Maxtrac Spindle Lift for 2nd Gen Prerunners

I'll be going to 4.88s when I get the cash

 

if you plan on going 37s, 4.88s would be the best option anyways. I have 35s and would like to go 37s eventually, but thats longer than I anticipate will happen, so im wondering if I should just do 4.56s until I do get new wheels and 37s then send the diff back in and get 4.88s installed

 

You have the heaviest Tacoma available, going with 35's, possibly 37's and you tow 6k lbs DAILY and up inclines?

Any idea what your tranny temps are?

 

Yikes.

 

I haven't checked my transmission temps. Will it show up via obdII? I just assumed since tow capacity is 6500lbs or so, that I was okay towing 6k lbs or so. I'm running a transmission oil cooler/radiator so I'm sure it helps. Have 60k miles on the truck (almost) and did fluid change at 30k and plan on doing again in the next couple weeks.

It shifts nicely. Haven't noticed any problems, but I am maxing out this truck. But that's what's it's made for. Dealer promised new engine and tranny if it fails within 100,000miles.


Either way, this is partly the reason for a regear to 4.88 to reduce wear on transmission.

 

It gets pricy to regear. I just dropped $1300 to get front and rear diffs sent to me from east coast gear supply, (and that's not including the $800 core charge). I might actually hang on to the cores, so that's a total of $2100 I did add on new front axle bushings ($45) but that's about it. So I wouldn't really want to regear twice. Pretty expensive. And sadly, that doesn't include a rear locker (extra $875)..

 

dirtymike has 4.56's in his I believe.

 

So if I'm reading correctly I still need spacers for the sport 17s. They need to be a 1/4in about to trade my 20s tomorrow and don't want to have to sit without wheels until spacers come in

 

I THINK the 17s should fit...im not too sure though. I know with my 16s having 4.5 BS they still clear the spindles. They might not with having 5.5? i think it is, only way to see is to try em on

 

ya thats what I was thinking, I didnt know the backspacing on the factory sport wheels. Since i have 16s, I wasnt sure if any 17 would be able to fit as they are 1" bigger than my wheels are

 

Am regearing now. Going to 4.88 gears. But I do tow quite a bit so that's why I went with 4.88. Otherwise, I would have gone with 4.56 gears. With 4.56, your pretty close to stock equivalent, only with 35" tires instead of 31" tires.

So with 4.88, I'm definitely geared lower than ideal for highway commutes, but I don't plan on hauling ass either. I'll be starting my build thread sometime this weekend or early next week once the parts start going onto the truck. Gears are arriving by the weekend and I plan on doing it over the weekend. Only thing I may add to my regear is ARB lockers, but that will have to be after I make a wheeling trip later this year and see how stuck I get. If I don't get stuck, I won't spend on the lockers. At least that's what I told my wife.

 

Aluf has a point, my back spacing is bigger than what mantrac recommends but I'm on dubs so that gave me room

 

I think the larger the wheel the more backspace you can have due to the shape of the spindles.

 

yea i think that's why aluf was saying it could possibly fit, only way to know is to try

 

Tire size and the actual width of the wheel will also come into play. You could clear the wheel but not the tire.
I have 16x7 with 4" BS and 285's and about 3/4" of clearance. 17x7 with 5" bs and 285's would be too close for my liking. With that being said you may want to run a 1" spacer. Just something to consider.

 

I posted some info on this in a different thread. This might help some. I'm thinking that the 17" min wheel stems from being able to clear the UCA's under heavy steering and load, although with a proper setup, 16" wheel should work, especially if you use stock spindles. Longer spindles may be a problem. Fitment will just have to be trial and error, as each manufacturer makes things a little different.
One major factor to take into account is making sure your tires don't "bulge" out past the wheel too much, especially if you're going to run a wheel setup with minimum backspace clearances. Under load, the tires will bulge out further, and if they rub against the spindle or UCA, your tire could go boom. This is especially true if you plan on running deflated tires for added traction.. Hope that helps some.

Here's what I posted in this thread regarding backspacing and offset. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tire-sizes.399087/#post-11079853



The offset won't really matter if the backspacing isn't correct. The backspacing measures from the wheel hub mount to the back side of the rim. This is critical, so you don't rub against your spindle, calipers, and other drive components.

You can have the same negative offset, but a wider rim and still rub. So that's why the backspacing is the first thing you should look at when choosing a rim.

Then, the offset comes into play. The bigger the negative offset, the further out the rim will stick out past your fender walls, assuming the backspacing remains constant.

And that's when you need to consider wheel bearing wear and tear. Hope this helps.

 

Just maxing.

 

Still maxing.

 

Anyone have any max tracs they want to sell