Sticky: Oem Mini header and heat shield

Part #

$414 17141-75080 Exhaust Manifold

17141-75080 for the 2.4-2.7 mini header.

Part# 17167-75100 for the correct fitting heat insulator/shield. I present to you,,said item.



Took a resend to get the right shield. The cast iron manifolds shield is associated with the mini header part number,,so disregard the 17167-75012 shield part number when you see it associated with the oem stainless header,,cuz it's F'N wrong all over the dam interweb and with almost every toyota oem parts replacement website. The Japanese sites got it right,,and the Russian sites,,go figure.

There were 13 shields left in the US when I ordered mine.

Finished this up last thursday.

Egr tube is now missing the ridiculously placed bolt on the back of the head for it's hold down clamp,,and it wont be going back in. Sorry,not gonna happen. Not needed as per me.

Reused the old hardware except for the Egr studs,,which got a hardened stud from the muffler shop down the street. All orig lock nuts were working as they should even after there cleanup. All slathered with Anti-Seize as it went together.

'Tanks for reading!

 

The manifold heat shield on my 95 is rattling and driving me crazy. I was just going to remove it, but thought they might have a purpose beyond guarding against burnt fingers. I did search for heat shield and saw this recent post.

Is the heat shield necessary? If so, why?

TIA,
David

 

I've ran without a heat shield on both of my 2.7's for quite some time with no problems...

 

I put the oem mini header on my 2000 2.7l at the end February, attempted to fit the old heat shield on the new header but the nuts didn't fit on the heat shield studs coming off the new header. Said eff it and have been running for 2 months now without a heat shield.

I don't really know if there are performance benefits for having the heat shield, but I just made sure all wires/tubing are as far from the header as possible so something doesn't melt. Everything has been good so far

 

didn't even bother ordering a heat shield when i ordered my mini header.. have been without one for a few months no problems..

 

Almost sent mine out to have it Jet Hot coated inside and out, but I needed the truck back soon so I just opted to put the correct shield on the mini header. You want to get the heat from exhaust to pass thru the header and system and not radiate out so much. A more efficient burn and cooler engine temp in other words. A heat insulator/shield helps to do that as well as keep the heat from the inside of the bay and from not soaking the OEM intake tract tubing as well as cooking underhood wiring and such. This thread is here for those who would want that shield back in place. Is it needed?,,I'll let you decide.

 

Thanks for the helpful information, Mod. Apparently, this thread is also for people looking for answers to questions.

 

I will be replacing my exhaust manifold soon. (Cracked) Have you guys noticed any HP gains from switching to the miniheader? It's almost 400 bucks with the gaskets and heat shield. Also been looking at trail gear's rock ripper header for about 300. Thoughts?

 

I had a substantial increase. Real seat of the pants improvement,,but I am without the Cat converter.

 

I have a 96 and replaced cat back. Still have a leak. Assuming its the manifold? This is a rust bucket by the way. took off heat shield and couldnt find any cracks. by the way, nuts seem to be standard 14mm size but studs are like some kind of torx design?

thanks for information

 

yes it is needed to keep the plug wires and intake ducts from drying out too much from the heat but that said, if you left it off it might take 10 years for the wires to get crispy and the air duct to start splitting at the flex joints

 

use a 12 point socket to undo the studs but I trty not to mess with studs unless I have to, way too many times they snap off inside the heads on me

 

Yes, the manifold studs are a OEM 10mm E-Torx head design. You can find a full set of those sockets at Harbor Freight if you decide to remove and replace. If you don't have to remove those studs for whatever reason, then I would just leave them alone. Same goes for the EGR tube studs on the manifold(E-Torx) if you have those. Your leak is probably where the new cat bolted up to a flange,,it will take a bit for it to show exhaust gas streaks if so.

 

i will check it out later. thank you

 

...same here. The coated header keeps underhood temps cooler too.

 

Ritchie wanted to ask you or anyone else about those Doug Thorley Headers. Been in contact also with the Manufacturer are they that good? I've got the Automatic with the Basic 2.7 and it seems there's no mid range power. I'm really shock when in traffic, at about 30/40 mph I gas it there's nothing! I've also installed a AEM filter & glasspack muffler.

 

Well I will say, I didn't buy it for performance. I wanted it to keep the under hood temp down and it definitely does that. The quality is as I expected.
The primary tubes are the same size as the OEM header, although these are of equal length.
I do not have any loss of power... not that there is much to start with, and I have a modified OEM air box and auto trans.

Hope this answers your question.

 

Those headers, the manufacture brags about more low to mid range torque! Cause of the Y pipe configuration. With a 4 banger every little improvement helps. If you wanted to lower the temperature I would had install a cooler 180 degrees thermostat. What did you do to the automatic? As far as the rear end ratio did you know what the stock ratio was?

 

My OEM ratio was 4.30's with OEM 265x70x16's. Gearing really sucked. Never used OD.
Now, I have 5.29's. 285x75x16's and it's awesome.
When I had my trans re-built, I had a mild shift kit installed which eliminated the sluggish shifting.
Works great for me.

Hope this answers your questions.

 

Yes thanks, I'll get the headers. Then if needed go have the differential reared gear, along with the speedometer.