Help with cleaning iac

Im cleaning the iac valve on the 3.4 and i took off the solonoid for the valve. It had a rubber rtv type seal , do I need to remove old rubber and put new rtv when reassembling? Also why does my coolant side look like that? Thank you

 

should be a gasket for it, not RTV. I have the gasket for the left picture if you need it. I bought it for when I did mine only to find out my 04 was different.

also looks like those screws are stripped in the right pic?

 

thanks , but yeah I have the gasket for the left pic and I already put on the solonoid without new rtv on the right pic, I think it will be ok. The screws are not stripped they just had the grey rtv covering them

 

cool. ya I'm not sure if anything goes between the solenoid and the housing, maybe someone else will chime in

 

and the coolant side could be a stop leak agent that's gummed up. or rust. but that usually shows up with other symptoms too

 

http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~gasket~throttle~body~cover~22215-62180.html

 

u need to do a coolant system clean and flush, that's all rust and old shit in there,the whole inside of the motor and rad will look just like that.i use the system cleaner and flush at napa cleans em out good then use a extended antifreeze mix.

 

All the gunk is from someone (i hope it wasnt the OP) putting stop-leak in the radiator. Flush your cooling system with some CLR right away. That shit ruins engines.

I bypassed that whole section and capped the coolant ports on the IAC. You really are better off replacing the unit. I rarely recommend buying non OEM parts, but i got a Chinese knock off of the part for $50 as i could not afford $250 for the original. Its been months with it working perfectly.

I had a long lasting no start issue. After tracing back every wire from the ECU, i traced it to the IAC (even though the FSM never mentioned checking it).

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/no-start-engine-is-getting-spark-and-fuel-fried-ecu.387148/

 

youll find most the time the china knock off parts are made in the same factory as the oem parts just not branded with brand name ,built exactly the same with same parts how can they be diff. I have used many many in my shop business cause people cant afford the oem parts and iv never had any fail sooner than a oem. so id use aftermarket anytime to save that much money.

 

I flushed the radiator and filled it back up with the pink coolant, after cleaning the iac the idle was slightly better but not perfect and also I still have rough hot start it "appears to stumble as it is turning over and the engine seems like it makes the truck shake as it is turning over. I don't know how else to explain it." So far I have replaced spark plugs, wires, cleaned maf and new downstream o2. I searched for 3.4 hot start problem but couldn't find a solution in the threads.

 

I cant remember if those engines have a cold start injector or not do u know? if they leak it will cause that kind of problem,the 22res had them and it happened a lot?and there are two sensors that are temp sensors one for the gauge one for the ecm and if that one goes bad it can tell the ecm its hot or cold causing starting problems too

 

I dont know about the cold start injector, the temp gauge works fine so I am assuming one of the temp sensors are ok, how could i test the other one? I think the problem could also be fuel related, ill try keeping the key to on for a few seconds before cranking tomorrow and see if that changes anything

 

they might "look" the same but aren't made the same

china stuff is crap and works like crap but with the other non-china made aftermarket stuff, I agree with you that its often the same quality as oem

as a little FYI, for a good, and cheap, coolant system flush just use regular vinegar, drain coolant and add a gallon on vinegar with distilled water and let that run for a day or two then drain it all out and back flush the radiator to remove sediments that built up in it. the vinegar is a great descaling agent and will remove all that crap in there. that's why its used as the main ingredient in most descaling agents for water systems.

 

It shakes a little less when I keep the key in the on postiton for a few seconds before starting but its still not as smooth as a cold start. I noticed I dont hear the fuel pump turn on when the key is in the "on" position

 

the fuel pump is only powered when the engine is turning so its not going to run when the engine is off even if the key is on

 

Any idea what could cause the shaking hot start?

 

could be all sorts of things but leaking injectors are a fairly common cause of hot start issues

 

I found the fender redundant ground completely disconnected, but there was no difference with it connected