Cab & door insulation/sound deadener

What has everyone used? I'm not only looking for better sound quality, but to really quiet down all the road noise.

 

I have raamat on my front doors(inside of the outer door skin, outside and inside of the inner door skin, and some on the door panel), up to about 40% coverage on each surface. it has definitely calmed down my 8's at 200w each in the doors, alongside the high pass point of the crossover.

 

Raamat and Sounddeadenershowdown get the most positive reviews that I have seen.

 

I used RamMat in the doors, headliner, rear wall. Very happy.

 

i used Raammat with ensolite in my 2011, did all of the front door skins with the deadening, rear doors with minimal deadening, 2 layers on the back wall, 1 layer under each foot area front/rear/drivers/passenger side, and then covered the doors and back wall with ensolite.

doors would thud when shut, road noise was gone and temperatures didnt fluctuate as much.

the truck was a long travel 4x4 which i beat on pretty good while and couldnt hear all the creaks and pops from the suspension unless the windows were down

 

Shok deadener is a solid choice as well,
Allot of people here have used it, and can give feedback on their experience and results with the product

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...buy-7-has-opened.362264/page-15#post-11021729

 

Can anyone advise how far the Package #1 from Raammat will go in a double cab (i.e. enough for all 4 doors? 4 doors plus back wall?) 37.5 sq. ft. of deadener, and 41.625 sq. ft. of ensolite.

 

I did 4 DBLCB doors @ 2 sheets each, back wall @ ~80% coverage and the headliner @ ~80% coverage.

 

If you are very serious about making your cab quieter MLV, CCF, CLD.

Sound deadeners like dynamat, raammat and shok are excellent at reducing reverberation. This will quiet the cab a bit and will make music sound better at higher volumes because you are reducing resonant frequencies. But, they will not provide the sound blocking that 1/8" mass loaded vinyl will.

Lining a vehicle with MLV is tedious, time consuming and expensive. I know, I have done it twice
But, if you are serious about reducing road noise and creating a quiet cabin MLV is the only product I have used that has been effective at making the cab of a vehicle significantly quieter.

The entire interior must be gutted. This doesn't take that long, if you know how it's about an hour worth of work. But, could take considerably longer if you are really being careful.
Now you have to cut very specifically sized pieces of MLV to fit everywhere. Anywhere there is not MLV is a gateway for sound to pass through. To make a sound barrier you really have to eliminate gaps in the MLV. Which means you will have to cut strips of MLV to make patches. And to get the patches to stick you must use a very nasty vinyl cement. Measure, cut, test fit, cut, test fit, cut, patch, cut. Then once it's all in, you have to get your interior back in. Get ready to trim your beautifully crafted sound barrier to fit your carpet and trim back in. In additional to all the MLV you still have to do the regular dynamat type sound dampener because MLV will not help reverberations, in fact it could cause more vibrations rattles and noises. So you have to line the MLV with a layer of ccf to keep if from rattling against hard surfaces. So for ever piece of MLV you lay against a hard surface you need a layer of ccf to prevent it from vibrating against that surface. That's just the floor, most of the noise is coming through the thin doors. Ugh, trimming MLV and getting the door panels on is the worst. Still with me?

The result. A cab quieter than most luxury cars.

One of the things that really bothered me about my tacoma was how loud the cab was. I had been driving BMW's for the last decade before my tacoma, one of which I had lined with MLV, ccf, sound deadener. So, the noise in the tacomas cab was maddening. I'm sure you could get used to the drone of the road and the hum from the tires, but I really didn't want to. It's a joy to drive now. You can have conversations with people in the back seat without yelling while cruising 80 down the freeway. You don't have to turn the music up loud enough to do hearing damage to really hear everything (although most of us will anyways).

Are you serious about reducing road noise, not care about the cost, have a couple days to do the incredibly tedious work and plan on keeping your truck forever? Do the MLV.
You just want to keep the rattling down and make it a little quieter? Dynamat, RAAMmat, shok, SDScld tiles, KnuKoncepts Kolossus.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

I'm in the process of installing the deadener I purchased on black friday. From the facory there is like a vinyl material that is on the floor of the backseat around the storage area. Did you remove it, then put deadener on the sheet metal, or just put deadener around it?

 

I put deadener around it.

 

Way more than enough MLV can be had for about $200 or so shipped. Two sheets of good quality ccf (neoprene) rings around $60 shipped. You're wasting cld if you do 100% coverage. Melamine foam is ridiculously inexpensive. Basically there's no reason not to do it right the first time.

 

Sources?

 

Cool thread

 

Check this website out,

http://www.foambymail.com/acoustical-foam-products.html

They sell neoprene sheets in a wide range of thicknesses. I bought some charcoal foam to make my own fast rings. Fast rings are sold as a gasket between your speaker and inner door panel and they want $25 for a pair. I paid $12 or so plus shipping for a sheet 1/2x70inx40in. I might stuff the rest in the door panels or something.