?? on Bleeding Brake System (Brake Pads, Rotors)

While changing my brake pads and rotors, I was working on the front passenger side, when i was pressing the piston down for space for the pad, the piston on the opposite side of the caliper shot out leaking out brake fluid. I assembled the caliper back and completed the brake pad and rotor swap with out bleeding or flushing the system. Now my brakes travel to the floor board with out much stopping power.

I have a couple of question i was hoping to get feed back on. I have read many posts on TW and the rest of the internet on bleeding the brake system. but I was hoping to hear what an experienced "brake person" would think would be the best method for bleeding the system. I have read about the "gravity" method and this sounds rather simple and doable. I personally would prefer this method as getting a second set of hands for help may not be an option. But if other methods would be ideal in my situation I would like to know. Also, what is the correct order to bleed the system for our trucks?

Second question is, I explained about the piston that shot out. I reassembled it with out replacing the boot or seal with new pieces. Should this be a real issue?

Any and all answers are appreciated. Thx

 

B.T.W. my truck has over 100K miles. the rotors were practically welded to the hub. The stock rotors have 2 holes for screwing i think 12mm screw into for "popping" off the rotors. Didnt realize this till i was in the situation. Took a brake logged on to TW and came across it in a post here. Only found 1 post with this info so maybe adding it will come in handy to some one researching this info prior to starting this job.

 

Not to sure about the second part of the question, however the first part of the question is bleed from the brake farthest from the one with the leak (IE if left front was leaking, start with right rear then left rear then right front and then finally the leaky one) that way all of the all is pushed out correctly.
bleeding the brakes is rather easy. there is a nipple on the back top of the caliper. loosen it, have second person push brakes down a few times and then have them hold the brakes to the floor. when they are holding brakes to floor loosen nipple to expel brake bluid and air. after each wheel check resivor for brake fluid level. keep it topped up. as to not put MORE air into system.

the youtube vid i used.
http://youtu.be/Hf1iPbeg778

 

BRAKE FLUID (W/ VSC )

This PDF goes over the correct way to bleed the brakes for Tacoma's with VSC. I have bled brakes for years and when I changed my brake lines I could not get the damn things to bleed for the life of me. After reading this, it is a pretty easy process, you just have to do a few things differently.

 

thank you spithead051 and LieutenantFF for the speedy replys. I will watch the video LieutenantFF posted and also use the manual spithead051 posted. thank you both.

 

sorry bout the thread revival, just curious if this happened to anybody else, and did just reassembling it have any problems?

 

Soorry for bumping the thread, but why on earth do you have to turn the truck on , hear the pump, depress pedal 20+ times and repeat this process 2 - 3 times?

 

sub

 

If you are working alone, you can use a length of lumber - I use a piece of 2x6 to simulate a person pumping. Pump the pedal and lock it down with one end of the board on the brake pedal and the other up against the front of the drivers seat. You may wish to put a piece of clean towel/cloth around the end that butts up to the drivers seat.

 

Easiest way is to get a pressurized bleeder system 50 - 100 bucks and do them all at once by yourself.

 

the bleeder is on the calipers as he mentioned.. but what about vehicles that have drum brakes in the rear?

 

thanks.

remember bleeding brakes w my pops growing up, never had to do it now. figure it be handy i know how to do it.

 

How do I know if I have VSC, and how often do you guys change your fluid? I know brake fluid is hygroscopic and needs to be changed eventually, but I know everyone has their own opinions on the subject.

@Jimmyh
@DoorDing

 

I change my fluid once a year, more if I'm towing a lot. It's super cheap insurance and it's very easy to do, then again I bleed my racecar every weekend at the track so I can do this in my sleep. It's a nice way to check up on the overall health of one's brakes as I inspect my pads at the same time and give each wheel well an inspection.

 

/\ This, max life of brake fluid is around 5 years but 2 years is best especially when you live in humid climate.
Brake fluid sucks moisture that turns into water in brake lines rusting them on the inside.
Change brake fluid to avoid problems..

 

Yep... I think the worst is replacing brake lines when they rust. I had to do this on my Ford and it was absolute pain in the Ass. They sell tubes as straight and you have to bend your shape, I thought I am going to go crazy..

 

I have bled brakes by myself by opening the bleeder and put a piece of vacuum tubing on it with the other end sitting in a jar of brake fluid.

 

I read over the procedure for VSC vehicles, besides how you pump the pedal, is there any difference? It seems so similar I feel like I missed something...

 

With a pressure system like the Motive bleeder do I need to turn the key to the on position at all? It looks like the only real difference between vsc/ no vsc is bleeding the booster like they explain, which seems to be just pumping the brake pedal a bunch basically?

 

I second that question.....I'm also wondering if you're supposed to have the key in the ON/ACC position when pumping the brakes to bleed them, or do everything with the key OFF and/or removed from the ignition. Thanks.