New HU wiring

It's been over 10 years since I've done a HU upgrade in a car and I need a little help. First the pertinents. I've got a 2014 Tacoma without the jbl. Just the basic HU. I ordered a kenwood ddx373bt with all the wiring and the swi-rc from crutchfield. Also, I do not have a sub or external amp. I won't be installing the HU until after Christmas, but I'm getting all of the wiring ready.
My first question involves the antenna harness that was sent. Last time I did an install the factory antenna wire plugged into the HU. This one is pretty straightforward, but what about the blue wire? Does this splice in with the blues from the new HU and the harness adapter, or just the harness adapter?

Second question is a bit more involved. It has to do with the swi-rc. I saw the sticky, but that's for a 2006. Since mine is a '14 will it be different? From what I can tell from the crappy instructions, I'm going to need a resistor in series with one of the wires which is no big deal. The instructions tell me where the wires go, but not how. Do I cut and splice the wires from the interface into the harness or do I cut the wires at the harness and straightwire?

I'm really looking forward to the results, but I'm getting the feeling that I've got some frustration in my future!

 

blue wire on the antenna adapter is for if it is a power antenna if im not mistaken.

radio side of things (power/ground/acc./speaker wires) should be the same from the 06 and the 14.

for the swi-rc, just use some T taps to grab which ever color wire you need on the vehicle harness.

it's really easy once ya get everything laid out infront of you.

 

Use "bell caps" or butt connectors for connecting the radio harness.

The Pac SWI-RC comes with detailed instructions and tips. It specifically says not to use t taps in the instructions. Just take your time reading thru all the instructions before you start cutting and connecting.

When you're done installing everything and programming the Pac interface, test to make sure everything works before you put it back together.

I suggest you get this metro usb and aux in adapter to replace the oem one http://www.metraonline.com/part/AX-USB-35EXT
Its says its 6ft long, but its actually closer to 3ft which should be long enough

 

EricU, I've got all of the blues tied together. I was thinking that power antenna meant the old retractable ones from the 90s, but wasn't sure. Figured it wouldn't hurt anything so I just tied them all together.

Purpleman, the instructions I received weren't very detailed. Either that or they're too detailed. For example, they tell me to take one of the wires in the factory steering wheel harness and go to chassis ground. That's no big deal, just take it back to the HU ground. Funny thing is, the swi-rc has a double black (ground) that they don't mention in the instructions. I'm thinking that I can use that as the ground for the factory wire, but not sure. I'm hoping it's going to get a lot easier to follow once I get the factory unit out. As far as bell caps go, that's what I was planning to do until I realized I had to solder in a dadgum resistor. I picked up a 30 watt soldering iron, which was a mistake because it takes so long to heat up, and soldered all the connections together. About half way through it occurred to me that I had been sitting in that chair for the better part of an hour and a half and should have just done the bell connectors on everything else. BUT, me being the cheap ass that I am, I wanted to get my money's worth out of the soldering iron. What's really going to piss me off is when something doesn't work. LOL. Also, crutchfield sent me some sort of usb extension that's about 8" or so long, plus the usb cord on the new HU is pretty long. I hope it's long enough.

 

Well, I've studied and studied and done research upon research and said the heck with it. I've been seriously confused because there are essentially 3 sets of instructions for the install of the SWI-RC on the Tacoma and all of them conflict each other. Two of them come with the interface, the other is online.
I decided I would call Crutchfield this morning and the guy was extremely helpful. I guess it's because I had a half-assed idea of what I was doing and just needed clarification. I only say this because my tech support experience in the past has been anything but supportive. So this is what I have to do, or at least I'm going to try to do and hope that it works.

Red on interface to red at HU.
Black on interface splits into 2 black wires. One to HU black and one to pin 23 on the factory steering wheel harness (white/red)
White wire from the interface to pin 21 (purple/white)
White/Black Wire from interface to pin 22 (yellow/black)
White/Red on the interface to pin 24 (black)

No stupid resistors, or further head aches for me. At least I hope so. I will post back when I've tried it. Wish me luck!

 

Just don't tie the blue wire with the blue/white wire. Solid blue is your power antenna lead (for vehicles with the old school retractables), the blue w/ white stripe is the remote turn-on for aftermarket amplifiers and such.

 

Yeah, blue/white is separate. Thanks!

 

Does the info that came with the SWI-RC come with info for Tacomas newer than 2010? I looked on there sites programming guide pdf and only saw up to 2010.

 

I tried using an Axxess ASWC on my 07 and had pretty poor results. volume buttons don't work, and other buttons don't really do what they're supposed to. I worked with Axxess support, flashed firmware, moved my ground around, redid all my connections, reinstalled the factory HU to verify they worked with it. Still nothing. I'm going to try a Maestro next and hope for better results.

 

I don't remember how I found it, but I was able to find one for a 2011 the other day. I'm pretty sure it's all pretty standard as far as the vehicle wiring is concerned. PAC made a change at some point to the SWC's and they've added a white/red wire in there. You can use that as opposed to using the resistor, but you have to add one more connection. ****DISCLAIMER**** From what I can tell anyway. I have yet to start the actual wiring process in the vehicle. If I have enough light when I get home in a bit, I'm going to have a look and maybe get it done.

 

If this thing doesn't work, I'm likely to see how far I can punt it! I mean hell, the head unit isn't that far away from the steering wheel to begin with!

 

I pulled the dash apart and good Lord what a mess of wires. From what I can tell, I, going to have several "left overs". Pretty sure I've got it figured out, but i still have a couple of questions. Which harness has the reverse wire in it, and what color is it. Also, where is the park switch wire. Or can I bypass it?

 

I missed this post ( i was probably buzzed), when I asked about the info.

And You can use t taps for connecting them, I asked my co worker thats been installing for 15yrs and he said its fine. He's never had a problem using t taps. Pac doesn't recommend it probably because the t taps can cause a little resistance.

There's a parking brake micro bypass that they sell on Amazon for around $13, if you don't want to tap the parking brake wire.

 

I don't have a problem tapping wires, I just don't know where they are. I've done more research on that subject and it appears that the parking switch is in the kick panel. No problem there. The reverse lamp power is down there too, but there's got to be a harness in the dash behind the HU for it too.

 

Well, I got it installed. Wiring everything up wasn't too complicated. The worst part was keeping all of the wires straight. Only problem is that the SWI-RC isn't working, or at least my steering wheel controls aren't responding to anything. I might have to go in a program each individual function, but it sure is frustrating to spend that much time researching the topic and getting it figured out only to have it not work.

Also, does anybody have a picture of the harness/wire in the kick panel where I wire in the camera wire from the HU and the park wire? Guy at crutchfield told me it was a gray 12 pin connector. Maybe it was just the lighting, but it looked like there were 2 or 3 gray connectors in there and none of them were 12 pin.

 

If you get a photo of where you wired your camera to, will you post up a photo. I'm changing my single din to a double this week

 

I sure will. Just have to do it first. Did your truck come with a factory camera?

 

Negative. I'm doing an aftermarket one. Mines an SR5

 

then I'm not completely sure. You'll have to run wires all the way back to the camera and then to the HU. I've seen several of those threads in my search for info though.

 

I just installed a double din Kenwood today. No luck getting the factory camera to work on the new unit. I ran out of time to keep screwing with it. Here is a link to a thread on this topic. There were 2 different ways....I tried the 2nd. It didn't work for me.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/oem-camera-connection-below-dash.30889/