Long Travel BS Thread

Wish, they are 2.5's.

3.0's and engine cage are on the plate after this season.

 

Chris's was all the way to the cab because his frame was all bent and out of line. Mine is still pretty straight except in the front due to all the frame flex.

 

Ah yes, I remember the photos from that, his was super bent lol. I'm going to try to get the entire frame gusseted/strengthened to prevent any bending.

 

@Basikbiker Traction bar is kinda difficult on long travel leaves with the driveline plunge you get. You could run a stiff pack and use the shackle/ slider to take away from the spring rate. My spring perch is almost as long as my bash plate. That will help with axle wrap. I basically did small tricks to make it more difficult to wrap the leaves. Also you might want the way I drew my slot because that will make your rear end rise to help push you forward

 

Hard prerunning for 5+ years. I've replaced the slide pad on one side once, shock heims 4-5 times and rear leaf bushings once.

 

I don't see how yours are a sliding shackle. Looks solid to me just an arch plate on the one side..

 

He just showing how he did a regular swing style shackle on a 2nd gen offset from the frame. We were talking about ground clearance earlier when crawling

 

And I was thinking the slide action would act more like a link/coilover type setup since it would probably flex less and a more linear spring growth instead of being on a swing type pivot, because doe sent shackle position in relation to the spring somewhat have an effect on the rate?

 

If you add triple bypasses to the front on a 1st gen as secondaries, do you need to revalve and respring the coilovers (I have all kings....not like that matters so much, 600# coils valved standard for LT with c/o only)

 

x2 on this. ill run bypasses after black friday and was wondering the same

 

Don't have to, you can valve the bypass light and adjust as needed.

 

To do it right, you should revalve the coilovers to complement the bypass. If you're currently running just a C/O, then in theory it should be valved pretty stiff, once you add a bypass, you want the bypass doing most of the work, so you should lighten up the valving in the c/o. But like I said, that all depends on what valving is in the c/o right now.

 

That doesn't seem right, why run multiple shocks if only one is really doing the work of dampening?

You would want to more evenly distribute the load between the two. Or you'd want more load on the bypasses because then the you would be able use all those adjustments to fine tune your ride.

Edit: @TC yota beat me to it... props to your sir.

 

I have my c/o tags around somewhere I'll see what the valving is and post it up and see what you think

 

Makes sense to evenly distribute your damping and even add a touch to the bypass. What a pia though to have to break all that down. Specially since I'm freshly installing my LT soon. Do the front triples make a huge difference in handling. Not many whoops here in CO, but lots of go fast gnarly mountain trails, and rough bumpy pavement, haha. Apologies for saying gnarly.

 

I wouldn't bother with bypasses for rough dirt roads, you can tune the c/o to handle that fine

 

Good idea... ^^^^^ I have no idea what this means.

 

X2 on that lol I'm debating double bypass or just a smoothie with click adjusters... Nothing like good l spicoli

 

this ^
when adding a secondary shock of any kind you want to change the valving in the primary shock.. always. if its a bypass, you want the bypass to do more work, considering that the bypass has the adjusting tubes.. the coil over will still have valving because you don't want one shock to work so hard it overheats and fades, you want to find the happy spot between the two. you want them to both stay cool so the dampening lasts, the last thing you want is to spend that kind of money on shocks and have them fade due to being hot.
you would start out with something simple in both shocks and go use it, then make changes from there. for example on a 2nd gen with a LT kit (depending on the users driving style, for example purposes) a generic starting point would be a 10/10 in the coil over and a 15/10 or 20/10 in the bypass to start (again depending on how hard you plan on using the vehicle. lots of variables and everyone's style and likes are different). then depending on how the truck is working and the temps of the two shocks you can add some to the coil over, even mess with a flutter. shock temperatures play a big role in valving and performance, you also want to consider that you are going to be pushing more fluid displacement now which is why I would not start with a ton of valving if you don't plan on using it like a race truck.
you wont change the coil springs, coils predicate ride height. so if it sits where you want it, then you are good.