Suspension Nightmare/Issues

Right!!!!!

 

i have a quick question i dont think it will help with his problem though.
is it just me or does he have wrong rear shocks in his truck? i ordered rear 5100s that handle up to 3' of lift.

 

So, back to the issue OP - you have a lot of front lift. 5100s at set at zero (assuming) and 885s, then adding top plate spacers.....you gotta be in the 3+ inch range without a front bumper. I can tell from one of the pics that you can see the UCA in that your ball joints aren't set anywhere near where they could be to get your caster up the in 3 degree range. The install shop should've known this, but you cant really hold that against them either.

I really think your solution is to relieve the coil preload, adjust the ball joints to give you another degree of caster, re-align then truck with the specs close to zero for toe and camber, and you'll love your truck.

Good discussion everyone!

 

it is being measured to see if both sides are the same or not. This is very simple. If a vehicle comes into the shop and they hit a curb I can tell immediately if the caster is off from one another.

 

I have nothing to add except "Goddamned finicky IFS". Give me back the death wobble of solid axles...

 

Had that on a Jeep after I lifted it up and took it for a hwy run, I'll never forget it!

 

Haha, still trying to pull the seat out of your ass huh...

 

I'm not saying you're wrong as that's exactly what I'd suggest, but it doesn't seem like any of that is going to cure a pull hard enough to the right that he's this bothered by it. It seems like there is something else going on?

Also, why would the toe be so far negative AFTER the first alignment? His before measurements on that Firestone printout show his toe is negative and out of spec from the previous alignment. I suppose it could have just been a horrible alignment the first time?

 

It's only an AAL and the standard length 5100 can accommodate that small of a lift. I suppose ~2" is a gray area for it though.

 

For those requesting measurements, these were the easiest to come
Off of.

Drivers Side Rear fender to rear tire: 2-3/16"
Passenger Side Rear fender to rear tire: 2-1/8"

 

Passenger side.

 

Drivers side:

 

Bump !

 

Has anyone ever heard of ROAD CROWN? Jesus Christ...

 

If you actually read the thread you'd see the OP said if he drives on the wrong side of the street the truck still pulls right and strong enough to pull it over the road crown.

 

Kind of off topic, but I have the exact same lift that I'll be installing myself. Question is.. Where approximately should the bushing be mounted on the arm since there is such a wide range of movement? Maybe this will clear it up for OP as well.

 

ST Maxx are known for pulling to the right. Some do, some don't. Mine are just fine. Have you tried going back to the OEM tires?