BamaToy's Garage and Diagnostic Center.

2015
TRD OR

Looking to upgrade electrical. Buying a new high amperage alternator. I know you sell the ones in your group buy so I know you'll know this off the top of your head. What is the crankshaft diameter? Stock everything under hood. Thanks in advance. Searched threads and all I could find is talk about supercharger pulley diameters.

 

Are you wanting the actual diameter of the crankshaft at the pulley, or the stock pulley diameter?

 

Crankshaft at the pulley por favor. The stock pulley is 3.00" correct?

 

I don't know the measurements where the pulley itself rides. I looked up some information and one spec is crank pin diameter, which I think is what you are looking for, and that is 2.086", but I am not sure if that is the diameter at the pulley. The stock pulley though is actually a little over 7 1/2 inches in diameter.

 

I'm having the exact same issue. Spent this weekend trying to locate the source with no luck. It happens when I press the brake pedal, it sounds like something is getting shifted and knocking into something when I hit the brakes. I jacked up the front end and spun the drivers side tire by hand then pressed the brake pedal with my hand while standing outside the truck and I heard it, definitely something occurring while hitting the brakes. I'm at a loss

 

Remove the wheels in the front, check your backing plate behind the rotor, and check your caliper. Two good places to start.

 

Thanks Bama, yeah I removed both front wheels and everything appears normal and tight. It's got me puzzled brother.

 

Check the CV axle where it enters the back of the spindle assembly to see if there is play in it. Also inspect the inner seal at that same location. Check for scoring or any possible contact.

 

Will do. That is one place I didn't check. Thanks

 

What about your brake hardware? Your sliding pins? You can pull them out and remove the brake dust and then regrease them. I've had that issue before. Could also be bushing being worn our on your LCA or loose shock mounts.

 

Bill, I wanted to add another symptom. The noise doesn't seem to appear if I stop and leave the truck on, for example when I went to a Wendy's and parked to eat I left the truck running in park and ate and when I took off no noise. I then drive to my destination and shut truck off and run into store for maybe 5 minutes go and start truck and the noise appears. Again just once and then I drive and don't hear noise until next time I go to use truck. Why I'm so confused is it gives a strong suspicion of brakes but what would brakes have to do with the truck being left on or not. Tia

 

Only thought there is heat saturation.

 

I'm sorry but could you elaborate on what heat saturation means. I tried to look it up but couldn't find a relation to automobiles. Tia

 

Heat saturation is when you have something like the brakes for example that naturally get hot over use. When you are driving and use the brakes, heat is generated in the rotor, caliper, and pads. Normal driving helps cool these components as air crosses over them. But when you get them hot and then stop, and don't drive to cool them, the heat actually will transfer deeper into the component. This deeper penetration of heat can cause thermal expansion which can "shift" components a small amount. This will vary depending on the amount of time between parking and resuming travel. It's not a very common problem, but it has been known to happen. Just one option for the reason behind why it does it most of the time, but not in the short time you go into a store and back out.

 

Year: 2011
Make: Tacoma
Model: Off-Road
Engine size: V6

On top of this basic information it would be VERY helpful to include:

Is a lift installed: Yes, Icon C/O's in front, Icon shocks in rear, Dakar Leaf pack with AAL.
Aftermarket components: Quite a few. A full list (well mostly full list) can be found here https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/velillens-2011-ac-m-t-build.386364/ Since that thread ive also done the fog light anytime mod and locker anytime mod...both of those within the last week though
Is there an alarm system installed: No
When did you first notice the problem?: Probably around 6 months ago
How often does it occur?: Every single startup
What have you ALREADY replaced to try and fix it?: I disconnected the battery and let it sit for ~30 minutes then reconnected it. Still got the error. Ive inspected the ABS sensor wires the best i could
Have you checked codes?:My ultragauge2 shows no error codes



Ok now for the actual problem! Whenever i turn the truck on two lights come on and stay on. Light number one is just the letters ABS on the right side of the cluster (upper right). The other is what i believe is called the "Slip Indicator" icon. Its the Car with swearing tire tracks behind it with a yellow background in the left cluster on the bottom.

I had installed the lift and had no error's. Then one day (dont remember exactly when) these two lights came on. My little bit of research indicates its probably an ABS issue. But Im not even sure where to begin or even if its something i can try to fix or need the dealer to fix. The couple other threads ive found mention having the VSC zero'd and if they are able ot zero then its all good but if they get an error there is a problem with one of the sensors.

Thanks for any help! Just hoping i can help save money having the dealership diagnose this

 

The best I could suggest you do is go to a parts store and see if they have an ABS code reader. The simple code reader you have most likely is not a body code reader, but just an engine/transmission code reader. There will be some kind of code stored if your ABS and TRAC lights are on. We have to get that done first.

 

Ill stop by the auto zone on my way home from and have them hook it up to check for codes.

 

Just stopped by both AutoZone and orielys. AutoZone the guy doesn't think their scanner reads abs codes. Hooked it up and no codes. Went to orielys and the guy had zero clue and basically just handed me the scanner and said bring it back in when done. Hooked it up and turned truck on same way as at AutoZone with no codes. Sadly I forgot to get the models of the scanners to check what all they read.

The AutoZone guy did say right off the bat I'll more than likely have to take it to the dealer or a Toyota specific place vs being able to do anything myself

 

Any auto shop worth it's weight in salt should have a scanner available to check. Many will do it as a courtesy. That is the best suggestion I can give at the moment.