++ Group Buy: Dirt Designs *2nd or 1st Gen* Shock Bucket Top Engine Crossover Bracket ++

@Sacrifice The bolt is so the cross over is removable. Solid is best but this will be good enough imo

 

Yea i figured that was why. Just curious as to if it would make sense to hack a hole big enough to make it solid, like the 1st gen picture.

 

@dirt designs i sent an email but forgot to state i would like a welded when you invoice me

 

1st gen isn't solid. Its a flange. Unbolts still. I guess its more solid then a bushing.

 

Solid to the flange is what i mean. There isnt a through bolt/bushing for the actual crossover tube to rotate any.

 

Urd sc compatible?

 

Same here...l'd like to see some additional pictures of both sides for a 1st gen...and to clarify if will be compatible with my TRD supercharger?? Sorry..can't give up the S/C!!

Also...I'm assuming the 1st gen kit will fit 3rd gen 4Runners...correct? I'm very interested in this...like to be part of this.

 

This is crazy but i like it

 

There is no bushing. It's a tube with quarter inch washer welded on each end to bolt through. Pert solid.

 

Not sure guys, have to see what DD thinks on how much room there is between the hood and SC. Could pop the hood and see if you think it will work. This kit is just a good jumping off point.

 

Yes sir...just excited about how this can work out so it fits. Wow..this will really strengthen the frame on our trucks. I'll be following to see what DD says! Thanks for all your work and help!! I appreciate it!

 

One of my personal mechanic's @ckeene9 is going to order two (2nd gen un-welded ) So we can split shipping and make it a bit easier on Dirt Designs.
Will be nice to tie up my coil over bucket considering its notched for the reservoir hose.

 

Email sent for (2) unwelded kits.

 

Dirt Designs*

 

Okay so just to confirm.......there is no bushing? It is just open tube with a 1/4" thick washer welded on each side? Depending on movement of the frame and all wouldn't that wallow out the holes in the washers eventually? Do you have any pics of that part of the mount? The washer side I mean?

 

LOL.

 

Yessir. To make a run of parts they need to be the same, so min 5 1st gen.

It came down to room for the flanges and the taller engines in 2nd gens. The engine cage in 2nd gens are bent further away from the bolt then 1st gens. Any rotation at the bolt wont add up to as much flex as the tubing itself, but it should not rotate if the bolts are tight enough. Increasing the tubing OD, wall thickness, or using chromoly will increase the engine cage rigidity much more then the flange/single bolt in this case.

And yes no bushing. 1/4" thick weld washers. No issues with wallowing out the holes if you tighten the bolts. We supply the gr8 bolts with top lock nuts so they wont loosen up. Top lock nuts are only good for one/two tightening by hand (no impact). If you remove your crossover tube, grab a couple extra nuts. The local hardware stores should carry them for about 50cent each.

The pics i posted of the 1st gen are the best I have. I dont know if Ive ever used these on a s/c 3.4L so cant help you there. It comes down to where you can route the engine crossover tube. The way we check for clearance is grab a round tube ~2.25" od and set it on top of the area you want to run over, then slowly shut the hood. If it clears then you have enough room to run 1.75" tubing with clearance on the engine. I think your best bet to get over the s/c would be straight across from bucket to bucket so the engine tube looks more like the 2nd gen crossover

 

Sweet. So Marc should we start a different thread or just a second list for the 1st gen version?

 

Awesome thanks steve. Just waiting to be invoiced

 

I'm in. Email sent to @dirt designs