Oahu Members Thread

U taking the kings and giving her the foxes?

 

That's a great idea! But they still building it... Had a weird clunk in my front end. Been trying to find it for awhile, but no luck. So I tore apart my whole front end and gonna clean and reassemble. I need to order new total chaos uniballs, bushings and washers...

 

That chunk of mud Cody was referring to is the uniball liner coming out of the bottom. Caked with fine red dirt gotta stop off roading

 

Thinking about switching to the icon tubular UCAs since it has a cover for the balls. I won't be able to afford LT for awhile since my wife decided she wanted a new truck, and wants to build it right away...

 

A bunch of people on TW grumble about the cap on the Icon UCA's but I have them and mine still look brand new. I only open them up to clean maybe twice a year.

 

What is there to grumble about? Because need to buy new double sided tape when you remove them?

 

Some were saying that the cap trapped moisture and crap inside and ruined the uniball. I personally think they just neglected it, capped it and never opened it for a while in salty crappy conditions. Mine don't have any signs of wear at all, or pitting.

 

I have to replace my AllPro uni's also. They were making a weird disconnected sound. They were worn. I asked AllPro if that was normal. He said yes. Every 3 years they should be replaced. I guess i'll stop pounding the main road in Kaena.

 

So did you get to the bottom of that clunking sound?

May also want to consider the camburg ball joint style. Cheaper, maintenance free, same amount of travel as the uniball.
They weren't in stock when I needed them, so I went with uniball.

 

Bulla, I have a set of the JBA uca's inbound if you want to check them out before I install them.

 

Uniball FTW! I have a feeling he still wants uniball UCA's.

 

Myballs FTW

 

do i need to fuse each time i go to the next switch? or no need. thanks

 

Not sure if I am or you are understanding.... if you are using a bluesea fuse, each switch is attached to a separate blue sea fuse location. It is technically getting power to power up the item (light, compressor, etc) from there.

Many switches have 2 separate lights. One when the switch is turned on, and another one that can be connected to an AC, so it will light up when your cars lights (i.e. parking, headlight) are turned on.

To connect the switch lights so that they turn on when your lights are on, then you can tap a wire that comes on with your car's lights ( AC, or the shifter console) then you can daisy chain them from one the source---> switch---->switch------>switch.. on and on.. there is very little draw for these little lights and not technically used to "power up" the switched item, so no fuse is needed in the daisy chain
..

 

Thats kinda why I like my SPC arms; ball joint goes bad, easy to change it out

 

Uniballs too. Just remove spring clip and push out the uniball. They are just kind of expensive...

 

Yeah, UCA washers are worn, so when I brake, the hub and spindle wants to rotate forward. That force cocks the UCA even tho the long bolt is super tight, resulting in that clunk. When i take off again and it settles back, I get another clunk... FML.

 

sorry for the confusion. what im trying to achieve and understand is how to wire all the lights like my fogs, reverse leds, and soon to be light bar, to get them to work on acc power and not always hot. so id have to turn the ignition for them to work, instead of flip the switch whenever and they go on.

my biggest problem is i didnt know if i could use the same acc wire for all my lights

 

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/relays.html

 

How much was the powdercoat? This wet weather is making it hard to paint