DIY: Full Flush for Automatic Transmission

Here's how to check the level for the Tundra http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra-drivetrain/111148-transmission-fluid-level-check.html

 

Reviving this thread !! I read everything all 23 pages and its wonderful !!
My neighbors issue us this - He bought the Auto 06 Sport 2WD truck with 171K.
It now has 211k and when cruising sometimes especially after a long trip
100 miles or so, the read end of the car will shudder, vibrate and
only when going into 5th gear. Doesn't happen every time but when it does its not under load
its really just when crusiing but it always when going into 5th. He has no records of any trans services,
so hes really worried about doing the full flush or just pan flush and fill. The myth still hovers around about
a complete flush will make it worse.

Can anyone chime in on this symptom shudder and the best flush remedy way to go about it?

 

Sounds like his torque converter is on its way out, it's hard to diagnose something like that without actually driving it for myself. A flush shouldn't hurt it, I'd drain the pan and see what it looks and smells like. If it doesn't smell burnt, I'd fill it back up with fresh fluid and see if you notice any improvement. If you do, then you might opt for a full flush later. A flush shouldn't hurt a properly working transmission, from what I've gathered if a transmission dies after a flush it was gonna die soon anyways. I think a lot of people wait until their transmission starts having problems before they service it, by that point it's too late... Then they blame the fresh fluid for killing it. Just my opinion though.

 

I agree with 07 sport 4x4. It's amazing what people call it. Suggest to do just drain & clean the pan (about 5 quarts) and change the filter.

 

The "filter" is just a metal screen, I wouldn't bother. Just drain the pan and refill. Don't forget to do the temp check. procedure to check the fluid level.

 

Yes the filter is just a fine mesh screen. With that many miles no telling what crap is stuck on it, including the muck sitting in the bottom of the pan. It's your truck $30 for filter and about an extra hour to change and clean the pan.

 

Thanks for the input, my 2010 Off Road does not have this issues whatsover !!
Seems like the problem is more common on the "Sport" from all that I have read.
After all the reviews Ive read, we're taking the truck to the local Toyota Dealership
to have the full flush and fill and they'll do some inspections too and try and upsell anyway
which will lead me to other items to note as well.

Ill keep you guys in the loop.

 

Will dealers perform just a drain and refill? Or will they only flush the system? I have 106k on the odo without any AT service. Would it even be worth messing with it at this point?

 

The issue you're referring to with the sport is the chattering LSD rear differential I believe. The 4.0 V6 Tacomas all have the A750f (4x4) or the A750e (2 wheel drive) automatic transmission or a 6-speed manual. There is absolutely no reason the sport models would be more prone to transmission issues.

 

Some will drain and fill and some will flush, you'll just have to ask your dealer and see what they do. Ask them how many quarts of fluid they are gonna use, it takes about 4 to drain and fill, and 12-14 to flush. If it were my truck I'd go for it, provided that it's working fine right now. We have members that have flushed their transmissions for the first time at higher milages than your truck with no ill effects.

 

Thank you and yes its a worry to change the fluid especially when there are NO
records of it ever being done !! Truck is uber clean so you would think so but
hate to chance it and hate the chatter more.

I will ask the dealer to flush and fill and how many QTs itll take to be certain thanks for the tip

 

Alright, my truck has that occansional "hard shift". It's nothing major and only appears to happen in cooler weather. My next question is: Is a drain and refill really that important? I'm thinking 4 quarts of new liquid mixed with 12-14 of old just really isn't helping that much. If I did that every few thousand miles, it would get very expensive.

 

Service advisor is asking me if it has World Standard Fluid?
and confirmed by my VIN that it is sealed-
Saying its a sealed transmission with a full synthetic fluid that
should not be pressurized or flushed can only be drained or filled.
per Toyotas bulletins. My rear leaf recall is also due.

Anyone chime in?

 

Asking a dealer if they'e going to simply do a pan drain and refill or a full flush is risky. You are in the waiting room with no idea what they REALLY did. Do the work yourself. You have this thread and another like it to get you through it. This way you WILL know that what you paid for really happened.

 

Your transmission is not sealed. As someone recently pointed out, they may call it that because there is no dipstick. Service Advisor asking if your truck has WS does not surprise me. Their job is to sell things people don't need in order to boost dealership profits. Their knowledge of cars/trucks is dismal as far as I'm concerned. He should know what your truck has. Based on everything they told you, I would find another dealership to do the work or simply read this and an associated thread and do it yourself.

 

WOW I called 3 local dealerships and im shocked by the lack of knowledge.
As much as I want Toyota to do the work, I think im going to take the DIY
to my trusted indy and make sure he uses the OEM Fluids. What a disaster
the service industry has become.

ps - one advisor asked if I had the differential fluid exchanged?
said there is an additive that is imperative and could be the cause of
my problem if not present

 

Almost nobody does a pressurized flush anymore. Most places used a fluid exchange machine, you hook it to the cooler lines and start the vehicle, old fluid goes in a container on one side of the machine and the machine pushes an equal amount of new fluid back through the cooler lines on the return side. Basically the same thing you're doing with this DIY flush. If I were you I'd do it myself, it's a little intimidating the first time you do it, but it's relatively simple and not much more complex than an oil change.

 

I read the DIY and printed it, it does seem to be very straight forward,
im just one of those guys who understands the process but trusts someone else
more experienced to do it, of course while I hover over him lol

- any chimes on the diff additive?

 

If you don't put the LSD additive the limited slip differentials will chatter, there's a write up on here to change it as well. Super simple, I've been using an additive in mine that I've had great results with, I'll post it up here in a little bit. Also, with the 05-09 limited slip differentials DO NOT use synthetic fluid or they will chatter worse than ever.

 

you don't need the additive. '09 and earlier Sport models needed it.