InTheRough's Truck (Formerly PepsiManKolt)

I just got a little bit done this morning before school:

 

Just updating as I go:

 

I finished the driverside brushguard:



And received the parts to build my RFRM box:

 

Fuck yhea!

 

That came out pretty Damn good!! Nice work!

 

Thanks guys. I'm very happy with the results. It was a good start with using the tube bender too. I hope to get the other side done over the next week or so.
I really want to get the electrical done soon but there is no reason to stop one project to start another.

 

So the side that is done is right angle bends?

 

I am not exactly sure what you are asking. I think there were only two bends that would be close to a "right angle"; that being the top right and bottom right of the picture.

 

Its been wet and cold and I have been too busy to work on the brush-guards so I was playing around with the wiring a bit (even though I said I wasn't going to start another project)


What I am attempting to do is have both bus bars powered, one constant and one with the ignition. All of the grounds will run to an additional bus bar.

For example, this way allows me to run my fridge at all times but my seat warmers won't stay on unless the truck's ignition is on.



Top left will be constantly available relays.
Bottom left will be constant fused.
Bottom right will be ignition powered relays.
Top right will be ignition powered fuses.
I did it this way so that I can group the relays and fuses with their associated power (ignition or constant)


I have already ordered the Solenoid to trigger the power with the ignition:

PAC PAC-200 200 Amp Relay Battery Isolator, standard

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CEBXRS

 

I got a little work done on the box while my wife binge watched some TV.



I left the ends even and ready for connectors.


I also received my PAC-200 ($38 200amp continuous duty) and the Amazon bargain brand ($17 150amp continuous duty) solenoids. I bought the Amazon version and they shipped it before I could cancel the order.

 

Thanks, I am just taking bits of information from all of the other people that are building boxes. I am not sure how many amps you are planning on pulling but the smaller version may suit your needs.

The PAC-200 came with this wiring diagram:


But for our intended purposes I would change it just a bit:


PAC stated that it does not matter which side you hook up the battery or fuse block side to. They did not mention the ground or accessory source.

 

I am actually glad that you brought that up. I was under the impression (since I hadn't tested my draw) that Viair included 40 amp relays because they needed that protection but I just looked it up (and spoke with a rep) and they only draw 23 amps each. My relay max was 30 amp so I was about to have to wire them in with additional relays but now I can just do a single relay for each compressor in the box.

 

The compressors ("Comp1" and "Comp2") will go on the ignition side just above "Seat1" and "Seat2", just FYI.

 

I just ordered lots of Delphi 10-way GT280 connectors so that I could wire this the way that I wanted (Those things are hard to find). I also ordered one (ebay) Delphi 10-way GT150 connector for the triggers, cavity plugs, seals and 300' of wire (100' red 12awg, 100' black 12awg, and 100' 8awg). It was a little more then I wanted to spend but I am looking forward to this being a clean install. I will have plenty of extra GT280 plugs to sell if anyone is interested.

On most sites it says that the Delphi GT280 has a max rating of 25 amps but on their website it says it can handle 0-30 amps which will allow it to cover anything that the box can handle.

GT280:


GT150:

 

I just ordered some parts in preperation of the beadlock rims. The rims I ordered requires 2 valve stems per rim and I got some Silica beads rather then paying extra for the Dynabeads:

BioSpec 11079110z Zirconia/Silica Bead, 1.0 mm Diameter

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


I like the way that this video explains how they work:

 

I sorted the silica beads into 8oz containers (as dynabead suggests) so everything is ready for when I buy my tires.

I finally finished the passenger side brush guard:

 

Excellent!
Good job soda man!

 

one question on your ml-acr do you have your Brown wire connected which is your Starter Isolation wire? If you do can u show me pictures on how you have it connected.

 

Today, I found out that mounting tires on beadlocks is a pain in the ass. I tried doing it myself but I'm too light to use the "just jump on it" trick so, after calling many places, I finally got discount tire to set the first bead but left it unfinished. They are sitting in the truck waiting for me to go home and finish them.

This is from before: