TORSPD: NEVR

I can take another this weekend. If it isn't to rainy.

 

I may have a bottle or two left from 2012 if you want to try an "aged" pumpkinator.

 

ZOMG!!!!!

 

and root beer!

 

Still need to take that picture. Completely forgot about it until just now.

In the mean time of waiting for Goldylocks, Lucario Runner and I have commenced taking the head off of Jeff's engine. This is no small task. Between discrepancies in the instructions, misinformation on forums, and the overwhelming regularity of people stripping out the thread of the block while removing the head bolts, it has been a small battle every step of the way.

A Toyota employee recently told Lucario Runner that we need to buy lotter tickets. Since we were able to remove the head bolts without taking the threads with them.

 

2AZ-FE head removal. In all of its ingloriousness.....



Decided to take a "short cut" and not pull the timing cover. No way I was doing that if I could get around it. Point is, if you @HomerTaco or @Moose1988 ever have to deal with a head gasket issue, then these are some of the things you'll encounter.

After setting up timing this is what we did.
Had to loosen the exhaust cam gear bolt and thread it out a bit. Then in sequence, loosen the cam bearing caps. Once those were done we slid the cam gear off of the cam and onto the loosened bolt. While also holding tension on the timing chain. Then carefully tilted the cam while unthreading the bolt the rest of the way, making sure to keep tension on the chain and not dropping the cam gear.



While holding the chain tight the other person lifted the intake cam gear out. We then tied off the chain so that it didn't loose its place on the crank gear.

 

This is a very tedious project with a lot of hardware in very difficult locations.

Front engine mount and passenger engine mount were both removed. To be able to get jack the engine front to back so that we could access the intake manifold.

There are three bolts and two studs which go through the timing cover into the head. The two studs are an E5 external torx socket. They must be removed if you want to pull the head without removing the cover. The cam sensor must also be pulled from the back side of the engine. As it blocks a head bolt.

Here is the good news. The head bolts are over torqued from the factory. If you go onto Amazon and look for a head gasket kit for this engine, the "Frequently Bought Together" item is a Timesert kit. Since it is nearly impossible to remove the head bolts without pulling out the threads. A kit is made to effectively helicoil repair the holes.

I had no desire to have to repair those threads, much less buy that kit at roughly $450.

My method to try to circumvent this problem was to do a multi-step de-torquing process. With a 12mm triple square for the head bolts, loosened each bolt slowly until it "popped". In sequence. It took roughly 15 times of de-torquing each bolt in sequence, until they were all loose and could be removed by finger. It payed off though.



Nothing on the threads of the bolts and all look perfect in the block. Doesn't mean I'm in the clear yet though, as I still have to reassemble. So far so good though.

After they were all out, we lifted the head a little and slightly rotated it towards the firewall. To be able to reach the exhaust chain tensioner bolt which attached it to the head.

Then we were able to pull the head off.

 

Man I'm doing this in the next few weeks let's hope it is easier on my truck

 

Being that yours isn't transversely mounted, it will be much much easier. Plus, you have more room to work in your engine bay. We've been fighting with the passenger fender well this whole time.

 

With the head off, it was easy to see where the gasket had failed.








Right between the center two cylinders.

The deck of the block is perfectly fine. Still need to verify with head.

 

Next step is to do a back yard approach to see if the head is still straight. A straight piece of metal and a flashlight.

 

Precisely straight

 

Haha no way. That is where I drop it off at the machine shop and tell the grouchy machinist to do his magic.

 

http://www.autobarn.net/xxxw-cen6429.html

Not cheap.

 

Thats really all there is to check and pretty standard. Granted not with a flashlight but making sure feeler guages cant fit. But same purpose

 

I brought a Starrett straight edge home from work.

http://www.starrett.com/metrology/p...n-Hand-Tools/Precision-Measuring-Tools/380-36

Should do the trick.

 

Getting fat on all this

 

Have been casually checking craigslist for an extra 1GR, if I happen upon one on the cheap, might just pick it up and start tearing it down just to learn how and then start getting the internals beefed up. Hmmmm. Theres a totalled 2008 on CL, wonder how much they'd want at that junkyard.

 

Hmmm....the only specialty tool you'll need is the sock for the head bolts. I can post the picture / p.n. of munecif you like?

Great learning experience and best because you wouldn't be in a rush.

Guy on XRU selling his forged rods for $400, right now.

Sometimes I wish I would have bought a set of those. Would have gotten one heck of a good discount...