*Official* Ask A Detailer Thread

Ultimate Liquid is a sealant. Better longevity than NXT and M21 (says Meguires Online forum mods).

 

Pretty durable one i should say

 

Havent used waxes or sealants in a while, i usualy apply cquartz on cars

 

I had my black Tacoma waxed at a well known detail shop the day after I bought it. Yesterday I washed it which was 2 days after it was waxed. I was expecting the water to "bead" on it but instead it ran off in "sheets." I'm wondering if something was applied to the black paint after it left the assembly line. Or was it the wax used at my local detail shop. I thought it was done quick for a wash -n- wax as it was 2 hours and the truck was finished.

 

Sounds like a quick wax may have been applied. Something like the megs quick detailer spray wax tends to give the sheeting. Carnauba and some sealants give the beading and some sealants will result in the sheeting action.

In my experience at least.

 

Then it probably won't hold up for the winter then? He told me his wax stays on for 6 to 8 months if you don't take it through an automatic car wash. He said they just blast the wax off of paint. I don't use the auto car washes but I do use the hand bays.

I use the Eagle One Wax as U-Dry during the warm months where I can dry my truck after washing it. It beaded water on the 6 month old Colorado I just traded in this week.

 

It's possible that they could have washed and actually waxed it in 2 hours. They're quick with detailing tools nowadays. That's not to say they used a high quality product. But yes, some products bead and some products sheet. That said, the majority of products should be beading two days later. Can you call and ask them what product they applied? It's also possible that the dealer applied a silicone based "shine" product before you picked up the truck. Common practice. If that wasn't properly washed off, then a wax (and especially a sealer) might not adhere properly.

 

What did you use for soap? Some soaps actually coat the wax or sealant product underneath and then sheeting will occur. With a diluted isopropyl alcohol wipe down (removing the "soap"), the beading might return if a quality wax/sealant was used. I just watched a demo video about this. It's not a theory- it's fact.

 

Soap at the automatic wash shouldn't remove your product in one wash. Or five, if a quality product was used. But it will decrease the longevity substantially. As will the soap at the do it yourself car washes.

 

Yeah the guy has worked for several dealerships in the last 30 years detailing or managing the detail department. Just was surprised at how fast it was done. But I guess he has to be because he told me he has to make $1,000 a day just to keep his shop on Main St. open. He is out to lunch but I will call and ask about the wax. I know he told me he gets it in 5 gallon buckets.

Do you think Toyota applies a clear coat over there black paint??

 

Volume detailers like that are probably using a middle of the road product. He's detailing to sell- not protect (for the most part). That's not to say they're bad products. I'm not sure about the current black trucks. It used to be single stage, but now days, I wouldn't be surprised if it was clear coat. Anyone else know?

 

You may already know this- but the term "wax" is used very loosely now days. Most over the counter stuff (and what a typical detailer/dealer would use) has a mostly synthetic composition. And in some cases could simply be a spray on/wipe off, 3 minute "wax" job. You could pretty easily fool a buyer. Not to say they're trying to fool anyone. They're just trying to make the car look good quickly. The sacrifice in those products is longevity.

I love turtle wax ice spray wax and Meguires ultimate quick wax. Beads nicely and lasts awhile for such a cheap and easy product. They work really well to help extend the longevity of a better quality product underneath.

 

See that? Is that caused by bird shit? Sticks out like a sore thumb to me now that I've seen it. Easy fix? This is my 4Runner that's about a week old. Came with that overly expensive luster using sealant stuff.

Does anything help slow down the process of the crap acid eating through? I was hoping to hold off a month or 4 before attempting to clay bar and polish/ seal.

 

Actually you should be able to polish that out. After polishing, then seal to protect it.

 

You might even try a cleaner wax or something like Meguires scratchX. I've got something similar on my 2014 taco. I've taken really good care of the paint. It's always waxed/sealed. I'm wondering if it's some kind of etching from rain/sprinklers. It wouldn't come off with cleaner wax or a hand polish. Now I'm wondering if it's under the clear. Hard to say.

 

The sealer they sale at the dealer is a rip off. It's okay, but doesn't last any longer than any other sealer that any detail business can buy ( way cheaper ). I've been in the wash and detail business for Fifteen years and I can't tell you how many times I've heard " the dealer put a sealer on it and said I didn't have to ever wax it". What you see on yours is where the bird crap etched the clear coat. I don't think it can be buffed out, but I wouldn't say for sure unless I could try it myself. Had you a decent coat of wax and had removed the crap within a few days it wouldn't have left that spot.

 

Picked up the vehicle from the dealer on 11/7, bird attacked on the evening of 11/11, I removed it 11/12, but didn't notice that spot until yesterday. it's hard for me to imagine that a vehicle fresh of a dealer lot doesn't have some sort of wax on it. perhaps heat from the engine sped up the process? i didn't see anything like that where other bombs were dropped.

trying to think about what i have at home...ultimate liquid wax, clay bar, gold class car wash...think i'll go grab some Ultimate Compound.

 

Please come back and let me know how you end up dealing with this. I'd like to hear if your results.

 

You might want some ultimate polish too if you're doing the compound first. The compound hazes for some people on some finishes. FYI ScratchX is slightly less abrasive than the compound, but more abrasive than the polish and swirlX. ScratchX didn't haze for me when applied by hand on my pyrite mica, and it was strong enough to level some scratches, albeit with a lot of work.

 

so, i did it real quick last night with some Ultimate Compound and it's slightly better, but not much. I've never done anything like this before, so I was a little hesitant to go at it too hard. I'll try again tonight or tomorrow.

do any of you folks that aren't pros use anything like Mother's Powerball (4Paint)? Or Meg's dual action deal? For isolated spots that require a little more attention/ work? or just elbow grease?