Electrical System upgrade GROUPBUY (BIG 3 PLUS)! **CLOSED**

Gotcha, sounds like a good solution to me. Thanks again Bill!

 

Got my stage 2 kit all done today and went to start it and *click* nothing. My son over tightened the bolt to the starter and snapped it. Oh well it was old and appeared to be on its last leg.
This wiring is awesome by the way! Thanx @BamaToy1997

 

May be a dumb question but, is the factory harness meant to be completely REMOVED? Or just disconnected at the ends to allow for the new harness to be layed in over the top?

Also, the instruction for removing and reattaching the battery-to-fusebox cable in the original location for the alternator cable is a bit confusing.

If anyone has pictures, I would be most obliged.

 

Is is designed to be installed in either fashion, as a replacement, or just disconnecting the factory cabling. What part of the instructions is confusing? Just wanting to know so that I may clarify.

 

There were instructions?

 

Got my starter in and still wouldn't fire. Apparently in the older trucks (1992) you can't remove all the old harness for the alternator, somewhere in there must be a signal wire or something. She died right up when I just piggy backed that harness. The grounds and starter wires were completely removed and replaced.

 

@BamaToy1997, let's see if I got the pieces straight...







these two steps together were confusing. is the short wire from the battery the one that powers the fuse box? and does that get reconnected? To where does the new transparent wire connect?

2. Disconnect positive cable from battery.
Disconnect wire from positive cable-to-under fuse box and carefully place aside for later.

14. Take new Stage 1 Wiring Kit and route cables as follows:
d. 8 gauge 24” red or transparent cable to top of fuse box with other cable from Step 2 (Bolt in now)

EDIT: after talking it through, I believe the short wire that runs to the bottom (more like the side) of the fuse box needs to be routed back in to the top of the fuse box and mounted together with new transparent wire on the mounting stud for used for original alternator wire. This means that alternator is now connected directly to battery instead of going through fuse box?

 

ok. In step 2 there should be a positive cable that goes from the factory positive cable to the under side of the fuse box. To aid in appearance I have you take that cable and relocate it from the battery terminal (where it originally was) to the positive terminal on the top of the fuse box. This is also where the factory alternator was connected. Since this kit is designed to allow for high output alternators and heavy loades, the alternator is connected directly to the battery, and the 8 gauge cable that comes in the kit feeds the fuse box as if it were the alternator's output. Does that help any?

 

Yes, I think this is clear now. To reiterate, both the original fuse box power wire AND the new 8ga wire that comes in the kit, get connected to the mounting stud inside the fuse box (which is where the original alternator wire was connected).

 

You got it!

 

received my package today, now need install instructions and time to do it.... Thank You Bill.....

 

Instructions can be found if you search back a few pages! Glad you like it!

 

I see the 17 step instructions, but no for the voltage read out.

NM im blind

 

Red and blue go to positive and black to negative for the voltage meter

 

So to make it easy, can we get a link to the install instructions in the first post of each of these threads, that way there is no hunting for it or confusion. Thanks Bill!

 

Copy of instructions has been posted in post #2 of the build/ship thread.

 

Pming you @BamaToy1997

 

Got mine today!



Installing 2 weeks from now hopefully. Seems pretty easy to install just by looking at it

 

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