5 Lug Long Travel 2rz Turbo Build

I've made a pretty good list that covers just about everything. But I realize there is things I may need or not need.

Needed after if i up boost pass 5psi


Gt3076 turbo with .63 exhaust a/r cxracing - 580

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...GT3076-63-BR_FLNG-OIL-FEED-AN4&Category_Code=


Tial 38mm wastegate 5psi - 240

http://www.amazon.com/TiAL-F38-Wast...8-3&keywords=tial+wastegate+38mm+5+psi+spring


ECU/piggyback - AEM fi6 - 420

http://www.aemelectronics.com/produ...gement-systems/fuel-ignition-controller/fic-6


Boomslang harness- 400

http://www.boomslang.us/aem-fic.php


Pink top injectors - 100


Intercooler - 110

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...&Product_Code=IC-B928-KW&Category_Code=IC25CO


V-band clamps-


2 - 3" for the down pipe: - 23 each

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P28WK2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s04


x2 2.5" for the cross over pipe: need these for headers - 26 each

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P2795Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00


v band flange to go on cat to connect downpipe -18 http://www.amazon.com/FID-Turbo-3-S...ons&keywords=3''+vband+flange+stainless&psc=1


Stainless exhaust pipe



AEM Wideband o2 - 320

http://www.aemelectronics.com/products/wideband-uego-air-fuel-controllers/wideband-failsafe-gauge


Block plate for factory afr sensor - 6

http://www.lceperformance.com/O2-Block-Plate-p/1045003.htm


Toyota flange for rear o2- 12

http://www.lceperformance.com/Oxygen-Sensor-Install-Kit-2-Bolt-Style-p/1045035.htm


New muffler-180

http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts-mufflers/flowmaster-pro-series-mufflers


New cat-70

http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts-mufflers/65A6777A0A0.aspx


Cx headers and downpipe- 600(need new header gasket from toyota) Dont buy v band

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...R&Product_Code=MF-DP-5VZFE-KIT&Category_Code=


Air filter-60 - 4,6,5,1,flat,4, pro dry s

http://afepower.com/shop/custom/inc/filter.php


Pre filter - 30

http://afepower.com/shop/details_ne...searchtype=word&keyword=pre filter&brandID=50



Oil/coolant line and connectors/fittings -


Oil return

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...Product_Code=WF-AN10-STEEL&Category_Code=FUSM - AN10 bung weld on oil pan

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...R&Product_Code=OF-AN10-45&Category_Code=OLA10 - AN10 hose fittings x 2

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Oil-Dra...T4-T3-T4-AN-AN-10-10-/121748476988?nav=SEARCH

^ an10 return flange

http://m.ebay.com/itm/10-AN-Stainle...Silver-Sold-Per-Foot-/181659925441?nav=SEARCH

^an10 hose


Oil intake


http://m.ebay.com/itm/4AN-4AN-AN4-t...-OIL-RESTRICTOR-BLUE-/171625500114?nav=SEARCH

^ restrictor


http://m.ebay.com/itm/3-8-Male-x-1-...-Hex-Bushing-Fitting-/331021153861?nav=SEARCH

^Reducer that screws into the engine oil port. The restrictor screws into this.


http://m.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Oil-Fee...ting-T3-T3-T4-T04-T4-/281650539449?nav=SEARCH

^ turbo oil feed flange

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...duct_Code=OL-AN4-90S-51-FF&Category_Code=FUSM OIl line + female connectors


Coolant line

Durable Norprene Blended Rubber/Plastic Tubing, Rated for Vacuum, Flexible, Black, Opaque, 61A Durometer, 3/8" ID, 5/8" OD, 1/8" Wall, 25' Length

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BWT9QU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s003/8" ID 5/8 OD Used these clamps. Worm clamps can cut into the material (and these are much easier)

$11 5/8" Heavy Duty Double Gripping Nylon Plastic Hose Clamps, 225° F / 200 PSI Rated, 10 Pack (Made in USA/UK)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y87C9S?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00Heat exchangerhttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BWT9QU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00



Spark plugs- one or two steps cooler .40 gap- won't last long, just have to see if needed


Fuel pump- denso or http://urdusa.com/store/Fuel-Upgrad...-Tank-Pump-(E85-Compatible)/product_info.html


Cxracing 2.5" intercooler piping and connectors- 130

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...oduct_Code=KIT250-BLK-EB-U&Category_Code=PIPK


Oil catch can-100

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ADD-W1-RED-...272b1b&pid=100011&rk=2&rkt=10&sd=141097569813


stove gasket maker - mount turbo to header and exhaust flange


4 bolt flange for exhaust to mount to turbo - 14

http://www.amazon.com/Inlet-Downpip...385595&sr=8-1&keywords=turbo+3''+4bolt+flange


silicone reducer 2.75” - 2.5” for tb - 5 - x2

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...&Product_Code=SH275R250-76&Category_Code=HSCM


IPT VALVE BODY UPGRADE - http://www.importperformancetrans.c...-shift-kit-for-your-a340-click-here-1791.html

level 10 - http://www.levelten.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=TOY-JA210-5000P

 

That looks like a lot of stuff. I'm excited to watch it progress! But for maximum ricer status you have to call your levels "stages".

 

Sounds about what my list was like.
Besides I went cheap on the turbo and wired up my piggyback by hand. That alone saved me about 700 or more. Still surprised how well my pos turbo is holding up. I killed the turbo in my car but can't kill the ebay one

 

Yeah I don't know if I could justify the 400 for the harness... How hard was it to do it by hand? Could you make a harness by hand so its still plug and play? And I figured if I want a turbo to last long just as well get a decent one, but didnt want to spend a $1000. I say you have gotten luckey on your eBay one.

 

That harness is a bit of a pain. I was staring at wiring diagrams for 2 weeks and still made a small mistake. The soldering was easy. What sucked it figuring out where everything goes and making sure you did it right. I wanted to learn the ecu harness so that is why I went that route. I used the urd jumper harness.

 

The harness is worth it. Trust that

 

I figured it probably would be.

 

I'd even say save up and get the aem infinity. It's the best standalone you can buy, will tune for more power, and won't conflict with oe ecu. I'm happy with my fic tho but may upgrade some day. For the money the fic is good, was just giving a better option.

 

New head. Started tearing the motor apart. Also came across the toyota manual online to help out with the tear down.

 

What did you do to plug the bung in the oil pan when you took the turbo off?

 

This bad boy to cap off my 10an drain line.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...Wlhq32gqe4fHQvmAyAJUxA7bI3aujB2JV0aAtPx8P8HAQ

 

Got a good dent this Christmas weekend even with spending time with friends and family. The intake manifold is nice and gunky. It felt like sludge. Smelt bad too. Looks like the EGR is what causes that mess. All clean now. I pulled the old head and transferred everything over to the new head. Every bolt is getting anti seize just in case I pull things apart again. Also changed out the fuel filter. That should be good for another 160k miles. I used a stock head gasket again, but upgraded to ARP studs. I don't think I'll ever do a MLS gasket. My head is pretty rough from the factory. Head is torqued down now. Need to grab some new heater hoses. They all did not want to come off. It is a good time to replace them. Looks like the last owner gave me a new timing chain and guide. Glad I was lazy there. I only need a full day to wrap everything up. Hopefully Thursday that can happen. A few things I need to grab is injector seals, exhaust studs and nuts. 4th head gasket this year replacing, but this head gasket looked fine actually. I'm hoping next year I don't need to touch head gaskets.

 

From what I can see, everything looks really good. I admire the engineering fore-thought that went into the head casting. To allow the cam bolts to be removed. Weren't so fortunate on the 1GR. As well as the void left in the head to pull it off around the timing chain. As in a two piece timing cover.

What was the tap needed for?

 

Yeah pulling the actual head wasn't hard. Everything just pops right off and stays in place. Lifting the head back into the truck sucks. Those deadlifts at the gym paid off. The head stud are under my cams. The old head didn't look bad. It is still good for a rebuild. I need to look closer at your cyl head again. I ran a bottoming tap through the cylinder to clean up after the old head bolts before putting in my arp's. The cylinder bores still have clean hone marks in the sleeves. My 8 port intake is weird I'll take a close up of it. The injector just sprays into a wall and splashes into the intake ports. No kidding why they recommend an oval spraying denso injector.

 

Yeah. Post up that picture. Curious.

 

I'll take some better pics of the old head. The pics I have now aren't that good. They are mostly for me to look back on to remember where everything goes.

 

@Torspd check this out. On the 8 port head they drill a hole into the vane. It sprays mostly out to the side. I have the old head in a box right now but you can see it actually does cover all the walls of the intake before hitting the valves. All the black sludge is a good spray pattern marker.

 

That is quite interesting looking.

 

I think my new head casting is like that too, but maybe not. I'm gonna go look at my old head to see what the ports look like.