Sound upgrade help/build log

I posted this on the DIYMA forum and haven't received much help yet...since a lot of my questions really have to do with installation on the Tacoma itself I figured I might get some better responses here.

This is my first time posting on here. I've been lurking for awhile now and I picked up a 2012 Tacoma a few months ago with a less than desirable sound system. Its been about 7 years since I've done much car audio stuff when I was in high school. Most of the stuff was pretty cheap but I was happy with the sound at the time. I think i had some mid-line MB Quartz components with a crunch amp and a few different subwoofer setups. I'm pretty do-it-yourself oriented and have a mechanical engineering degree so I like to learn how things work.

I've been gathering as much info as I can for my setup. I know I would really like to keep the factory headunit and I am interested in learning how to use a DSP. I really would like to keep this build budget friendly, so I'm interested in the miniDSP c-DSP6x8 w/Mic. For speakers I think I narrowed it down(for now) to 7" Dayton RS180P and the Vifa XT25sc for tweeters. I plan to use the stock locations. For an amp I have a few used options, my brother has an older Crossfire VR404 thats 50X4 rms and also a Crossfire vr two channel(not sure which model yet) and his FIL has a Alpine PDX-5, 75x4 and 300x1. Any opinion on those would be great. I don't have a plan for a sub yet but would eventually like to get one that would work with one of those amps and would most likely use a single sub to fit behind the rear seats. I also plan to deaden the doors.

Any Advice for the equipment I've talked about and any advice with the installation for a Tacoma would be great. I'm excited to work on this build and hope to have a great sounding truck.

Thanks!

Dave

One of my concerns is the installation of the miniDSP C-DSP6x8. It allows up to 8Vrms for a high level input. Will this work with my factory head unit? I have the 2012 non-etune radio.

 

http://*********.com/car-audio-vide...to-your-stock-toyota-tacoma-stereo-head-unit/

As far as your equipment, I have no idea. Talk to ********* as they have great stuff that's toyota specific. The thing I linked is a sound processor by them that is very easy to use and is all plug and play.

 

While the Recurve does solve the issues of connecting an amp to the factory head unit, it still doesn't have some of the features I would need to run my speakers in an active set up.

 

Alright you can go with taco tunes and spend out the ass and have a good sound. or you can do what I did. I just ordered a dash kit put single din radio on and replaced all door speakers and put a box from hifisoundconnection.com in with 2 10" subs and a 750 watt amp. I could not be more pleased with my set up and it still have my back seat. I only spent around $600 give or take $20 for my set up.

 

What do you mean by active set up?

 

In this case a 2-way setup by running your midbass and tweeter without a passive crossover that comes with a set of component speakers. You would use the Digital Sound Processor to set the crossover points, use it to adjust the EQ, time alingnemnt, etc.

 

Ahh, I gotcha. What is the benefit of that? Just a finer tuning process?

 

From what I have been researching, yes. This will be my first time doing an active set up so hopefully it will be worth it.

 

Well, good luck with it and I hope someone else can answer your questions!

 

do 3 way front door

3-3.5" mid in stock upper. 6.5 or 6x9 lower and tweeters in the sail panels or A-pillars

i haven't measured the stock deck for actual voltage output. i will try to do that soon but i doubt it will do more than 2-3V before distortion

 

I'm thinking that same Dayton rs180 as well, but mixed with a 3 way up front. Probably an AMT tweeter as I really like the way they sound. For mid - the Dayton rs75 slowcom666 is running looks good as well as many others. I'm probably going 2 way in back doors, as well.

I spent quite a while Sunday learning about cross over networks and modeling different speakers and crossovers as well as lcr networks and learned a ton.
- Especially learned that a small change in the network can really screwup the sound if you don't pay attention to phase.

I can post links to some of the info if you like..

After realizing that the modeling was taking a decent effort and actual implementation and tuning would take more -going active is looking really tempting to me. The only drawback I'm having is needing a channel per speaker at least doubles the number of amps I was looking at and blows the budget...

 

when choosing mids and highs try to find a response graph that gives off axis plots. these are far more important in vehicle as you are never directly in front of a driver. this will make crossover points and tuning much easier

not mine just an example of what to look for in a graph

 

If you could measure that for me that would be awesome!

I saw your thread about the dayton rs75 replacing the tweeter in the door. It looks like it helped improve your sound. The only reasons I am hesitant to attempt a three way is this is the first time I will attempt an active system and I have read that a two way will be easier to tune than a three way. I plan to do the two way, if I find its lacking or having trouble getting the mid bass and tweeter to blend then possibly adding a mid range. Also I've never worked with fiberglass to make custom tweeter pods for the A-pillars. I realize there are other ways to mount them but that takes away from the whole stock look, but I'm not 100% opposed.

I'm not worried if this isn't a set it and forget it ordeal. I'm planning this as a budget way into a good sound system and tweaking and upgrading as needed.

 

Yah I'm not really interested in creating my own passive crossover. I'm hoping with the DSP and using a mic with the software RoomEQ I can tune my system. It will definitely be a learning experience for me.

I can go either way on the amps I listed above, or get all three. Just have to trade some work for them. So I am saving some of my budget there.

 

sounds like a good starter setup. i would try to get that PDX 5 if you can. it has the perfect amount of power for your front speakers, it's pretty compact, and you could power your sub from it as well. I don't know the peak voltage of the stock HU, but it should not be much more than 8V (if it is at all). You will just need to be a little more gentle with the volume knob if it is. You don't want to overdrive the DSP's input and cause distortion.

 

Speakers finally arrived. I still need to gather up some more equipment for the install. Other than being underpowered would these be ok to install on the stock head unit? Does the factory tweeter have a capacitor for a HPF?

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs180-4-7-reference-woofer-4-ohm--295-374

http://www.parts-express.com/tymphany-xt25sc90-04-1-dual-ring-radiator-tweeter--264-1014

 

you really need a crossover for the tweeter at the very least. it can be damaged.

a simple capacitor inline on the positive lead will work for now. i would suggest around 25mfd to start

 

I'm really interested in what you think of those RS180P s

 

Unfortunately, it will be a little while until I can get them in, but I will definitely give a review of them when I do. They seem pretty well built, but I don't have much to compare them to though.

 

So I was able to get a little bit of work/planning done last night. I pulled the passenger door panel off and removed both speakers in order to trace out templates for the baffles on the mid bass and some kind of plate for the tweeter to mount. I also did some measuring to check if everything will fit. The mid bass has a depth of 3", I figured a 3/4" baffle will give me the clearance? Anyone that can confirm this will work? I also have an idea to make the baffle out of aluminum. My dad owns his own machine shop and has 3/4" aluminum scrap that I can use for whatever I want. I figured aluminum won't have issues with moisture like MDF.

Here's a comparison of the stock speakers.