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2011 Tacoma 4wd with 9500 miles. No start, no crank.

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by drdon, Oct 23, 2015.

  1. Oct 23, 2015 at 1:40 PM
    #1
    drdon

    drdon [OP] New Member

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    2011 Toyota Tacoma V6 4WD with stock anti-theft system
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    Symptoms: When I turn the ignition, it won't start and will not crank. Dash lights come on. I cannot detect a click when I turn the ignition, which I presume would come from the starter solenoid.

    Recent History: The OEM battery died on my 4 year old Tacoma. I jump started it a few times, but it wouldn't hold a charge overnight. Tried an overnight 6 amp trickle charge. Zip. Called out AAA and they said the cranking amps were down from 710 to 70. DOA. So, went down and bought a new 27F battery, installed it, and turned the key. Zip. Same symptoms. No crank, no start. No keyless entry, no power windows, no radio. Turned on headlights after installing new battery. OK. Overhead cab lights OK.

    Is this a starter solenoid problem? Or possibly anti-theft system malfunction?
     
  2. Oct 23, 2015 at 1:43 PM
    #2
    smd3

    smd3 Well-Known Member

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    Have you checked all the fuses?
     
  3. Oct 23, 2015 at 1:46 PM
    #3
    ElderP

    ElderP Well-Known Member

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    Vehicle:
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    Installed Cooper At/3's (265/70R16) and ProComp 7089 Rims. Tinted front windows. Did the Fog Light Anytime mod. Did the tailgate mod. Added running boards. Adding sound Deadening from RAAMaudio. Replacing stock speakers with Polk Audio DB6501's.
    In both the engine and cab
     
  4. Oct 23, 2015 at 1:49 PM
    #4
    drdon

    drdon [OP] New Member

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    No not all. I checked the interior IGN and the engine battery fuses. Appear OK. Are there other relevant ones
    that would produce this set of symptoms?
     
  5. Oct 23, 2015 at 1:53 PM
    #5
    smd3

    smd3 Well-Known Member

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    Once I verified the fuses are good, I'd check for constant hot at the starter and switched hot at the solenoid when attempting to crank.

    If you don't get constant hot at the starter, there's likely a blown fusible link or bad cable.

    If the switched hot doesn't have power when trying to crank it means the solenoid isn't getting power.

    If the solenoid isn't getting charged I'd move on to checking the starter relay.
     
  6. Oct 23, 2015 at 1:55 PM
    #6
    drdon

    drdon [OP] New Member

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    One more thing. On the last attempted jump start, it wouldn't crank AND the horn came on continuously and would not shut off until the pulled the cables. Wierd
     
  7. Oct 23, 2015 at 4:21 PM
    #7
    zeekevin

    zeekevin Well-Known Member

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    Press the unlock button on your key fob you might have a dealer installed alarm that has starter kill
     
  8. Oct 24, 2015 at 3:36 PM
    #8
    smd3

    smd3 Well-Known Member

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    I forgot about those, they seem to give people trouble.
     
  9. Oct 26, 2015 at 9:53 AM
    #9
    drdon

    drdon [OP] New Member

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    Progress! Turned out my main 140 amp fuse was blown, most likely during an attempted jump start. Once I shorted it, it started right up. Wowie zowie.
    Now, however, I am faced with removing the bolted in fuse which is not accessible unless I remove the adjacent wire harness and plastic housing that is anchored
    by 4 plastic tabs. My question is: How do I release the tabs.... by pressing or pushing and in which direction? it's hard to see. And, can I release one at a time or
    do I need to do one pair on one side and then the other? Bottom line is: What is the easiest way to gain access to the two bolts that anchor the fuse??
     

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