sliders questions first timer

Can you say "swiss cheese" ??...

Nothing wrong at all with bolt ons just depends on if the fabber is on his game with laying it out , focusing on mount points on frame, & there are benefits to bolt ons over welded..

Ok, advantages of welding, probably slightly stronger connection to frame & thats about it....

Advantages of bolt ons: If you bash your slides to point of having to repair or replace, or ANYTHING that'd require removal, you'll see the benefit right away. Huge difference between unbolting & cutting/grinding for hours, mine were bolt on from vendor here (Eric from Famous Fabrications) Hands down the best set of bolt ons I've seen to date. Everything lined up, connection points on frame were solid, unfortunantly , Eric's not fabbing at the moment.

 

Just getting into wheeling now. I would rather have sliders and not need them, than need them and not have them. If you are out on the trail its worth it.

 

This is true, wish I'd gotten them before I crunched my panels..

 

Ok, advantages of welding, probably slightly stronger connection to frame & thats about it....

Advantages of bolt ons: If you bash your slides to point of having to repair or replace, or ANYTHING that'd require removal, you'll see the benefit right away. Huge difference between unbolting & cutting/grinding for hours, mine were bolt on from vendor here (Eric from Famous Fabrications) Hands down the best set of bolt ons I've seen to date. Everything lined up, connection points on frame were solid, unfortunantly , Eric's not fabbing at the moment.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the info, makes sense. Anything similar to Famous Fabrications sliders out there?

 

If you're planning on going out a lot OP start with lift, sliders and an IFS skid imo.

 

Thanks for the info, makes sense. Anything similar to Famous Fabrications sliders out there?[/QUOTE]

Bay Area Metal Fab (BAMF) makes some bolt ons.

 

Bay Area Metal Fab (BAMF) makes some bolt ons.[/QUOTE]

I think Jerry just started doing slides this year & I haven't checked any out but no doubt they're legit, he does nice work....

These are Eric's...

 

I've looked at a bunch of BAMF bolt ons at the local meets. They would definitely exceed OPs expectations and easy of install.

 

I agree with most, those are not true not on, and for trail gear that's expensive. ALOT offroad websites sell them and I've seen a lot for 180$-200$. You are protecting a very vulnerable and expensive part of the truck. DO NOT BE CHEAP HERE.

 

As the old saying goes.... You get what you pay for. Got a feeling those... You're going to get what you pay for. If you plan on buying sliders just wait until you can afford (or are willing to spend more money) on quality ones. There are plenty of good vendors on here. I decided to go with Pelfreybilt and haven't been disappointed. I would recommend Pelfreybilt to anyone. Their quality is amazing and service after the sale is top notch.

 

SOS concepts +1 here.

Love mine with kickout.

 

Ditto. Great design, easy install, they work great and not many make them for the DCLB

 

I wish BAMF had the true bolt-on when I got mine. I have some from Avid and they are welded on. I've had zero issues, but the idea that I could take them off if I wanted still appeals to me. After welding, hit them with some undercoating and you're good to go. I was just under my truck yesterday and I have zero rust issues. If you ever lift the truck, you'll need a way to change a tire with a real jack. That's another reason to have the sliders...and a hi-lift jack.

 

The main draw of no drill bolt ons for me is that the 09's will inevitably join the frame rust recall

 

Guys, this is fact. My wife works for the local automobile used car auction. This is one of the largest auction companies in the world. She works in accounting, but has been to school on vehicle inspection.

She came home after attending the training and asked if I had drilled or welded anywhere on my trucks frame. She was mainly focused on the BAMF sliders. I assured her I did not drill the frame at all.

The reason why is that if during an inspection of the vehicle when it is being resold, any holes drilled into the frame or welding done on the frame classifies the vehicle as frame damage. Once that box is checked and entered into the system, the vehicles value plummets.

With that said, I like many of you do not live solely by my resale value. I am cautious, but ensure my mods will function. I have as set of BAMF bolt on sliders with rear kick out installed on my 2010 DCLB.

With knowledge of working with aircraft structures design and fabrication, I will say that the BAMF bolt on sliders are intensely strong. The reason is that the mount plates not only mount flat to the frames vertical edge, but the plates are bent at the bottom and are fastened to the frame rail lower flange.

The lower flange holes need to be drilled for maximum strength. I did not drill these since I have no rocks to deal with here, and mine are used basically as brush guards and steps.

There are several good brands out there. I won't say BMAF is the best, but it certainly could be.

PK

 

They do make a weld onto the frame brackets, and a removable slider kit you can buy. They typically slide onto and bolt into the welded brackets. That way it's durable and removable. But yes definitely look into the material being used before you buy it.

 

Yup.

 

I'm getting mixed responses to questions about Trail Gear sliders. I've heard they bolt right on, no drilling. I've heard some of the older ones required a lot of drilling. I've heard they still do. I can get a set dropped at my door in 7 business days for just over $330 total, new, I do NOT want to weld on, OR drill the frame. When I get my bonus check in a few weeks, I'm ordering sliders. From someone. Lead time will play SOME in who I choose. I do NOT want to wait 3 months.

 

Some of the bolt-on sliders do require you to drill holes if you are going to be using a hi-lift or doing some serious wheeling. If you are planning to use them as steps and door-ding protection then they may not need extra drilling.
Avid makes a "slider" step that bolts into the factory step holes. Check those out, if you are not planning to lift or wheel with them.

 

The Pelfreybilt bolt on's I have do not require you to drill holes. I've used a Hi Lift on them a few times with no issues. I posted a picture earlier with all the mounting hardware they send with the sliders and backing plates. I wanted the option of being able to remove them (don't know why I would) but did not want them welded to the frame.