MOOG Upper Ball Joints

So I'm going to get my upper ball joints replaced soon, and I want to make sure I order the correct parts...

The part number for the ball joints are as follow:

$27 K90255 Front Upper Suspension Ball Joint for Toyota Tundra

K90255

$28.79 a piece on RockAuto.

 

In the antique chevy world MOOG is considered good USA stuff. Cant help on P/N tho. Why're you replacing them?

 

sort of a thread hi jack but will be replacing lowers soon and have a few related Q's

1 - what are moog and oem lower ball joint part numbers for 4wd
2 - from what i've seen oem is around $85 online and i'd imagine more from dealer over phone. How do moog and oem compare? Are oem worth the extra cash? Has moog reliability dropped off recently?
3 - do you have to get an alignment if just replacing lowers, or just uppers?
4 - how much extra time to replace uppers, inner and outer tie rod while in there? Any write-ups? I think i know how to get lower joint and outer rod out but not sure on inner rod and upper joint
5 - do you need to use loctite on the 4 bolts that connect lower ball joint to the spindle/steering knuckle?

 

I tore up the passenger side boot when I separated the a-arm from the spindle. And the driver side is leaking very little. The driver side one would probably be fine, but I figured I'd go ahead and get both replaced at the same time.

 

On my lil sis toyota camry we did not use loc tite on bj bolt things (cant remember if it specified in the instructions (if thre was any) year or so later still holding up fine (last I heard).

EDIT-Pickle fork f'd up her bj boots as well (changin cv axle)

 

if you can replace the outter tierod end you can replace inner. The inner just screw off. I think there is a set washer or whatever its called. Basically is bends over to keep the end from turning. Break that loose and then screw the end off.

 

I wouldn't use loctite personally, just torque everything to spec when you do it. That way if you ever do have to work on something it won't be a huge pain to do...

Same thing I did, pickle fork tore through the boot, although I wasn't changing a cv.

 

Be shore to hit the out side of all the ball joints and tie rods with clear coat paint or it will rust and look bad.

 

i was thinking not to use locktite but i've seen pics where the bolts loosened up. but not sure they loosened because they were taken out and just not re-torqued correctly.

you can use the forks or pullers but from what i can tell just beating on the ball joints and outer rod joint to break them use is the way to go. but i've heard the uppers don't like to come out as easy for whatever reason.

found this sweet vid on tie rods:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVQHgcXEhpE

and other useful docs: http://parksoffroad.com/tacomamods/upballjointout/balljoint.htm
http://parksoffroad.com/tacomamods/allpro1inuni/allpro1inuni.htm
http://www.bajataco.com/tech/control_arms_01.html
apparently since the uppers are pressed in removing is more difficult, maybe not out as much but in.

 

Sticky that video....

 

Well since nobody was able to answer my question...

I went ahead and ordered them. Should be here Friday, and if they are I'll have them installed when I get my lift installed.

 

I used those moog ones you had the part number in the OP, worked fine, old out and new in around 30 mins. Super simple

 

Awesome, getting them installed next Saturday with my lift.

 

What was the verdict on oem vs moog on lower bj's?

 

I went with oem on the lowers and then moot on the tie rods both inner and outer. No problems so far. When I first did my 4wd swap I used cheapo upper bjs and they held up fine lasted until I replaced them with moots after destroying my boots on accident

 

Was this the correct product number for Moog? I'm getting ready to order today. Thank you.