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What is best to Prevent Rust?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by jk70, Oct 31, 2015.

  1. Oct 31, 2015 at 6:56 AM
    #1
    jk70

    jk70 [OP] My Mid-Life Crisis

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    I'm not talking about doing a whole underbody type of thing. One thing I've noticed on older tacoma's is the rusted bolts in the cargo bed that hold the liner down. Should I spray items like that with Wd-40 (or something else) or is this overkill?
     
  2. Oct 31, 2015 at 7:05 AM
    #2
    skiergd011013

    skiergd011013 Well-Known Member

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    can't hurt. I just sprayed a little WD on my gas tank door hinge. Have seen on here that people have trouble with that rusting, and then rubbing paint. Now it opens really smoothly. Caring for little things like this goes a long way.
     
  3. Oct 31, 2015 at 7:12 AM
    #3
    jk70

    jk70 [OP] My Mid-Life Crisis

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    Thanks John. That's what I guessed but you folks are the experts. Love the advice I get on here
     
  4. Oct 31, 2015 at 7:18 AM
    #4
    patbegley

    patbegley Well-Known Member

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    Fluid film, rust cure formula 3000 etc.

    I had the whole underside sprayed as well as the insides of doors and panels with Krown. About $150 a year.

    But I'm convinced the majority has been sprayed off from the car wash.

    I also went around with a can of FF doing all the hinges, locks, whatever else.
     
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  5. Oct 31, 2015 at 7:20 AM
    #5
    Dagosa

    Dagosa Well-Known Member

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    I guess you are talking about underneath. If you are, paint wheel bearing grease on which is very durable. If it's an area you may come into contact with, a wax based spray. We have discussed this before and IMHO, grease and oil base products are the most durable but are restricted to areas you don't bump into. Wax based products like FF are good to use in areas that aren't subject to heavy spray and areas you may touch. Bottom line. No singe approach works and you use a combination of products. There is no one size fits all. This stuff is all cheap and the labor of one hour a year is free.

    By the way. When subjected to road salt spray, wd40 might last a day or two. Heavy grease spread on with a foam brush to thickness you want works. In car wheel bearings this stuff holds up pretty well to abuse and water.

    Heck, in areas that don't get directl spray, vasoline lasts a year plus. You don't need to spend money on expensive stuff.
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2015
  6. Oct 31, 2015 at 7:22 AM
    #6
    skiergd011013

    skiergd011013 Well-Known Member

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    i wish we had one of those in my area.......
     
  7. Oct 31, 2015 at 7:22 AM
    #7
    Yoda's TRD

    Yoda's TRD Well-Known Member

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  8. Oct 31, 2015 at 7:24 AM
    #8
    jwctaco

    jwctaco Retired, going slow in the fast lane

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    rust never sleeps!!! i do everything i can,had it rustproofed, fluid flim, bosheild instead of wd. i live in mi. ,the salt st. i HATE RUST,
     
  9. Oct 31, 2015 at 7:39 AM
    #9
    jk70

    jk70 [OP] My Mid-Life Crisis

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    Fortunately, I live in North Carolina so salt is not a problem. Moved here from Boston so, with respect to cars, it is very nice. Although, I will think about a whole underbody, etc. I was just thinking of small areas like those bolts that I can just do when I am a bit bored and have an itch to do something to the truc.

    Currently, I only have Wd40 in my garage and I understand that it may not be the best but I assume it will be okay for now. I don't know why I always noticed those bed bolts rusted in old pics but it bothered me and I want to make sure that 10 years down the road there is no rust there (and other areas). I like to sell my cars at the highest price I can get so things I can do now are important to me.

    I bought a 1996 Honda accord in 1998 for 11k. I sold that car in 2013 for 4k....I take care of my cars but the most help I got from that sale was that it was a Honda, great resale value. It also helped that I made the car sparkle before I posted it on car sites. It was amazing some of the pics of other cars. Trash in the back, one had a mountain dew bottle on the hood when the guy took a pic (I guess he was too lazy to remove the bottle o_O). Half the battle, to me, is making the car look new. Wow, I am off on a tangent.
     
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  10. Oct 31, 2015 at 8:00 AM
    #10
    Dagosa

    Dagosa Well-Known Member

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    You can do it yourself.
     
  11. Oct 31, 2015 at 8:02 AM
    #11
    Dagosa

    Dagosa Well-Known Member

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    Vasol
    Vasoline or grease works best.....exactly what I do with bolts underneath cars...the best way to deal with them. Heck, painting Wesson oil on a bolt is better then wd40.
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2015
  12. Oct 31, 2015 at 8:29 AM
    #12
    jk70

    jk70 [OP] My Mid-Life Crisis

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    Good to know. I've got plenty of vasoline :eek:. Grease - is white lithium grease ok? I have that
     
  13. Oct 31, 2015 at 10:08 AM
    #13
    Dagosa

    Dagosa Well-Known Member

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    Any grease is fine but that's not quite as good as wheel bearing . A small tube of red grease WB grease goes on clear. I would just wait till you get to a Store. Put anything on temporarily, even vasoline but I'm lazy and want it to last. But, vasoline was used on oil rigs at sea for just this purpose...a lubricant/rust preventor.
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2015
  14. Nov 2, 2015 at 6:30 AM
    #14
    mtsrunner

    mtsrunner Well-Known Member

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    I got my 2016 last week. I am going to have it lifted this week. The guy who is doing my lift said that I could do my undercarriage treatment at the shop while he is doing the lift. My plan is to paint on synthetic wheel bearing grease on everything while the truck is on the lift. I even plan on coating every surface of each leaf spring while I'm at it. Is this a good idea, or is there a better way to go?
    Is there a preferred brand of WB grease?
    Thanks.
     
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  15. Nov 2, 2015 at 6:40 AM
    #15
    skiergd011013

    skiergd011013 Well-Known Member

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  16. Nov 2, 2015 at 8:55 AM
    #16
    Dagosa

    Dagosa Well-Known Member

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    No, the cheaper is fine for this purpose. It can't be sold as wheel bearing grease if it dos not have the right properties. Any auto parts store..even Walmart. Look for "red grease". It goes on clear and allows you to inspect the following year. Synthetic is more biodegradable but regardless.....any should work well. I use wide foam paint brushes. It goes on easy and fast. Personally, I paint areas I can reach with grease then spray Over areas I cannot with biodegradable motor oil. A garden sprayer works well. Again, motor oil is designed to adhere under very extreme conditons. Water runs, so you need a rust proffer that "runs" as well. Drip prove material does not run. It is fine for exterior surfaces, but you have to depend upon material to run and follow the course of the salt water and moisture that "causes " rust.
     
  17. Nov 2, 2015 at 8:59 AM
    #17
    DrFunker

    DrFunker Well-Known Member

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