Official Tennessee Thread

Lincoln locker is the cheapest locker

 

I've got four power door lockers? Can even control it with my key fob.

 

Nope. Doesn't work. That's a door lock. Not a door locker. Try again

 

Wish harder. It's a rule now soooooooooooo

 

It takes more skill to ride without one....that's all I'm saying haha

 

Okay this could be a shot in the dark, but doing some trail riding over the weekend I heard a light clank in my front end, seemed like the passenger side. It happend repetitively over nearly every small rock on the trail, which was the whole time. I don't notice it on the street. Does it sound like a LCA bushing or maybe a wheel bearing??

 

Fixed it for you...

 

I agree with this. Haha

 

I've got at least 15 mins of video that shows this no-locker having, reverse and try again carnage. @Skootter14 , we don't look very badass. I may not upload it lol

 

Lol

 

Your tires holding air?

 

Yeah, no issues so far. Will still get them broke down and cleaned before too long. Alignment isn't bad either. Any info on those inner tube style bead locks? Need to research that if you can recommend a place to start.

 

Haha o well. At least we "try" to keep,up with the best of 'em. Reverse or not, we still make it happen

Thanks Dave haha

 

Staun beadlock, and you can find them all over, I'd suggest researching and reading about them before you pull the gun

 

I like to think of it as you keeping things lively.

 

A wheel bearing goin out does not make a clank noise. It will make a humming noise and you can check for this very easily. While driving swerve left to right. If you hear the noise only while turning left then it's the right bearing and vica-versa. It could be lca bushings. It could be a few things. You have ucas? And coilovers?

 

When lifting 4x4, how do you know whether a dif drop is needed?

When installing longer brake lines, anything special about the TRD OR brakes? Just same normal bleed steps?

 

If I am not mistaken 2nd gens do not need the diff drop.

 

Need is a relative term. I ran a diff drop for 6 years with no problems. Some people will swear by "you're an idiot, it will fuck your truck up". This isn't the first time I've done something someone said that to and came out just fine. I did however take it off over a year ago and some irony arose in my doing so, which I'll explain in a min.


Theres one thing a diff drop does: rotates the front of the diff downwards to help compensate the high axle shaft angles when lifting your truck. Amazingly it does just that, which in turn does 1 thing very well: keeps your axle boots from wearing prematurely. Because of where the spacers are used (placed between the front cross member and front diff mounting brackets) it lowers the brackets down probably 1" - 1 1/2". This is the reason I took them off last year. I was going to build a higher clearance skid and bumper but have yet to get to it. The skid I have now contacted the diff mounting brackets with the spacers in but not with them removed. Consequently this resulted in my axle boots wearing out very fast and leaking grease out. Now take that view with a grain of salt as those boots now have almost 8 years on them of being covered in mud, sand and gravel BUT ....... when I took the spacers out I quickly saw a new wear pattern on the boots where the fins touch and that's where the rip came from.

So from my experience of running one for 6 years, and not just cruising the mall parking lots at 8:55 pm on Friday night, I've learned that in no way shape or form did the drop hurt my truck or cause any acute or chronic damage to it. If anything it helped my truck by keeping my axle boots from wearing holes in them. The one "bad" thing it did was lower the front mounting brackets to where if I want to build a skid for the most clearance possible then it's in my way.

 

Yeah Im gonna have to get under the truck this weekend. Yeah I have LR UCAs and OME 885s with top plates (getting 886x soon).