Oregon and Washington BS thread

I just cant justify paying a shop what they want just to bleed them.

i do remember being younger (like 8 years old) when my dad tried to bleed the brakes on our Tahoe at the time. Never did get it right till he took it in. Luckily i follow a youtube channel and they guy is a one man mechanic shop and uses the above method to do his brakes. Works perfect. I just had to replace a brake caliper on my car and bleed the brakes and used the method above and had zero issues.....well other than discovering the master cylinder is bad.

 

Hmm well that method does seem smarter. Thanks for the tip!

Btw I only paid like $40 or so to get my brakes rebled

 

40 bucks is 40 bucks. When you can pay 10 bucks and do the same thing a shop does...Ill spend the 15 minutes it takes to do the job and do it myself. The 10 bucks being for a big bottle of Dot3 or 4 (i use 4) brake fluid from Napa.

30 bucks saved is a nice savings for gas or whatever.

I know when i asked the shop i take my car nd truck to for stuff i cant do they said 100 bucks jut to switch brake lines and bleed he system. Cant blame them as they need to make money but im not paying that for an easy thing!

 

I've done that method, but I've always been told that guy 1 has to have the brake pedal down while guy 2 opens the bleeder, guy 2 closes bleeder, guy 1 releases brake. Process repeats until no air.

The HF tool isn't worth beans, I tried it and later learned it's really not a possibility on anything more than really small cars. At least now I have a motorcycle brake bleeder, right?

 

Think its the same whether you do the open bleeder then press down and close on a depressed pedal or do the brake down then open bleeder. Both accomplish the same thing which is to move brake fluid.

i only do it the way i listed cause thats how you have to do it when solo.

 

Time to dig into my clutch; think I'm going to try and source an AISIN replacement from my local NAPA. Still a bit boggled by the symptoms that the truck has... hoping I don't find a nastier surprise when I go to open everything up.

Oh; Iceland sucked, too...

 

Is that a Fjord? Sorry, I couldn't help it. Yeah your clutch issues are perplexing. I know this doesn't help much as the links are dead, but it can get you pointed in the right direction. http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/02900410.pdf
the overall manual- http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/repair.html

 

HOLY TARS

 

Yeah, I bet airing those up takes quite some time!
And they are $$$$

 

The Arctic Trucks that I saw all sat on 37s, 42s and 46s! I rode in a 2003 Patrol Diesel... Thing was bad ass.

Lots and lots of LCs and Hilux's with D4Ds...

 

Saw a clean ext. cab at lunch today with flared fenders and TW sticker in the back window today in Eugene, Oregon

 

Whaa... another local? Apparently ross and myself have even more TW peeps around lol

 

I just use a little hand vacuum pump I got somewhere for about $15. Just like Nick says except after refill I just lay under the truck and pump into a container until new fluid comes out. No mess, and I don't have to get in and out of the truck 20 times. Plus, I am one of the few people who can drink while laying down, so, win-win!

 

I never had luck with vacuum pumps. Always had leaks Then again they were always the cheaper ones

 

Ok, I admit I only used it once a 100k, but it worked pretty well for a cheap POS. on the other hand, I did take about 2 hrs to do the job whereas doing it the normal way with me bleeding and wife pumping brakes takes about 30 min.....but it was cold and she refused to come out to the garage.
Also, as they say on "Cops" " alcohol may have been involved"

 

I borrowed the one i tried. Looking back i think the key is to replace the tubing every so often. Im not sure how many times the tubing had been used on the one i tried but it went on the bleeders super easy.

 

So my truck has thrown a p0606 code 2x now. ECM code. My question is, when the time comes to replace it, will any 05-11 v6 ecm work? Or does it need to be specific to my truck? IE: 06 dcsb o/r for the locker to work and various other features?

I realize I'll have to have my keys reprogrammed. I'm thinking if I can find a ecm with a key already, I should be able to use the key that matches that ecm to program my existing keys.


Hmmmm. Reading into it, it may be that one of my rear o2 sensors is shorting out.

 

What do you guys think? I'm pretty tempted. I don't care about the bed, it would get a flatbed even if the bed were untouched. New farm truck/ tow rig.

 

That looks like a lot of work to fix. I'm surprised nothing but cosmetic is wrong.

 

That's my issue, have to make sure its just cosmetic damage. As long as the structure of the cab is straight its relatively easy to clean up. Doors and fenders are easy to take on and off. Hardest part will be finding replacements.