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Car Camping / Trip Reports / Photos / Buildouts / “Overland” / Expedition Rigs Area (homeless?)

Discussion in 'Off-Roading & Trails' started by BuzzardsGottaEat, May 16, 2012.

  1. Dec 10, 2015 at 12:42 PM
    #5421
    la0d0g

    la0d0g Its 4 o’clock somewhere

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    running for the hills
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    For crawling not hauling
  2. Dec 10, 2015 at 12:45 PM
    #5422
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    [​IMG]


    I will add, I'm by no means a fair comparison to the majority of the people that own big brand tunable shocks on TW. I'm hard on my truck, hard on my shocks, and my expectations of what a shock can do is...asinine. My rebuild frequency is nothing compared to anyone other than those that put their vehicle though what I do.
    The simple fact is there's no single right answer. If your primary needs are a set it and forget it shock for mild wheeling twice a year, dropping the money on a set of Foxes, Kings, Icons, etc. is overkill. If your primary concerns are getting the most out of your shock meet your driving style and needs, then there's no question you should get a rebuildable and revalvable shock. Regardless, nothing off the shelf is built to you and your truck, not even the vendors that valve for your particular application. Yes they can get damn close, but at the end of the day ride characteristics are subjective. In my experience, the vast majority of people can't even tell a difference when they have a blown shock, let alone a subtle revalve.
    Rebuild intervals vary completely depending on terrain and usage. I have to do my front bypasses almost annually because I cook the oil, but most people can get by with 30-50k miles and 3-5 years. You can buy a lot of monotube shocks for the price of Kings and one rebuild 5 years later. But if you are out in medium to go-fast terrain, shock fade is inevitable on a monotube. But again...I've found very few that can actually notice their shocks are fading.
    Not persuading or dissuading anyone against their purchase. My suggestion, as it always is, is to identify what you want out of your vehicle, make a hard look at how long you plan to keep your vehicle, and make your purchase based on that. For some, form will always outweigh function and purchasing decisions are made on that. But not everybody needs bling bling resis.
     
    ebbs15, MJonaGS32, DoorDing and 3 others like this.
  3. Dec 10, 2015 at 12:51 PM
    #5423
    Leppz

    Leppz Well-Known Member

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    Ryan
    Vancouver, BC
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    Just use a tarp and a easy up. I usually just set up my 10x10 easy up behind my truck and just run a tarp off that over the cap. This creates a nice dry area behind the truck for cooking and stuff plus you can keep your back hatch and tailgate open without water running in.

    image.jpg
     
  4. Dec 10, 2015 at 3:08 PM
    #5424
    jpneely

    jpneely Well-Known Member

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    yea that was my plan B if i couldnt find a plan A. oh well. tarps are great things!
     
  5. Dec 10, 2015 at 3:38 PM
    #5425
    Evenflow

    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    Yes
    LOL talk about the pot calling the kettle black...you pipe in your " personal opinion facts " all over this forum with frequency and you are the one that refuses to accept others input by a mile. I have no idea WTF I did to offend you personally but you seem to be butt hurt over a body bushing conversation in which you again posted some conflicting information over someone that had actually owned the product for a couple of years and then you again refused to believe anything the owner of the product had to say.

    1. Nobody was talking about affordability the original question was simply if resi's were overkill and your response made it sound as though resi's were pointless unless you were go fast desert running which is not factual.

    2. You and others mention shock rebuilds, revalving and rebuild time as if it is a constant issue when in fact it is not. The average Joe purchasing a pair of shocks or CO's from someone such as DSM is going to consult with them and order them valved properly and install and forget about them until the oil needs to be changed years later.
     
  6. Dec 10, 2015 at 3:44 PM
    #5426
    Evenflow

    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    My apologies, not directed at you solely, I should have multi quoted. I just hate to see when people are so quick to jump on telling folks not to invest in higher end products...then like the vast majority of us have experienced they blow their money on lower end or mid level stuff only to still end up shelling out the $ for higher end stuff later. I agree with your response entirely I just think there is a slight bit of over emphasis on the rebuilding and tuning bit when it comes to the average Joe...average Joe is going to order them, bolt them in and change the oil in 3-5 years.
     
  7. Dec 10, 2015 at 3:46 PM
    #5427
    G.T.

    G.T. Official TW Burrito Inspector

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    Some stick on chrome from pep boys
    Neat.
     
    Estark25 likes this.
  8. Dec 10, 2015 at 3:51 PM
    #5428
    Dr. Cornwallis

    Dr. Cornwallis Well-Known Member

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    Flarrrrrrrida
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    Box rocket, I know you said you're not a big proponent of coil overs. What would you recommend? OME? The price of the cool overs isn't so much my concern as the time/frequency it takes to rebuild them. My truck is my DD and sees about 17k a year in miles.
     
  9. Dec 10, 2015 at 3:56 PM
    #5429
    Box Rocket

    Box Rocket Well-Known Member

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    In response to #1....putting price aside, reservoir shocks are fairly pointless unless you're using them in "go fast desert running" or similar conditions where you are heating the shocks to a point where a typical shock would start to fade. Reservoirs purpose is to have higher volume of oil so that it doesn't heat up and fade as easily. So you can continue to argue if you wish but it is in fact "factual".

    In response to #2: Nobody said rebuilding shocks was a "constant" issue, but an issue nonetheless. You are correct that the "average Joe" is going to run the shocks with whatever valving they are at when they get them. But that's kinda like buying a Ferrari to drive 2 miles down the road to work and back where the speed limit is 25mph. In both cases you've spent a ridiculous amount of money on something capable of much more than you do with it, and something more reasonably priced would accomplish the same task just fine. Like someone else said, my opinion is that if you don't have the shocks tuned properly for your vehicle and for your driving style and conditions, you wasted a bunch of money.

    I don't have a problem with anyone that wants high-end shocks. With the right effort and knowledge they can be worth the expense for the right person. But there is still an attitude by many on this forum that everyone should be running Kings or some equivalent and if they're not they have "junk" suspension. The fact is that a very large majority of people on this forum do not use their trucks in a way that would justify the cost of expensive high-end shocks so there's no need for them to have them. If you feel like you use your truck in a way that justifies having them, cool, I applaud people who actually get out and use their trucks hard. But not everyone does and that's ok too.
     
    Capt. Obvious, DoorDing and jberry813 like this.
  10. Dec 10, 2015 at 4:02 PM
    #5430
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    Huh? OME's are coilovers. Tacoma's come from the factory with coilovers.
     
    DoorDing likes this.
  11. Dec 10, 2015 at 4:05 PM
    #5431
    Box Rocket

    Box Rocket Well-Known Member

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    It's not that I'm not a big proponent of ADJUSTABLE coilovers. I like them in the right conditions. The reason I did not use adjustable coilovers on my own truck is because here in Utah on a daily driven truck they get destroyed by the salted highways in the winter. I've seen more sets of completely rusted and useless coilovers around here than I can count. Does that mean they're inferior? Nope not at all. The adjustability and tune-ability of coilovers is a great feature. I merely chose to use something different (OME in my case) that wasn't going to require annual rebuilds, which is what it takes around here to keep them in good working order. If I lived in SoCal or Arizona with a warm climate where I didn't have to worry about corrosion, I would have purchased a set of good coilovers. It's the same reason I chose to use LR UCA's with a sealed balljoint. Not that they're better than uniball UCA's, but because the uniballs get destroyed in the winter.

    So my opinion is to look at your environment, your budget, the amount of maintenance you feel is acceptable and most importantly how you intend to use the truck and purchase the right stuff that meets your criteria. Don't just go buy KINGS or even Icons just because everyone on the internet says they're cool.
     
    Capt. Obvious, DoorDing and jberry813 like this.
  12. Dec 10, 2015 at 4:11 PM
    #5432
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    @Box Rocket Staaaaaaaahhhhhhhhp

    Your opinion is like an asshole. Wait, I mean I'm an asshole. No...wait...yes. :cookiemonster:
     
    DoorDing, Acerwin and G.T. like this.
  13. Dec 10, 2015 at 4:11 PM
    #5433
    Box Rocket

    Box Rocket Well-Known Member

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    Oh and had I kept my Tacoma I'd be upgrading to the new OME BP-51 coilovers and shocks. They're not KINGS, but seeing them in person the quality is nice with some cool features and they're a good step up between "typical" OME or Bilstein setups and true High-end suspension. I consider them high-end *non-race* suspension.
     
    Acerwin likes this.
  14. Dec 10, 2015 at 4:12 PM
    #5434
    Box Rocket

    Box Rocket Well-Known Member

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    Your are right. I apologize. I have been used to keeping my mouth shut but we all have weeknesses and I relapsed. Sorry.
     
  15. Dec 10, 2015 at 4:17 PM
    #5435
    la0d0g

    la0d0g Its 4 o’clock somewhere

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    jberry813[QUOTED] likes this.
  16. Dec 10, 2015 at 4:17 PM
    #5436
    GreeGunc

    GreeGunc Full of regret

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    2lo mod. PIAA 510s. Green Floor Lights. Green dash swap. Axle dump exhaust. Husky floor mats. Moto metal mo970's. Shrockworks. Sundown sa-8. 9.5xrc. Kings
    Getting off the shock talk, 265s, 255s, or 285s. Truck has 4.30s and a DD, sees dirt or trails once a month maybe.
     
  17. Dec 10, 2015 at 4:18 PM
    #5437
    G.T.

    G.T. Official TW Burrito Inspector

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    Directions unclear, coil over stuck in the...
     
    jberry813[QUOTED] likes this.
  18. Dec 10, 2015 at 4:19 PM
    #5438
    jberry813

    jberry813 Professional Fluffer Moderator

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    ...too much shit to list.
    Please provide the rest of the numbers. Otherwise we're all going to have to use the force to answer.
     
    ebbs15 likes this.
  19. Dec 10, 2015 at 4:27 PM
    #5439
    Crom

    Crom Super-Deluxe Member

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    Jason I don't know what's wrong with you. There is something very wrong. Figure it out buddy, best of luck, and I mean that. :thumbsup:
     
  20. Dec 10, 2015 at 4:33 PM
    #5440
    Evenflow

    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    And even further away from shocks...jerry cans. I am on my second set of cans, first set were plastic ( one for water one for gas ). The gas can had a horrible nozzle and was not CARB compliant so I " upgraded" to some nice metal cans this past year. When I received the cans I gave them a good rinse before using them and as I filled them with water a very strong chemical smell came out of the cans. The first few rinses the water had a red color to it. I felt the inside of the nozzle and looked inside with a light and could not see any rust it seemed as though whatever coating was on the inside was not good ? Each time I have used them I rinse them clean but after just a few days everything turns red again. Took a trip a few weeks ago and rinsed them out a couple days before the trip and the water was clear coming out, let them dry out and filled them ( 1 gas / 1 water ) the day I left. Approx 48 hrs later I went to use the water and it was very red again ?

    At this point I am assuming the coating on the inside of the cans is bad and I need to just throw these away ? Any suggestions ? brands, retailers ? Stick with plastic to avoid this ?
     

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