Tire Balance Issues, Need some help

I am currently running American Racing AR-23 series. These are the same model wheel that I was running with my Cooper M/T. Yes these wheels are brand new, they were replaced under warranty due to finish defects (clear coat was bubbling and flacking which was causing the aluminum to oxidize). Im am running BFGoodrich A/T and looking at some reviews I wish I wouldn't have bought them.... Im seeing alot of people complaining of the tires detreading and blowing out on the highway, but o well. I did some research and these wheels are lug centric (hub bore is 108mm). So yesterday I bought a set of gorilla hub centric rings of the correct size.

I haven't had the rims tested for out-of-roundness. Iv had the wheel and tire assembly road forced and all 4 checkout ok... However they road forced them from the hub bore, not the lugnut holes. From what Iv heard Toyota actually road forces from the lug holes and not the hub bore, so Iv been told.

I had the rear in the air yesterday and put the tranny in 5th, let clutch out and let the tires spin at idle (25mph). And couldn't notice anything.

 

hmm, the wheels being lug-centric (108 is Chevy/GM I believe?) may be something. let us know how the hub rings work! it may be unnoticeable by the naked eye but spinning at >600 revs per mile may introduce the slight offset

 

Yeah if they arent hubcentric (106.1 is our trucks) id bet that is most of the problem if not all. I could have sworn you told us they were hubcentric wheels weeks ago when i asked and mentioned getting some rings if they werent...

And yes frizzman the 108 bore is GM....

 

You are right sir. I did say they were hubcentric. Reason i though was that the center cap that covers the hole in the center of the wheel snugs up tight over the lip protruding from the hub. I was thinking this was considered the hubcentric ring to align the wheel properly on the hub. However with the lug nuts off and the wheel on the truck i can still wiggle the wheel around on the hub. This confirmed to me that they cant be hubcentric... and of course seeing the actual bore size of the wheel

 

Ahh, cool. I sure hope the rings work out. Time to get this issue behind ya!

 

Ok so an update.... i bought the hubcentric rings and the off road dyna beads for balancing. Everything installed and the bounce is still there . Rotated them to the front and bounce is still there. I was transferred to Camp Hill this week which is about a 40min drive to and from and highway driving (60-65mph). At about 60mph the steering wheel began to shake as if the tires were out of balance. So its just not the rear that shakes at a certain speed but the front as well. I cant think of what else it is but either bad wheels and or tires... im going to check one last thing with a gopro camera. I want to check the drive shaft to make sure its not wallowing in the center support bearing. I doubt its that, iv always associated drive line vibrations as being a high frequency thing, not a tire bounce feel.

 

driveshaft wouldn't create bounce as you suspect. I wonder if it's the wheels themselves? But you've already mentioned they road-force balanced them from the hub so me thinks that rules them out too

 

Do you still have stock wheels and tires to test with?

 

I know and thats what has me baffled... When I had them road forced he said they weren't perfectly round but were still in spec. However, he road forced them from the hub bore... Is it possible that the Lu nut holes aren't center with the hub bore??

 

I do actually. I have the directional wheels that I'm repainting. However I dont have any tires on them. I seriously cant see it being anything else besides a batch of (just barely in spec) tires or wheels. The steering wheel shakes as well. Would tire pressure have anything to do with it? Im currently running 26psi in the front and 25 psi in the rear

 

Air pressure can make a difference. This is one of the more complete instructions I have found on how to verify your have the proper tire pressures: http://www.4wheelparts.com/tire-wheel-package-guide/tire-pressure-checker.aspx

If I were you I would try to get a set of stock tires. Maybe even find someone local that would let you swap tires for testing, your tires on their truck, their tires on your truck... Or something like that.