameter (a 285/75-16 will have a different measurement between manufacturers/models)
New or used tires
If used, tread depth of current tires (and include manufacture's tread depth spec when new, so that readers have some sense of how much rubber is gone)
Wheel manufacturer and model
Wheel specs of width and offset and backspacing (some will post offset, some will post backspacing, and many don't know how to compare that information)
For these 3rd gen threads, it's expected that there have been no suspension mods, etc. If there are, list as much detail as possible, down to manufacturer and part numbers.
Have wheel spacers been added? If you can do the math, what effect does this have to the wheel specs (so if someone wants to shop new wheels versus running stock wheels with spacers, then they can use this information when shopping)

Anything else?

 

Subbed for future info about rubbing after lifting.

 

Alright, results are in. I set the bilsteins to position 3 and I got 2" of lift. Most importantly all rubbing has disappeared. JDM suggested I'd add some useful info so I edited the original post and added info that hopefully others will find useful.

No offroad yet so I can't speak for how it will rub on the trails. Too many variables with that. I dont think I'll rub offroad since I do relatively easy stuff but I'm sure if you do something with some real rocks that will cause one side to compress a lot then you'll rub.

On the road, no rubbing what so ever even at full lock. I tried to take some hard turns to get one side to sag to see if it will rub and still no rub. I don't think I got the suspension to sag that much as it is very firm and handles pretty well. I didn't want to flip the truck going too fast so 30MPH is the fastest I went on sharp hard turns.

If anyone has any questions let me know.

 

did you get an alignment done yet with the bilsteins set at 1.75? if so status of that? what about lift in the rear? kept it stock?

 

Kept it stock, although I'll get bilstein shocks for the rear too soon. The lift in the front pretty much levels the truck which I like. I never put anything heavy in the back so I'm not sure if I'll lift. Although come to think about it, the spare isn't there so it might sag a little? If I do lift I'll be getting leaf packs and which one I want to get is something I havn't decided on yet.

Havn't had it aligned yet. I'll get that done on monday and I'll post the specs. Buddy was busy today, probably out drinking, and I'd rather have him do it because he'll do it for significantly less than what a shop will do.

 

Not sure what the rates are in your area or what your buddy will charge you, but I just had Toyota do mine this week for $79. May be worth looking into if that's their standard alignment price.

 

He would do it for free if I asked, my cost is some cash I throw at him as a token of appreciation or I take him out for food.

 

Alright so the numbers are in. Seems like we were able to get everything in spec, I think. Their data base didn't have the spec for the 2016 tacoma, so we used the 2015 and I hope the specs are the same. I'm going to go to a toyota dealer tomorrow to see if they can give me the specs for the 2016 tacoma.

But we got the alignment to the following specs which are within toyotas recommendations:

Left Right​

Canber: 0.8 0.6
Caster: 1.8 1.6
Toe: 0.06 0.05

 

I used a 2" front strut lift and 1" block in rear by AutoSpring and I'm running 285/75/16 Dick Cepek Fun Country's. Stock TRD off road wheels. I only rub at wheel lock.

 

Whats the backspacing on those? I'm guessing thats why you rub and I don't. I'm sure wheels with less backspacing or wheel spacers(cheaper route) would fix that.

 

Not sure of the backspacing on the TRD off road wheel. I would guess it around 5" based on the way it sets nearly flush on the outside with the lugs. My local off road shop recommended some small spacers but I told them I would just run it and see if it became an issue. No more than it happens I can live with it.

 

Here isbthe printout of my alignment afte the install. Had it done at the dealer, hope it helps.