Polyurethane Radiator Support Mounts (Cab Also)

K. If we ever meet again, i'll show you how your frame is bent. You have no frame strengthening up front, its bent when you do shit like this. Thanks for nothing.

Also, I can play some more!
This is you on single shock icons? Bent frame. Kthanx

 

You know, the cracks where they were on mine was just half the story, when I installed my URD intake revealed themselves right under the radiator support upper bar. So there are more places that it can crack than places that we immediately notice. I mean if you want to take the risk, it's your truck Jeff, I'm not sure if you are doing dual batteries or not, but in the stock location I strongly believe that's a big no no zone. The fender wells are one piece as well and as we have all seen, over time they begin to collapse under the weight of one battery alone.

I think the bushings play a large part in it too since the rubber used is so soft and sloppy.

I say this after all the ones I have seen and all the stories I consistently get feedback on from the body shops I speak with. There is no layered metal in the front. They are mostly one stamped piece of sheetmetal in the front, unlike the cab itself, where there are several layers. With as crappy as the roads are out here where we live and in other parts of California, people in other states are in likely a worst off situation.

You aren't the only one opposed to the idea either, so it wasn't you only that I was referring to.

That's a smart move there. Better safe than sorry.

Oh one more thing. Make sure you add some additional grounds on the passenger side of the engine bay. You can use braided steel grounded straps in 4 guage (or 2 or 1/0) to hook up the body to the engine, and the frame to the engine as well. I had some weird electrical bugs without them even though everything was hooked up, but when you relocate the battery the stock grounds are no longer large enough to handle the distance from the frame in the back to the frame in the front. My slow cranking at colder temps are now gone because I added them.

Holy shit. Lol.

I wouldn't immediately say that frames are bent just based on the sliding the hand under the steering rack test. Then again I'm not a body and frame specialist, so there is always chance that that test alone condemns the frame.

 

Well, you slide your hand under non bent trucks with plenty of room lol

 

Buckaroooooo Banzai ! Kids this is why stout rebound valving is important

 

Yes but the rack sits on bushings, and as voided and sloppy those are, who is to say they aren't causing the rack to sit closer to the frame either? Just a thought.

Better to do that shit now, than to pay for it later. Aren't you caging the truck anyways though?

 

Compression also. Lol.

 

Come on man, bushings aren't going to account for 1/2"-1" of engine movement lol. Plus if bushing got sloppy they would cause the rack to sag down, widening the gap, not closing it up. So either your motor mount bushings are toast, or the frame is bent. If you jump your truck and you're not LT with proper valving, 99.99% of the time you've tweaked the frame up front. personal experience.

 

What would the engine have to do with being tied to the rack? They are both mounted on your frame seperately. Also, there are two bushings holding the 2nd gens racks in place, both which have huge voids in them. I'm sure you know the whole 1/4 of lateral play as you turn the rack left to right. Who is to say it's also not allowing the rack to sink in closer to the frame keeping your hand from going in freely you know?

Even the LT dudes suffer bent frames. So I mean that argument is kind of null at this point.

 

Actually that picture above I have icons and bypass shocks installed. If you zoom in you can see my TC LCAs and i installed the bypasses at the same time the Lcas went on. The video you posted I didn't. Regardless there is no comparison between the video of my jump and the lawn dart you performed.

 

Ok. Enjoy your bent frame.

 

Sorry, wasn't clear. My second battery in going in the bed. Stock stays where it is. I drive slower than James May, so I think I'll be ok.

 

Well I wouldn't say that this conversation is necessarily off topic. It's all related to the radiator support mounts so I think a little debate in here is not too much of a bad thing.

 

Thanks 12TRDTacoma, I checked this on my 06 with 43K miles and I could feel the rubber was disintegrating to the touch. Parts arriving tomorrow. Thank you!

 

Just did mine this weekend, small ones up top.

The feel is so much better than before.

 

Seems like you two dune hoppers also need the shock tower reinforcement bar, which @SconnieHailer posted in his build thread. Basically a strut tower bar all 'roided out.



And radiator bushings.

 

Eh, I'm getting a full engine crossbrace made up attaching secondary shock mounts together. One that goes over the engine with proper design and gusseting, to properly brace the towers.

 

Aren't we talking about the same thing?