1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Leak around oil drain screw...thoughts?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by dee_bo, Nov 14, 2009.

  1. Nov 14, 2009 at 12:45 PM
    #1
    dee_bo

    dee_bo [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2009
    Member:
    #25791
    Messages:
    195
    Gender:
    Male
    DFW
    Vehicle:
    2007 TRD Sport Tacoma
    None yet
    I just bought a used 2007 Tacoma and while inspecting it before purchase I noticed a leak around the washer of the oil drain bolt. I got the private owner to decrease it by $100 and he signed that if the pan thread is f;d and needs replacing he is responsible for the costs. I just got a new oil plug with washer and hope that fixes it....any suggestions?
     
  2. Nov 14, 2009 at 1:01 PM
    #2
    choptop

    choptop Molōn labe!

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2009
    Member:
    #12214
    Messages:
    178
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Scott
    Austin, TX
    Vehicle:
    2014 4Runner TEP
    The washer is bad- put in the new one and it'll be fine.
     
  3. Nov 14, 2009 at 1:32 PM
    #3
    WilsonTheDog

    WilsonTheDog Kylie's dad

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2007
    Member:
    #3496
    Messages:
    4,809
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Eric
    Myrtle Beach SC
    Vehicle:
    07 Prerunner SR5 DC/SB V6
    Magnaflow 12576 muffler & chrome tip, Westin step bars, 27% tint, Pop N Lock, AFE ProdryS, bed mat, Husky liners, D-rings added, Access Literider tonneau, Pioneer 4-ways all around, GY Wrangler Duratracs 265/75/16, 5100's @ 1.75", 1.5" AAL
    The seller paid $100 for a $.20 item. Nice.
     
  4. Nov 14, 2009 at 1:57 PM
    #4
    dee_bo

    dee_bo [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2009
    Member:
    #25791
    Messages:
    195
    Gender:
    Male
    DFW
    Vehicle:
    2007 TRD Sport Tacoma
    None yet
    Yeah I changes the washer but kept the bolt the same. The old metal washer has some corrosion looks like. I'm hoping that solves it. Spent $2.99 for a bolt and washer....so hopefully I saved $97 with the trade off lol
     
  5. Nov 14, 2009 at 2:02 PM
    #5
    dee_bo

    dee_bo [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2009
    Member:
    #25791
    Messages:
    195
    Gender:
    Male
    DFW
    Vehicle:
    2007 TRD Sport Tacoma
    None yet
    Well the washer i got now is plastic...so i'll change that every so often....guess every 3 oil changes sounds right
     
  6. Nov 14, 2009 at 4:50 PM
    #6
    JKD

    JKD Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2009
    Member:
    #18207
    Messages:
    2,041
    Gender:
    Male
    I am constantly baffled as to how my 1998 Plymouth has its factory original oil pan bolt and integral seal, with zero leaks, but a 2009 Tacoma "needs" a new seal ever oil change or so.

    Come to think of it, I'm pretty sure my '64 Plymouth oil pan bolt has its original seal too.
     
  7. Nov 14, 2009 at 4:55 PM
    #7
    dee_bo

    dee_bo [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2009
    Member:
    #25791
    Messages:
    195
    Gender:
    Male
    DFW
    Vehicle:
    2007 TRD Sport Tacoma
    None yet
    I also have a 1998 frontier and I have never had to replace the bolt/washer. Guess they don't make things like they use to lol
     
  8. Nov 14, 2009 at 4:55 PM
    #8
    outlawtacoma

    outlawtacoma Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2007
    Member:
    #2796
    Messages:
    3,323
    Gender:
    Male
    W. TN
    Vehicle:
    2018 T4RTRDOR
    fwiw, I have never changed the crush washer on either of my vehicles. no problems thus far
     
  9. Nov 14, 2009 at 4:58 PM
    #9
    BakoTruck

    BakoTruck Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 1, 2009
    Member:
    #16674
    Messages:
    2,850
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Matthew
    Bakersfield, CA
    Vehicle:
    05 PreRunner TRD
    Yeah it sounds like the washer is bad, just like others have mentioned above.
    Just make sure not to tighten it too much using the new washer, you can use a torque wrench. 15-20 ft. pounds outta be good.
     
  10. Nov 14, 2009 at 5:10 PM
    #10
    Kyouto42

    Kyouto42 Iron Beard

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2008
    Member:
    #8614
    Messages:
    9,120
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jake
    Ahwatukee, AZ
    Vehicle:
    BSP '10 4x4 TRD Off-Road DC
    See build thread in signature
    You don't even need that much, just hand tight is fine. The vacuum created by the engine will tighten it further...

    Also, +1 for the crush washer leaking. I haven't changed mine yet at 30k... no issues. I've never changed them... but hey easy fix and a great way to save some bones.
     
  11. Nov 14, 2009 at 5:17 PM
    #11
    BakoTruck

    BakoTruck Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 1, 2009
    Member:
    #16674
    Messages:
    2,850
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Matthew
    Bakersfield, CA
    Vehicle:
    05 PreRunner TRD
    What? Never heard of a vacuum by the engine tightening a screw before? What the hell are you talking about?

    The reason why I suggested that he use a torque wrench is because people over tighten the bolt and crush the washer too much, and cause it to be harder to take off the bolt.
     
  12. Nov 14, 2009 at 5:33 PM
    #12
    JKD

    JKD Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2009
    Member:
    #18207
    Messages:
    2,041
    Gender:
    Male
    I've heard this several times on this board...questioned it...never answered.

    There is no significant vacuum in the oil pan, aside from the tiny vacuum created by crankcase ventilation. And even if there was, it can't tighten a bolt.

    :confused:
     
  13. Nov 14, 2009 at 5:37 PM
    #13
    BakoTruck

    BakoTruck Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 1, 2009
    Member:
    #16674
    Messages:
    2,850
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Matthew
    Bakersfield, CA
    Vehicle:
    05 PreRunner TRD
    lol...yeah. The oil pump will pick up oil but won't tighten up a bolt.
    It seems like every tip I give to people, someone always has to have a remark on it. I can understand if I'm wrong on something, but damn.
     
  14. Nov 14, 2009 at 9:42 PM
    #14
    Marc M

    Marc M Dirty White Boy

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2008
    Member:
    #7441
    Messages:
    1,052
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Marc
    Washington, Pennsylvania
    Vehicle:
    '06 TRD O/R Dbl-Cab
    TRD Cat-Back, TRD CAI, 3" Lift, ATX Chambers, Color matched Grille and Door Handles, Scooped Hood, GrillCraft upper and lower, DTRL, Foglight Mod, Redline Hood Struts, 20% Tint all around, SGII, Blacked out dash, Extang Full-Tilt, etc, etc, etc.
    I've got 245,000 miles on my echo with the same washer and no leaks. That's around 35 to 40 oil changes.

    Marc M
     
  15. Nov 15, 2009 at 12:10 AM
    #15
    WilsonTheDog

    WilsonTheDog Kylie's dad

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2007
    Member:
    #3496
    Messages:
    4,809
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Eric
    Myrtle Beach SC
    Vehicle:
    07 Prerunner SR5 DC/SB V6
    Magnaflow 12576 muffler & chrome tip, Westin step bars, 27% tint, Pop N Lock, AFE ProdryS, bed mat, Husky liners, D-rings added, Access Literider tonneau, Pioneer 4-ways all around, GY Wrangler Duratracs 265/75/16, 5100's @ 1.75", 1.5" AAL
    They actually give you a new washer with every OEM filter.

    I don't know if he was just hooking me up or what but I paid $1.00 for 5 washers last year (I don't use OEM filters).
     
  16. Nov 15, 2009 at 9:33 AM
    #16
    Terrier

    Terrier Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2007
    Member:
    #3288
    Messages:
    231
    Gender:
    Male
    Idaho
    Vehicle:
    2008 SR5 Access Cab 4x4 2.7
    Well dee_bo, did the new washer stop the leak?
     
  17. Apr 28, 2010 at 5:41 PM
    #17
    geyemd

    geyemd Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2010
    Member:
    #33146
    Messages:
    8
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mark
    Maricopa, AZ
    Vehicle:
    06 Tacoma PreRunner DCB Sport Speedway Blue
    OK, plastic washers are fine - you should change them every two oil changes, flipping the plastic washer over on the 2nd use of it. The suggested torque for oil pan #2 bolt is 30 ft/lbs.

    If your oil pan #2 threads are fucked, then you need a new oil pan #2 (oil pan #1 is at the bottom of your engine, this is not what we're talking about though).

    As Kyouto42 mentions above as a vacuum, it's not, it's oil pressure. The oil pressure force want's to push the bolt out, but obviously that wouldn't happen with a 20-30 ft/lbs torqued bolt.

    Take care.
     
  18. Apr 30, 2010 at 1:19 PM
    #18
    bigef12

    bigef12 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2008
    Member:
    #11712
    Messages:
    103
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Eric
    Chattanooga, TN
    Vehicle:
    2004 4Runner SR5 4x4 V6
    Removed that stupid "Sport Bumper Trim"
    There are two oil pans?
     
  19. Apr 30, 2010 at 1:31 PM
    #19
    dee_bo

    dee_bo [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2009
    Member:
    #25791
    Messages:
    195
    Gender:
    Male
    DFW
    Vehicle:
    2007 TRD Sport Tacoma
    None yet
    Haha thanks man but you bumped my old post. I used a new plastic washer and no more oil leak...will need to replace it next oil change I think.

    The bolt was pretty loose when I changed it a week ago...think a metal washer is probably the way to go
     
  20. Apr 30, 2010 at 4:49 PM
    #20
    geyemd

    geyemd Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2010
    Member:
    #33146
    Messages:
    8
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mark
    Maricopa, AZ
    Vehicle:
    06 Tacoma PreRunner DCB Sport Speedway Blue
    Why of course there is.

    http://www.customtacos.com/tech/fil...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/01800310.pdf

    Page LU-13


    Oil pan #1 (or officially called the 'OIL PAN SUB-ASSEMBLY') is directly below your engine, it's connected to the engine block and timing cover.

    Oil pan #2 (or officially called 'NO. 2 OIL PAN SUB-ASSEMBLY') is connected to the aforementioned oil pan #1. This is what everyone uses to change drain their oil.

    No problem dee_bo - crush washers work well, but like the name, over time they get crushed too much, ha. Replace one/twice a year.

    Take care.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top