Mobil 1 gear oil question

I am looking to change the front and rear diff oil in my 2012 double cab V6. I only put on about 6000 miles a year but about 1500 miles of those are light towing (1500 pounds ATV and trailer) on the highway. I have used Amsoil in past on my 03 and it worked fine but it is so much cheaper and easier to get Mobil 1. My question is will Mobil1 hold put to the 30,000 service interval with my towing and can it go 5 years? I assume the Amsoil is stronger and more resistant to break down but is it really that much better? I am looking to keep the truck for a long time and appreciate any advice.

 

You will receive 3 opinions.

Opinion 1 - use Amsoil

Opinion 2 - Mobil 1 is very good as well

Opinion 3 - some other brand will be mentioned.

I would like for anyone to produce evidence that any brand whose specs that line up with what's published by Toyota ever caused a failure.

The last statement was actually Opinion 4 - use what you want if it's spec.

 

Opinion 2 for me

 

Are you saying ...you'll put 30K miles in 5 years?

Amsoil & Mobile 1 are both very good products. They're synthetics. If you're towing ...I'd change it within the recommended intervals and you'll never have to worry about it 'breaking down'.

Takes a lot to break down synthetics. You need to change it more because of the crap that gets in the oils over time - moisture, chemicals, dirt, carbons, and whatever else.

Consult with your owners manual...it'll tell you what's recommended either mileage or time frame.

 

How about option 5?

There probably aren't many shops that see more wear and tear on differential gears than ECGS. If I have read their recommendations correctly, there is not really an advantage to synthetic oil in the rear ends. They specifically mention Lucas gear oil as recommended, and seems like they have said they see more wear with RP than any other.

 

Any source on this? Not trying to discredit you, but I would like to see the facts/testing on this.

 

Just what I remember reading from Chase. Since that is their business, I assume he knows what he's talking about. I'll see if I can find it.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-locker-3rd-member.193828/page-3#post-4238749

I'm not sure if I linked that correctly, but it is post 49 and 51

 

Racing in Solo II is more abusive on drivelines that low mileage light towing will ever be.

I chose to change to synthetics more for heat resistance and longer change intervals than anything else, but using the factory specs for weight and GL ratings.

Off the shelf Mobil or other is cheaper and easier to access than boutique fluids are. 100k miles with many a tire spinning launch and no driveline failures.

For your application, I'd run conventional fluid and maybe change 30% more often just to make yourself feel good. (say 20k instead of 30)

However, if you REALLY want to know, an independent lab test is the only way to find out. Everything else is voodoo and conjecture.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/tests.php

 

I don't tow but I have used mobil 1 gear oil in both my trucks for 30k and it has held up fine. My brother uses mobil 1 in his differential in his '94 300zxtt which puts out north of 400hp to the wheels and he drag races it (on a legal strip) and he swears by it.

 

I just wished they provided some source that performed testing on this. It's like saying enthanol gas is bad under all circumstances.

 

I have no idea where it comes from. I assume it's what they've seen in the shop. They really are only saying they don't notice any advantage in synthetic based on wear and only mention RP as seeing more wear than others. I would think it would be an easy assumption to make over several years of seeing hundreds or thousands of diffs.

For the most part, the average person never changes their diffs, ever. I know people who have over 200K and have never even considered changing the diff oil. Changing at 30K for the average use is so far ahead of the curve it probably doesn't matter what you use.

 

Can you give examples where it isn't bad? Not the rare E85 high boost race applications. Just for the everyday E10 pump gas.

You can't use benefits to the corn growers being subsidized by your taxes as a positive example of why we should use E10 either.

 

I'm not going to use premium gas in my push mower just because it is "better" for my $100 mower.

 

Premium does not mean non ethanol. And i happily buy non ethanol for all 4 of my small motors that don't get run regularly.

Question still stands. What is a good use of e10?

 

Exactly what I just said. I don't use e10 due to the fact that it is typically more expensive. I also live in Tennessee where ethanol is almost always added, so non-ethanol is rare to find in my area. It's a subjective statement to begin with. We could argue all day over whether or not ethanol should be added to fuel. If e10 was the same price as non ethanol, sure I'd purchase it instead. If my $100 weedeater mower miraculousy fails due to ethanol additive, I'll just go buy a new one from the money I've saved from not spending an extra $1-3 a gallon for the non-ethanol.

 

I Never use alcohol gas in my mower, weed wacker, leaf blower, chain saws, or '97 Z71. Because I have to drive my Taco all over several states on business, I have to use whatever kind of gasoline I can find for it. Z71 drives Much better on non alcohol regular than alcohol regular. I think the Taco is programed to run on alcohol gas. Still can't explain the water or varnish or whatever in the engine due to condensation with alcohol gas though.

 

Non-ethanol isn't that much more expensive in South Georgia. Well worth the 20 to 30 cents per gallon more for small engines. See, that's what pisses me off about ethanol gas; you pay less for gasoline with an expensive additive, alcohol, because of gov. subsidies. But the gas has less energy in it and screws up small engines. Follow the money.

 

I totally agree that the extra cost for non ethanol is worth it for an engine that you expect maximum life out of. I didn't really mean to thread jack about ethanol. I was just referring to that as another example of varied opinions. Every push mower (cheapos) that I have purchased I have used e10. The last mower I had lasted over fifteen years with virtually no maintainece besides a spark plug or two. I've always used non ethanol in my zero turn though.

 

I know, ZachPrerunner. I just get pissed off at that subsidy for corn for ethanol. Screws up my cattle prices, and my little engines. Dammit. It's just me bitchin'. Peace! I'm out. dammit