2nd Gen Tacoma V6 Solid Motor Mounts

Got mine, may try to do install this week.

 

Yes I build them to order. Price is $400 a set. My PayPal is ryan_tfg@hotmail.com

 

Thanks. I'll send funds this payday (friday)

 

So, is there room to gain some ground clearance if you were to chop the frame side mounts off and weld in a cross member higher up? Your design is clearly made to be bolt in, but it looks like the whole thing could be compacted vertically quite a bit by moving the whole thing up.

 

You mean the trans crossmember? doubtfull. You'd have to move the engine mounts up to, and then you'd be throwing all of your driveline angles off, and I doubt there's much room to move stuff up.

 

I think he is saying shorten the mount where the tranny actually sits and move up the cross member and not the whole tranny....

 

Correct, trying to get more ground clearance.

 

If you look at this pic, the bushing shell could be closer to the crossmember, and the V that attaches to the tranny could be closer to the shell as well.

 

Only problem with that is look at your tranny pan. It is barely above the crossmember so that is what protects the pan.

 

Hmm, I'll have to take a look at that part of the equation. Custom skids will be built around it, but you are absolutely right that it can't be higher than the pan.

 

You would also lose the structural integrity of a straight bar across, and then you'd have stuff at angles.

 

Clearly not just a straight piece, gussets triangulated and all that good stuff.

Here is one from a SAS 4Runner

 

Those are new mounts to the frame as well. So yea, you can get more high clearance if you want to start chopping your frame mounts off. I don't think that's what we're doing here.

 

Looks pretty straight to me

 

Clearly not this product, that's not what I asked. These guys spent quite a while designing this and I'm sure have a good idea on the clearances, spacing etc. going on around the tranny.

 

With the design of the lower hanging parts of the frame and drive train, there was really no point to design the crossmember with added ground clearance in mind. I did spend some time debating this and measuring the lower hanging frame points of the Tacoma. First off, this is for a 2wd truck, so dragging on rocks going slow isn't really the intended purpose. 90% of the people that will buy this part just want a solid mounted drivetrain that will allow them to go fast and jump. However if you were to do some moderate rock crawling with a 2wd truck, (it can and has been done lol) your front lower A-Arm crossmember, transmission pan, and rear axle would still hit the rocks before my transmission crossmember would. When I design the 4wd crossmember at some point, adding ground clearance may be an option as long as it makes sense to make a more complicated part (and by that more expensive to the customer) if the ground clearance for rock crawling is really a selling point. There is a lot of ways to make this part, but for 100% bolt in purposes, strength with the straight across design as said as well as keeping costs down to the end user, I think its a good compromise.

 

installed the passenger side mount. Was pretty easy. Driver side though I think I'm going to take it to a shop. Lol looks like more of a pain than I feel like dealing with.

 

The working space was pretty cramped on that side. I remember there was some wire harness that was kinda in the way, made it a bitch getting a wrench in there. I think it took me about 2 hours to get the driver side installed.

Understand that it's much easier to line up everything with all the bolts started but loose on all mount holes. If you bring the truck to a shop and the passenger side mount is tight to the frame and block, they might have a difficult time lining up the holes for the driver side due to the motor not wanting to move around very much. I'm not sure if they will consider that when installing the driver side. There should be free movement of the motor to install both side mounts.

Also, blue or green Loctite should be used on the bolt threads that go into the aluminum block.

 

How did you pull the stock mount out? Straight down around the diff?

 

i was able to get a socket on the block bolts on the driver side @sytfu510 with a long extension out the wheeel well.