Dome lights won't turn off!

Mine was covered under warranty.

 

Popcorn? I didn't mean anything derogatory with my comment.
If this happened to me, I would have put the original parts back in and played dumb, ' I don't know what happened, I noticed the fuse was blown and after replacing it the dome light wouldn't shut off'

That would've been my story to the dealer. Some may call it dishonest, but there's no reason changing a bulb should cause more damage than a blown fuse. I wouldn't feel guilty at all!! Lol!

 

Less is more when "dealing" with a dealership. Haha

 

What console was replaced?
The Map Light Console?

Unless the 2016's are extremely different the only thing the dome light and the map lights have in common is the Dome Power Fuse and they go to common ground. The map lights have their own built in power switch don't they? ( press the lens to turn them on and off ).

Has anyone downloaded any electrical schematics for the 2016? I would love to get my hands on a copy.

 

This help any?

Photo by nevadabugle

 

Roof console box has its own circuit board. Running short to ground through a circuit board isnt usually going to end well.

 

I wonder how much that costs if you have to pay for it?

 

I don't see where the Dome light is tied into that circuit other than the Body ECU.

It looks like the same as the second gens the Vanity/Map Lights share power source and Body ECU but have actual separate paths to ground. As in shorting one shouldn't effect the other. Do you have a complete print?

 

I had the same issue when I replaced the lamps with LED. They have to sit in there perfectly to work like they should. VERY easy to screw things up. Putting an LED in backwards should not blow a fuse, They are made to go in both ways only one side of which will work. They seem to be like diodes.

 

This obviously is not a 16 electrical diagram, however you get a fair illustration of an modular LED circuit in the ignition cylinder key light (Blue Box under the dome circuit relay) Note the zener diode is reverse biased to regulate voltage with two in series resistors in front and back of the LED, probably 1.5 ohms each, value of zener is unknown but is designed to regulate voltage protecting the LED from voltage fluctuations and spikes, possibly a 10 volt zener. This LED "Module" or "Light" is all one circuit which IS polarity sensitive.

Keep that in mind Polarity sensitive, if it is put in backwards the zener will not regulate and act only as a forward biased diode dropping 0.7 volts, the LED which is now reverse biased will not light and the circuit will draw more that 7.5 amps thus blowing the fuse.

On the vanity lamp side an LED "module" is still polarity sensitive as it needs to be forward biased, however there are conditions that could allow current to flow if the LED "module" is installed reverse polarity. Not having a full diagram makes this a harder case to prove.

In all likely hood the Dome LED was installed reverse polarity and blew the fuse, possibly damaging the coil. So I have a hard time believing that it worked for two weeks and then started acting up. On the ECU side whether it was the BODY ECU, Main ECU or "16" other ECU, my guess would be that it was simply reset by the dealer from the fault condition. All systems monitoring.

Two problems here, lack of 16 electrical diagrams and in my opinion device type (LEDs) being used in dome lamp when installed backwards or incorrectly biased to cause the blown 7.5a fuse and creating the fault in the ECU..... and possibly, but unlikely taking out the relay in the overhead console assembly.

Sounds by feedback the VLED's are designed and built to spec with quality control if the console bulb from them was installed backward and did not blow the fuse,fault protection by a simple resistor or added zener, on the other hand other manufactures may not adhere to design specs, have fault protection nor adhere to Toyota or care about Toyota integration...Longshot but worth throwing out there.

Hope this helps a tad....

 

It is a diagram for a 16. Why do you think it's not. I can get a larger screen shot when I get on a computer if it's really needed. This is all the wiring for the dome circuit though.

There isn't much you can reset in the body control module. If it sets codes you can clear them but it don't have short protection built in that could be reset. If they replaced the overhead console and it now works correctly I would say the dome hold/fade away feature is built into the circuit board in the console and not the BCM.

 

not all LED are dual polarity. LED with dual usually cost more. VLED will state on the page for the LED if its dual or not. the 194 from VLEDS are dual, but the 3022 is not.

 

I really want to replace my oem interior bulbs for led's. But I don't want to kill my lights or higher assemblies in the process either.

Thinking of using vleds: VANITY_2_W_6K for the sunvisors, 194_6_W_6K_LL for the map, and 3022_6_W_6K for the dome.
Although, I see 3 real options for the map lights. The 194_6_W_6K_LL which is a reduced power version of 194_6_W_6K_N and the 194_4_HPF_W_6K flank bulb.
Any suggestions for the map light between the three? Course, the flank version is not polarity sensitive so can't damage systems with reversing polarity.

Which leads me to how to properly install the leds without damaging the various higher assemblies (boards, computers, etc...)

What if I used a multi-meter and checked the polarity of the bulb base receptacles in the truck before installing the led bulbs.
I would then attach lets say 12v 500ma or so dc power from a separate power transformer to the bulbs to determine polarity of the bulbs.

Wouldn't that solve the various issues?
Do we know if the issue is polarity, shorting while installing, inrush? Something else?

 

Checked tonight. The timer is built into the BCM. Yellow wire has 12v with light off, then goes to nearly nothing when the door is open. Then back to 12 after dome lights fade out. So my guess would be short to ground in the overhead console. If you grounded that yellow wire the dome lights would stay on.

 

Because as far as I know there is no key switches on any 16, let alone an LED to illuminate one.

On the controller side you would be surprised how much microcontrollers/flash/embedded code have come for trucks, nothing like your 95.

The "fade feature (for the dome lamp) used to be set at an RC time constant, resistor and capacitor in parallel. When power is remove the capacitor it would discharge at the rate designed by the RC time constant in the circuit. But Today? I would not put it past the designers to incorporate this into the ecu that controls the door switches and light switches. Would not be able to say for sure without a full schematic.

I think the consensus is do your product research before you install LED's on the 16. Listen to what the VLED owners have to say...

 

Only models that dont come with a traditional key switch are the sport and off-road automatics. Those wires should have the astrik next to it with a number 11 next to it. Thats how you can tell this is for a tacoma too. Tacoma is the only access cab they make and 16 is the first year of smart key. The rest of the diagram is irrelevant to dome operation except for door switch inputs and key switch for push button start. The big blue box at the top is the BCM which has the timer built into it. Either way there isnt any resetting of the BCM. Its very different from my 95 but I work on these things every day. One of the first 16 Tundras we had did the same thing. It was a short to ground in the rear dome assembly from manufacturing, after I fixed the short dome operation wouldnt work with door switch and it burnt the circuit board in the BCM.

Either way looks like a new overhead console worked. They are around $125 online so the people that screw up installing LEDs in the future when warranty wont cover it wont be out too much money.

 

Ordered mine from super bright leds, no issues as of yet. only using dome and maps

 

I wonder if an OBD2 scanner would pick up any errors??

 

So should I open up that overhead console and check the yellow wire?
I'm STILL trying to find a solution to this!