Big 2GR-FKS engine problem

Is it the same case for the FB25 in the Forester and Outback?

 

OMG!!! he's chatting on a chat forum? Burn him!!!!!!!

 

The FB25 and FB20 both commonly suffer from premature ring failure leading to excessive oil consumption. I have not heard about it being caused by ring land failure (where small parts of the piston break off between the rings). Unfortunately, it's still a fairly common problem, I've read as many as 10% of the FB series suffered from excessive oil consumption. I was told that my '13 Outback was well within Subaru spec eating 1qt per 3k miles, don't know if that would count as part of the 10% but it sure as hell pissed me off. Traded it in with barely 3k left on the powertrain warranty.

 

That's extremely unlikely. This vehicle is plated and emissions compliant. That exemption is more for heavy construction equipment, farm equipment and off road bikes/quads/side by sides.

 

Useful information, experiences, and facts?! Does that guy even own a Tacoma?

 

This is usually how manufacturers address 1st year issues. =)

 

Thanks TacoJonn.

I literally "laughed out loud!"

 

Easy fellas.... was just busting chops.... Anyway...... I have owned 3 Tacomas and should get my 4th next week.

 

"Seems everyone is looking for a reason to hate the truck, buy it anyways, then bitch they should have bought an F150".
Yep.

 

Wait. What?

"Does that guy even own a Tacoma?"

Seriously?

You have over 3400 posts and have had a Tacoma for ~five days!?!?!?

 

I did my research

 

So the field technical specialist and engineer could not find the smoking gun on this engine as to why it was burning oil. They could not conclude if the scoring was causing it, or something else happened and it caused the scoring. Now there is a wait to decide if it will receive a short block or a long block, but either way parts are 3-4 weeks out, so a buy back is expected in this situation.

 

Thanks for the update Mike!

 

Quick question, do you check the engine oil after the truck has been running or cold?

 

Always after it has reached operating temp and then turned off. Never cold.

 

Sam not being smart or anything but does it really make that big a difference checking it cold vs. warm? I know I would rather check it before I get in it for the 1 mile trip across town to Walmart. Than check it once I came out of Walmart in there parking lot.

 

For a true measurement, you are allowing the oil to heat and get everywhere it needs to be. Doing it cold has all the oil in the pan itself and gives you a false "positive". Same with Transmission...always check trans with the motor running(after it is warm) otherwise you are not getting an accurate reading.

 

Ok so i checked the oil just as Sam told me, oil level seems fine as it should.

Anyone else have to shove that darn dipstick in? It goes 3/4 of the way in smoothly but it's that last but that you really have to shove.

 

Also, it's the first time i stared at the engine bay...i was looking at it in the same way a mother looks at her newborn taking a nap.

 

Exactly that. As the engine sits oil naturally migrates down to the pan due to gravity. Your valve train will be mostly dry and that gives a higher reading than your true level.