Tacoma On Board Air (OBA) set up with Firestone Ride Rite Airbags

As I promised I would do a quick write-up and get some pictures of my OBA and Airbag Setup. So here we go...

**Disclaimer - I am documenting my setup for those who may want to use this as ideas for their setup, and I will in no way accept liability or damages to folks who install systems that are modeled after my setup. Each person who chooses to use this information does so at their own risk and accepts responsibility for their system, and any damages that may be caused to their vehicle or themselves by their installation methods, techniques, or parts selected.**

First of all, I will list the components I used and then I will go through a quick assessment of how the install was done, with (as usual) lots of pictures.

OBA Parts list:

1. 1 ea. Air compressor - ViAir 300P (http://www.viaircorp.com/300P.html) I will note that this is not meant to be a hard mounted air compressor, but I found a screaming deal on Craigslist for this unit, and just removed it from the mount to make it work for my application. Another option for you is the ViAir 400H: (http://www.viaircorp.com/400H.html).

2. 2 ea. US Solid 1/4" Air solenoids (Normally Closed) UPC 853996003285 CAUTION! Although I purchased these: (

$12 -New- Solenoid Valve 1/4" Normally Closed (N.C.) 12VDC Nylon (New Improved Crack-Resistant Polymer) Blue Cap by U.S. Solid

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007N0DN3Q?keywords=air solenoid&qid=1446595065&ref_=sr_1_8&sr=8-8); I would recommend you do some research and find something better. These cracked on me with very little tightening effort, and fortunately my neighbor who helped with the install had a couple aluminum bodied ones he gave me for my install. Not to say these cant be used, just be gentle when tightening them!

3. 2 ea. momentary switches - 12V 20Amp Black Round Head SPST Momentary Car Push Button Switch 2 Pcs. I ordered the following from Amazon: (

uxcell® 12V Black Round Head SPST Momentary Car Push Button Switch 2 Pcs

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HG7FIP2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00); these are going to be used for the air bag operation inflate/deflate from the air tank.

4. 1 ea. Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) rocker switch - For my application I used the following switch Parts Express Part number 66-2255: (https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-spst-automotive-round-rocker-switch-black--060-776) you don't need a high amperage switch since this will be activating the relay for the Air compressor.

5. 1 ea. 30-40A 4 Pin Relay - Similar to this one from Parts Express - Model # ER803-A-12VDC: (https://www.parts-express.com/emitter-12-vdc-4-pin-relay-spst-40a--339-099)

6. 1 roll of 25 foot trailer wiring harness - CURT Wiring 57001: (http://trailer-hitch.com/curt-wiring-57001-p-57001.html - )

7. Power and Ground wire ~25 red, and ~5 ft black - I used the normal 12 AWG from my local auto parts store wire to power the air compressor.

8. 1 ea. Air Compressor Air Pressure Switch - My neighbor gave me a spare he had, but you can use one like this from Amazon: (

2013newestseller New Heavy Duty 90 -120 PSI Pressure Control Switch Valve for Air Compressor

http://smile.amazon.com/2013newests...446596667&sr=1-1&keywords=air+pressure+switch) Mine shuts off at 105 PSI, this one is good to 120 PSI.

9. 1 ea. One way air check valve with 1/4 NPT threads. (Again my neighbor had one of these laying around and gave it to me for my setup. Use this to prevent the pressurized air from bleeding back out of the tank through the air compressor: (

$8 uxcell 1/4" PT Female Thread Full Port One Way Air Check Valve Silver Tone

http://smile.amazon.com/Female-Thre...=1446597301&sr=1-1&keywords=One+way+air+valve)

10. 1 ea. Brass Female Air Chuck with 1/4 NPT - similar to this one from Amazon: (

$10 Tru-Flate 17-373 1/4" Female NPT Grip-Tite Chuck

http://smile.amazon.com/Tru-Flate-1...id=1446597388&sr=1-7&keywords=brass+air+chuck) You can use something other than brass like the ones from Harbor Freight Tools, but since these will be exposed to the elements, the metal ones tend to rust and bind over time. HFT Brass: ( )

11. As Reqd. Misc. 1/4 NPT to nylon/copper compression fittings and brass Nipples of various types (90s /180s etc.) So you can connect all of the lines to your tank and Airbags if you decide to do airbags along with your OBA setup. Similar to: (https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-8247-brass-male-connector-14-compression-x-14-npt.aspx) I recommend you go to Lowes or Home Depot for these.. (I couldn't find them on their website.)

12. Air tank of your choice . I used 3" PVC Schedule 40 Pipe. (I know, I know.. many folks would caution against using PVC for OBA, so if you want to complain or voice your opinion of how bad PVC is, I ask that you please keep those comments to yourself and don't hijack this thread on those comments.) This is what I chose to use, as it fit the space for my setup; you can decide what you want to use for your system.

13. OPTIONAL: Firestone W217602407 Ride-Rite Kit for Toyota Tacoma 4WD - (http://smile.amazon.com/Firestone-W...9617&sr=8-1&keywords=tacoma+ride+rite+springs ) Although my Truck has a 3" Toytech Lift with the OME shocks/add-A Leafs this setup worked, but I added the Daystar Airbag Cradles listed below:

14. OPTIONAL: Daystar KU09140BK Air Bag Cradle, Polyurethane, Black , Fits All 6" DIA. Convoluted Air Bags - (

$74 Daystar, Air Bag Cradle designed for full suspension travel, Fits All 6" diameter convoluted Air Bags, fits any full size of half ton truck, 2/4WD, KU09140BK, Made in America, Black

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084ROJBM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00).

 

Well that should be a pretty good list to get you started.. I was very fortunate in that my neighbor has done several of these systems (OBA/Airbag) on his truck and other's trucks, so his knowledge and help was invaluable for this install. It made the effort go by flawlessly, and although we had a few issues with the solenoids (cracking etc.) the rest was very straightforward.

We started by measuring, cutting, and assembling the PVC tank with end caps and let them completely dry for a couple days. I'd recommend this anytime when you do anything with PVC and pressurized systems. Next we lifted the truck and pulled the rear tires and dropped the spare to make the space a bit easier to work in.

Next we mocked up the tank location and then decided where to drill for the various pressure lines and pressure switch, and attached the brass fittings, pressure switch and solenoids for the air bags. Once the tank had all the fittings in it we used the air compressor and pressurized the tank to make sure there were no leaks with some soapy water . this was probably one of the more challenging parts of the project since we cracked the solenoid bodies, and then had to dig up other parts to make it all work. So be very careful when you attach anything to the tank. Also be sure to use Teflon tape on all pressure connections.


Pressure Switch:


Complete Tank and location:

 

Once the tank was in good shape we turned our attention to the airbag installation and although it was very straight forward we took a little more time to tack weld the 4 nuts to the base (bottom) brackets, as all of the reviews I read, these nuts were the biggest PITA to deal with since you are working in such a confined space. This really helped and I recommend that you take the time to do the same if you have access to a welder. Here is a YouTube vid (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjeFJiD2Hus) on the airbag install so I won't go into it much here. The major difference in this setup vs. my setup is we plumbed the bags into a Tee, and ran the lines to the Air solenoids so I can raise and lower the bags from inside the cab, vs. with a Schrader valve at the back of the truck as indicated in the video.

Outside view of Airbag:


Inside view with nuts tack welded:


View of bag and Daystar lower bag Cups:

 

The OBA compressor install was the toughest part of the install and took the most time. I used the location as some have suggested behind the Passenger side tail light bulkhead. Locating and drilling the holes was the most challenging as you really have limited space to hold and mark the location of the holes for the compressor. I used some rubber bushings (or feet for lack of a better word) to isolate the compressor, and reduce nose with 1/4-20 hardware, and nylock nuts. Also for my setup, I pulled the air compressor rear cover off and mounted the 4 pin relay in this spot as it was the perfect protected location. The indicated black tape was to cover the hole where the power switch originally resided. At some point I might make a cover for the hole, or try to locate a switch blank to fill the hole. Not very graceful, but functional for now.

Here are a couple views looking up from the underside of the truck:

Tightening the bolts:


Completed install:


End of tank with attached solenoids:


The Airbag Tee:


Across the frame rail above the spare Tire:


Airbag Connection:

 

Finally, after securing the tank (yes those are large zip ties you saw in the first pictures); routing all of the airlines as shown in the picture to the airbags and air tank, I drilled and added the quick disconnect (air chuck) to the small Passenger side Cubby hole. I just thought this would be a good protected location for the chuck.

Air chuck location in small Cubby:

 

The wiring was ran along the driver's side frame rail, and where the frame was boxed in, I fished the wires up to the very front where the front body mount was, looped it out through the forward most frame opening, and then up the side of the truck following the wire loom location for the driver's side headlights etc. I picked up some of the corrugated Split loom from my local Ace Hardware and covered the wiring to make it look factory, and then broke out the power wires from the loom and ran those to a fuse block I added on top of the factory fuse block lid under the hood of the truck. Then continued feeding the wire loom in through the factory access boot in the driver's side kick panel location. This was then fished over to the location of where the passenger side vent accessory panel is located. I popped the panel out and drilled the switch hole for the main power switch and air bag up and down switches. This required doing some filing on the dash to make room for the switch bodies and wiring loom.

Here is the location where the wires exit the frame near the the front body mount on the drivers side:


Routing the wires from the underside near the drivers side head lamp:


Routing along drivers side wire loom behind the battery:


Further towards the driver side Bulkhead:



Into the cab:


Here's the added fuse holder, I figured I'd add this for any future power additions. I covered the panel with black duct tape to keep debris out of the other fuse locations. (note I have a 15A fuse where I really need a 5A fuse. (To be replaced soon.)


Location of the dash OBA Power and Airbag switches (sorry for some reason I could't get this one to rotate):

 

Overall the project took about a day and a half, just due to some of the issues with the solenoids we ran into, and to account for my "OCD" on the wiring and the wire routing. I think if you were to just do the OBA, and not the airbags you could do this install in a day for sure.

I have added a basic diagram of the setup in case anyone is interested:



I hope this helps someone.... Cheers!

 

Nice work, going the extra mile! Makes me happy I'm not an over achiever.

 

Thanks.. it is always good to help the folks out on here.. I have gained a lot of info from this site, and its always good to share some info to others!

 

Just a ping out to the list to make sure folks can see this post.. The new forum interface is a little clunky from the last time I posted a write-up.. not sure if folks are seeing it. let me know!

 

awesome write up!

I would recommend seperating the two bags air lines.

Having a T'd setup like that will increase body roll, as it does exactly the opposite of a sway bar. Outer bag gets compressed, air pressure must remain equalized between both bags, so inner bag extends, forcing the truck produce body roll.

 

Hmm that's an interesting point.. I haven't experienced that sort of bag behavior yet, but perhaps running both lines back to the tank may make better sense, but then you would need to double up on the solenoids at a minimum and possibly the switches for the air up or down on the bags if you wanted those separated.

Thanks for the idea!

 

Pmed

 

Nice job, if I was you I would put a baggie or something on that quick disconnect. That area on my truck always gets a lot of grit and dirt in here if that's the little box area in the bed with the plastic door.