Help wiring Gauge(power supply)

Don't know how to read one. I thought this job was simple positive - negative. If it requires multimeter's then its too hard for me.

 

Pretty much all of the major auto parts outlets carry them. Otherwise they are available on Amazon and ebay too.

 

Picture just because I got finished with all this and I think it'll blow ops mind. All lower lamps setup to dim with dash lights and upper lamps on when accessories are on.

 

All right then I like the idea of having many different options for the ends of the test leads .

I don`t think I have used a test light for 20 years.

 

The rheostat is to the left of the instrument cluster, you use it to dim the dash lights.

 

The directions for my AFR said NOT to hook it to the rheostat or it will make the guage light flicker

 

OK then don't.

You could use the 12 VDC source from an add a fuse IG1 Circuit and install a separate rheostat to control the brightness...

 

Great idea. Didn't even think of that location. I guess since my gauge is a Flex Pod and the wires come right down below my steering wheel I was thinking it would be easy and nice and neat to go to the kick panel. But obviously not(for me at least). So great idea on the easy location. I also don't want to have to rip my dash apart for something that requires only two wires!!!

Yes you blew my mind!!!!! Come hook up mine will ya....haha

Would love to use a Multimeter rather than my obsolete test light method. But I thought it was simple positive/negative wire type hook up. A test light should be good enough. But I guess not. Don't know if reading would teach me how to use a multimeter? But I'll look into it. I have one. But don't know how to use it. Haven't had to hook up anything electrical in years. back in the day it was easy. I was actually good at it. But I guess the new cars setups have passed me by.

What does that mean??? Do I have to connect different then? Does "variable ground" mean I don't connect wires the traditional way? This is basically what I'm asking in my post. Am I doing this wrong. Is there a new way this gauge gets spliced in from what I'm used to? etc?


And thanks all of you for helping idiot me.

 

Test light isn't obsolete, it still has its place, I've got one. Get yourself a multimeter, you don't have to have a high dollar one. Read a few things about voltage and ohms and amperage and you'll be fine.


The variable ground makes the negative side more or less negative via the rheostat. Again you can handle this.

 

Nice Sandman!!!!! Exactly what I was looking for. Can I bother you for one more thing? Where is that plug located? is that the actual plug that goes into our fog lights or is that behind the dash somewhere?

 

If you pop out any of the switch blanks you can find an empty plug behind them. All of them should have the illumination wires. The same wires can be found behind the a/c panel, though you have to use something like a scotch lock to tap into the wire.

 

*note: For the switches to dim correctly you have to use both the illumination Ground and positive.

 

Switch Blanks!!!! Wow. Nice and easy and I didn't think of that. Guess I should of checked there before crying to you guys like this. Thanks a million(and I forgot to thank you last post also.)

Good man and you all saved me.

Ok, so that's one of the differences I guess??? I would not of done that. Thanks again !!

 

That's why we're here for!

Find those wires and test with your test light, with both illumination wires, and then with just the illumination positive to solid ground, and the illumination to solid power. You'll understand what's going on better.

 

Here's the dimmer schematics.





And here's how I wired my switches to work with the stock illumination circuit.

 

"The variable ground makes the negative side more or less negative via the rheostat"


Right there is what I needed Sandman. Now I think I get it. Trying tonight. I understood from all the other replies but reading back I noticed this and now I really understand. Even if I don't have it 100% figured out, that one sentence gave me the info I need to play with it and get it working Thanks again. Hopefully I'll be posting "done" to end this tonight.

Here is how I think I need to hook up.

 

Done!!!! (but not really)

I can't get the needle to dim. I hooked up every possible way. Maybe it can't? I got the gauge dimming perfect. And all the wire ran perfect.


P.S. The mini add a fuse work great. Not a problem at all. I ordered a mico from Amazon but the mini I used was easy and fit perfect.


So I'm thinking it's the gauge and I CAN'T make the needle dim????? If not I can live with it this way. It's much better now. But figured I'd ask. Maybe I need to buy another inverter??

 

Don't know if we have the same stores where your from but last night I went to AutoZone and they had the micro-mini add a fuse. I ordered one from ?Amazon but picked it up last night to finish up the job. I actually like the regular mini one better. it fits better and goes over the other fuses nice. Only bad part is filling it with a different type fuse rather than out standard ones. But AutoZone has both kinds on the shelf!!!! Or at least mine did here in Auburn, MA



I'm calling Speedhut today on my wiring. I want to see if it's even possible to hook up their gauge they way I want before I go crazy trying again. If not I don't mind not being able to dim the needle. I never dim anyways.

 

Here is the brand and box it comes in so you can tell them they should have(if you have a AZ in your area)

 

Sweet yea I actually found than at an autozone her in Denver yesterday. Dood u think I could run 2 gauges off of one fuse?