Changing differential fluid - A step by step "HOW TO"

Damn this is a long thread. I read the first 10 pages and this last one..

I need to change my gear oil again on my 08 Sport. I've been using the Mobile 1 LS oil and I've never noticed any gear chatter of any sort. Should I go to the royal purple or keep using Mobile 1 LS? I've never used and additives either since Mobile 1 supposedly has some in there already.

Also, is it safe to switch back to dino oil after using Mobike 1 (if I should decide to go that route)??
I also use my truck to launch my ski, so I suppose it's getting exposed to some possible water through the axles (???)

Thanks!

 

If you have not had any issues or chatter, I'd stick with what you've been running.

As for dino oil, I don't see why there would be an issue with this other than you'll need to change it more frequently than synthetic.

In fact, today I changed my diff's and transfer case oil for the 2nd time (thanks to this thread!) with Valvoline Synthetic with the added lsp stuff. Oil coming out had roughly 30 - 31k miles on it. The front and rear diff's fluid was till golden in color. The transfer case's oil was a bit darker but still looked pretty clean. Of course I am not going to have the gear oil analyzed but I'd bet it still had a lot of life left in it. Next 30k mile interval change, I'm going to crack the bolt loose and collect a little bit of the oil and send it off for it be analyzed.

 

Ok, it's my first time to change the rear diff oil. I changed it to Mobil 1 LS amd I started noticing issues or chatter on my rear diff when turning.

Should I change the oil immediately to the non synthetic oil and add LSD additive?

Will it go away?

Worst thing to happen if not fixed right away?

Thank you.

'06 Tacoma 4x4 double cab

 

some diffs just don't like syn fluid - i'd change it to dyno oil

 

Not sport. But I used Mobil 1 LS which it says in the bottle it already have some additive in it.

 

My apology sir but what is a dyno oil and where can I buy it?

 

I'm NOT a sir!!!

Dino oil is just non synthetic gear oil

 

I was always under the impression that the ls meant it was compatible with ls additives, not ok if used alone. Either way I would get a good conventional oil and add a ls additive, IF it's a mechanical lsd

 

Yes ma'am, sorry I called you sir not paying attention. It was OEM diff.

 

1 more thing, is any of LSD additive compatible with dino oil or is there a particular that works better?

I appreciate y'all help. Very informative.

 

What was the result?

 

UPDATE: After having problems with Mobil 1 LS

$29 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W-90 with my rear diff, I finally replaced it with Lucas SAE 80W-90 + trans-X posi-trac additive and it seems to solved the problem. No mo chatter!

As for the Mobil 1 LS that I originally put in the rear diff, Instead of wasting it, I decided to use it for the transfer case and front diff.

Thank y'all for the help!

 

Everyone smarter than me,

Trying to get the fill cap to the read diff off and can't get it to budge. Put some PB on about an hour ago and still nothing.

Any tips?

(I don't have a breaker bar)

 

Get a breaker bar. Not being a smart ass. I personally didn't have any trouble with mine, but a breaker bar seems to be a necessity for use on the driveline fluids according to others. I think one guy used a jack underneath his breaker bar. For seriously seized nuts, you may have to wait more than an hour for PB to help. I dont like PB, i use Kano Kroil, but its not readily available. And no matter what you use, keep the socket square to the nut. When trying to muscle something sometimes youre not paying attention and will round it out.

 

If you have a floor jack handle or pipe you can put over the ratchet handle it may give you the additional leverage you need.

Like mentioned above, keep that socket on square. Also, I strongly recommend a 6-point socket over a 12-point socket.

 

Hey all, thanks for replies.

I tried the pipe method to no end. The PB blaster didn't help either. I realized I rounded it off a little bit by not keeping it seated.. I attached pictures. What do you
all think I should do? Hopefully, it's not too rounded and I can order a breaker bar and get it off.

(The front is the rounded part, the backs of it still have good lines. Nothing is slipping, just too hard to turn)

 

I thought you said you didn't have the SPORT? Curious why you needed additive if you didn't have a mechanical LSD?

Just an FYI: Mobile 1 LS does not have additive in it. The LS only means it's compatible to LSD diffs.

I've been running mobile 1

$29 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 with 1.5-2 bottles of XL3 friction modifier (from Ford). No issues. 2 changes and 73k miles later.

 

You need a perfectly fitted 6 point socket.

A good impact gun with a 6 point socket.

File the flats smooth so you can get a 6 point socket firmly on it.

Take it to a professional to remove it and order yourself a new fill plug.

If you bitch it up beyond recognition -a vice grip on very tightly. But you should probably take it to the professionals before getting this far F'd up.

 

I was using a 6 point 24mm.

Not sure I completely understand your last sentence, are you saying it's too far gone and I need to take it to a professional now or... If the breaker bar doesn't work take it in. The socket isn't slipping, the problem is I can't get enough power to turn it and hold it firmly seated. My plan now is to order a breaker bar and try it with PB on overnight.

I agree, time for a new fill plug.

Thanks for your input Janster.