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help with rustproofing 2016 taco

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by 78 corolla wagon, Nov 20, 2015.

  1. Nov 23, 2015 at 8:55 AM
    #41
    TMMIgirl

    TMMIgirl Well-Known Member

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    I would be nervous about plugging up the frame holes. They are there to allow the frame to breath and water to drain out.
     
  2. Nov 24, 2015 at 5:38 AM
    #42
    bdunna

    bdunna Well-Known Member

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    I second that motion. I don't think plugging the holes would be good. It won't let moisture or condensation evaporate. If you plugged the door panels they would fill with water and rust for sure. Some companies drill extra holes to spray undercoating. They then make sure the holes are open for drainage. If they block them they go back and open them up.
     
  3. Dec 21, 2015 at 9:39 PM
    #43
    manfrommarrs

    manfrommarrs Member

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    Mine's basically an office on wheels, I drive 50k+ miles a year. I have a computer desk bolted to the front inner passenger seat rail. Also has a Lund tri-fold tonno cover to carry catalogs and product samples. Eventually want to get a Leer or ARE camper top with side fold out windows.
    Man this thread is depressing, I'm glad I live in Texas!
     
  4. Dec 22, 2015 at 12:10 AM
    #44
    Stockotaco

    Stockotaco Well-Known Member

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    These 2016 models come with corrosion warranty. Is it necessary to rust proof before the warranty is up?
     
  5. Dec 22, 2015 at 4:00 AM
    #45
    robertbank

    robertbank Well-Known Member

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    If it starts before the warranty and is not noticed or recognized as serious ad the warranty expires, then what. Yes if you live in an area where salt is used frequently on roads it is.

    Bob
     
  6. Dec 22, 2015 at 5:46 AM
    #46
    Mad Man Marty

    Mad Man Marty Well-Known Member

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    Just fluid filmed my '07 over the yesterday.
    Just need to put the frame plugs in,& I'll be ready for winter.
    Cost: $40 for the FF, $50 for the plug set.
     
  7. Apr 12, 2016 at 5:34 AM
    #47
    darncart

    darncart Well-Known Member

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    I got Ziebart for $595 which includes free annual checks and touch up sprays for 10 years. We also have Krown available here and it would be about $130 - $140 for annual treatments. 10 years of those would be $1400.
     
  8. Apr 12, 2016 at 5:44 AM
    #48
    whopper

    whopper 2016 MGM 4x4 double cab

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    Screenshot_2016-04-12-08-43-06.jpg 12 volt rust stop
     
  9. Apr 12, 2016 at 6:27 AM
    #49
    Northern Taco

    Northern Taco Well-Known Member

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    Those electronic boxes are a waste of money where I live. Not enough continuity in a truck for them to work effectively.

    The major auto manufacturers dropped them for warranty.
     
  10. Apr 12, 2016 at 6:29 AM
    #50
    16TacomaSport

    16TacomaSport Well-Known Member

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    i just sprayed the whole underneath of my truck with fluid film. It is a little messy and time consuming but its cheap. I plan on doing it twice a year. next time I am going to have it up on my buddies lift so I can do it faster and easier next time
     
  11. Apr 12, 2016 at 9:18 AM
    #51
    pjbrownva

    pjbrownva Member

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    So, I'm six months late to the conversation, but I'd like to add this...

    There's nothing wrong with annual anti-rust treatment, except that you should have it done EVERY Year.


    You may want to consider a longer-lasting solution.

    I'm leaning towards using two products.

    Namely, POR 15 which is a highly recommended under coating that is more like a permanent treatment rather than fluid film or some other solutions that you should reapply each year.

    For the inside of the frame and areas that are hard to reach, Eastwood Internal Frame Coating for is a highly rated do it yourself rustproofing solution that is meant as a long-term if not permanent anti-rust treatment.

    That's what I'm leaning towards doing to my 4Runner if / when I have the money and time... although if I find a shop that will do POR 15 and Eastwood internal frame coating or something similar for a reasonable price, I would be more than happy to pay them $200, $300, $400 or maybe even $500 bucks and be done with it.

    Just thought I'd post some longer-term alternatives to an annual solution.
     
  12. Apr 12, 2016 at 9:25 AM
    #52
    JL911

    JL911 Psshh

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    A rubberized undercoat is a terrible idea. When the coating forms small cracks over time, it traps moisture inside the coating and against the frame leading to frame rot that is invisible as its hidden underneath. Do not do this.
     
  13. Apr 12, 2016 at 11:13 AM
    #53
    Mad Man Marty

    Mad Man Marty Well-Known Member

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    I was a big fan of Ziebart many years ago. I do not know how they are now.
    they used to drill holes in doors and hard to reach places to add their rustproof spray.
    We used to use it on plow/work trucks.
    Id be curious to see photos of their work.
     
  14. Apr 12, 2016 at 12:56 PM
    #54
    Northern Taco

    Northern Taco Well-Known Member

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    I agree 1000%.
    These so called permanent undercoating are terrible. I live in north east Canada, and see it time and time again, those one time "permanent" undercoatings dry out and the metal rots in behind it. Metal surfaces don't start rusting from the middle of the panel. You need a light, runny oil type spray to "creep" into all the crevices and cracks. Also there are various foam pieces throughout the body panels that need a thin creeping coating to penetrate between the foam and metal
     
  15. Apr 12, 2016 at 2:14 PM
    #55
    over60

    over60 Over70 & still a "Grumpy Old Guy"

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    Totally agree.... Here in Ontario, I think THE best option is "Corrosion Free".... My guy that does it is very OCD, and I like that.... You should see his 1971 Chev Pickup.... It's better than the day it came from the factory..!!
     
  16. Apr 12, 2016 at 3:58 PM
    #56
    robertbank

    robertbank Well-Known Member

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    From my 10 year experience living in Ontario (Peterborough), if it works there it will work anywhere. I say that for those in the US who may not know much about Ontario. Their Highway Department considers a foot of salt for every suggested snow fall to be about the right combination. How any of their vehicles manage not to disappear in a pile of rust in less than three years is one of the great mysteries of the planet.

    Take Care

    Bob
     
  17. Apr 12, 2016 at 4:18 PM
    #57
    over60

    over60 Over70 & still a "Grumpy Old Guy"

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    Toyota running boards/Solid Fold 2.0/custom stickers/Anti-Dark LED light under hood/Derped grill/Scoop, etc.
    Right on Bob....!!

    It real hard to keep a vehicle in good shape here.... It's not the salt (sodium chloride) so much anymore... they are now using Calcium Chloride.... and in a "brine" form (liquid)... this shit sticks to vehicles like baby shit to a diaper...AND... it's more corrosive than the regular salt...!!

    Regular washing does not get it like the salt residue....!!

    I'm gonna have to move further north to get out of the salty roads, I guess..
     
  18. Apr 12, 2016 at 6:46 PM
    #58
    robertbank

    robertbank Well-Known Member

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    Well we have the salt sorted out BUT the local highway maintenance types think lightly crushed gravel constitutes sand in the winter. First you rock chip the paint and crack their windshields then you add salt to speed up the rusting process. Windshields look like they spent time in a war zone after about three years. Fortunately our winter season is relatively short where I am as we are not far from the coast. Further inland you get the full treatment from the highway boys.

    Bob
     
  19. Apr 12, 2016 at 6:50 PM
    #59
    OZ-T

    OZ-T I hate my neighbour

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    FYI you can get Corrosion Free's Rust Cure Formula 3000 in spray cans at Canadian Tire , stuff is awesome
     

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