What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Photo bucket is being a bitch and won't let me upload pics.. but today i removed my rusted and peeling flimsy sheet metal of a gas tank skid and put a low range offroad skid in its place. Also started cleaning up the mess from my cv. I swear the thing shot out a grease bomb when the boot ripped because everything on the passenger side is covered in grease

 

Lol I remember cleaning mine up after they both shit the bed. Get the big gobs with a rag and then use brake cleaner for the rest.

 

Haha dang. I've never swapped CVs myself but watched a buddy do it one time, something about a brass drift... do I need to drain the diff I'm gonna be replacing both sides at the same time. And do you know of a good write up on tacoma world that I can reference if I get stuck?

 

I just pulled the CV and shoved a rag in the diff, a bit leaks out but you can top it up later. You only need a brass drift if your going to pull the whole hub off, the hub face comes off effortlessly once you pull the bolts out and then you can pull the LBJ bolt out and move the knuckle far enough away to get the CV out. I don't have a write up but @BDN might know of one.

 

Ok thanks. I'll probably pull the whole hub off on the passenger side because it needs to be greased, hasn't been turning very easily lately to lock in the hub.

 

That part you are describing can be greased just by taking the face off, you only take the rest off to grease the bearing and idle surfaces that are farther in.

 

Here is a full page on how to do anything to your first gen https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-thread-compiled-list-of-helpful-links.95271/

 

The wheel bearing? What do you mean by idle surfaces lol

 

When the hub is unlocked your CV needs to be able to just turn or not turn separate of the wheel, the surface it sits in and moves within is the idle surface (probably not its technical name but you get the picture) the wheel bearing is even farther back and non greasable as it is a sealed pressed in unit.

 

Thank you. I find this writeup very helpful.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/out/?url=http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/cv_axle/

 

Ive seen them go for 250-800 complete. Id never pay over 400. Not worth it at that point. May as well get a bigger stronger ARB.

 

Installed new J59 deavers and OME 880's with Nitrocharger Sports. Very big improvement. Details over on the 1st gen OME thread.

 

Well you're in the minority who really knows their shit lol! I'll put it on Craig's list for around 8 or 9 and then work from there and see what happens! I'll probably take around 5 for it if it comes down to it!

 

Installed oem chrome grille and undercover classic bed cover...


Before

After

 

Finished up the wiring for my interior switches, I now have interior cab controls for the winch, and I installed Amber strobe lights under the headlights, waiting for a few white and amber lights to be installed in the grill and rear bumper.

 

I had a bunch of guys crying cause I was asking 600 on mine.

 

yea again. 400 is max id pay. For 600 its like 300 more for an ARB. And its a stronger diff and axle. Plus you'll get OBA out of it. Win win win

 

My fear, and hatred, of dash rattles is not happy right now.

 

Depends on what ya need. I bought a complete axle because my axle rusted through and was leaking and replacing an elocker axle is easy when an elocker was in place.

If you're buying it just for a selectable locker, go ARB

 

Oh I agree, I wouldn't pay more then 4, but I've never seen one go for that. an arb cost quite a bit then 300 more.