What do I need for dual battery setup?

Besides a Flux capacitor..

- 2 batteries, do they have to match (amperage, capacity, brand,...)
- isolator? Controller?

 

You have options that for sure.

But if you build your own kit I would go blue sea ml acr 7622 and welder wire.

 

I use stander battery for my second battery and have die hard platuim 31 agm.

 

I've seen the ACR being used. Seemed like it was not being manufactured anymore? I like the looks of the smaller panels that are about the size of dash switches.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-batterys-thread.295653/page-34#post-11280878

Check this thread out will get your started

 

I can help you with your batteries...

 

I just bought a ml-acr 7622 from imarine.com like a week ago.

 

That's what I did, and it works perfectly. I bought a Northstar battery the same size, group 27, as the starter battery. It is a deep cycle marine style battery, so it is not the ideal starter battery. But my fridge will run for three days in the summer even with my opening it many times.

Peter

 

Yep, that's one of the threads that have sparked my interest. I'm looking for more of a "This is what you need" thread here. So I can take that and build off of it.

 

http://www.imarineusa.com/

 

And then I see a picture like this and go "Do I need all that"? ML-ACR + ML-RBS + ML-ACR

 

yep.

 

No, one ML-ACR, the switch that comes with it. A cuircut breaker and then, depending on what you want to run, a small fuse box, or a big fuse box and some relays.

 

I just got the parts to install a 2nd battery in my 07; all I need is the battery! And still gotta do the wiring/crimping and isolator install. The battery tray took some time but it's in.

First decision is to decide on the relay. Essentially, a solenoid or diode relay. The first is mechanical; the second is solid state. The solenoid will wear out, eventually, and draws about half an amp for every 100 amp rating; diode uses about half a volt+. a good quality 200 amp solenoid starts at $40; equal quality 200 amp diodes, at $80. Solenoids are compact and can withstand high heat areas better than diode relays which are bigger and generate heat themselves. Get a relay rated at or higher than the alternator amp output. The low cost relays can be wired to an on/off switch, or to an accessory-on power source. The fancier units can detect battery voltage, cut off battery power, etc...

The batteries don't need to be identical or similar, just 12 volts. The type (deep, agm,, standard) depends on your usage. If you have a winch or other high amp accessory, get an agm battery. If you have low draw accessories, a marine style deep cycle may be best. If you have minimal accessories and just want a battery as a backup (me), a standard battery will do.

Decide where you want to put the battery - that will limit your battery choices. I'm putting mine on the passenger side; I don't want more weight on the driver side. When I lifted my truck, at about 50K miles, my driver side springs were almost 3/16th's shorter than the passenger side. I swapped them.

Use at minimum two gauge wiring and consider doing a wire gauge upgrade for the alternator and current battery setup - what they call the Big 3 Upgrade. (OEM is, I believe, four gauge). You can buy the necessary tools and crimps or have a battery shop do the cutting and crimping for you. There are dealers online also.

I'm going low-cost. Got a

$75 Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A Continuous Solenoid

Cole Hersee 24213 200 amp solenoid relay, $38, which I will wire with a manual on/off switch. Yesterday, I installed a $13 WirthCo metal battery tray on the passenger side. Got a crimping gun and two gauge wiring and gotta work on the crimping next.