DA Polishing and sealant application

Hey, guys. I just ordered a Griots Garage 6" DA polisher from Autogeek. Never used one before. I got 3" and 5.5" backing plates and a handful of LC pads.

I want all of your tips, tricks, and advice. Anything and everything having to do with polishing/buffers/pad selection, etc. Let me have it!

For example: "I like Ultimate Polish with a lake country black flat pad, three section passes for light swirls"

That sort of stuff. Ya know? Help me out please. I'm gonna need it. Thank you.

 

This is a hard question to answer since you have a bunch of variables in the equation (paint, polisher, etc.).. Softer paint will take less passes and just a foam application compared to microfiber.

I started using the Rupes pads about two months ago and have had quite a bit of luck with them, especially longevity. But, if you are talking about polishing, I think Meguiars cutting and finishing disk is the best that I have used. It cuts really well.

I have never used a griots polisher before, so not sure how much help I can with the specific unit. All of my polishers work differently with speeds as well as pad use.

 

Are you saying you're using rupes pads on a non-rupes machine? Or you were using non-rupes pads on your rupes before?

Yeah i was just curious what pads/product combos guys are using. I figured all the recent taco years would have somewhat similar paint as my '14.

I'm regretting buying all the LC pads that I did. With further reading I've found a lot of guys are really happy with Megs pads.

 

The answer to your question is both. I own a Rupes machine and a Cyclo and I have used both Rupes and non Rupes pads on both. I just bought a Mark II Rupes and planning on using non Rupes pads for it.

Lake Country makes good pads, don't get me wrong. For me
Personally, I had issues with the Velcro releasing from the actual foam pad. It took some time for it to release, but I had better luck with other brands with them breaking down slower, if that makes sense. It will depend on how bad your paint is with your scratches, as well as the amount of effort you have to use while polishing. The griots polisher is a good unit and should do majority of the work for you.

 

Agreed. A lot of variables involved. Every vehicle is different and every person's technique is different depending upon machine.

 

I realize every vehicle is different. But thought if someone had a DA polish/pad combo they liked for their Tacoma, maybe that would be a good combo for me to try on mine for a test spot. I've never even held a DA in my hand, so some guidance as to what to try for a test spot on my 2014 pyrite mica will be helpful. It's got just a very few extremely light scratches here and there. And I'm sure it has light swirls from being washed weekly, but I can't see them. Good wash technique for the most part. Even in good lighting nothing really shows up for swirls.

 

Pull it out in the sun. The sun doesn't lie. Then look at it from different angles. You may not see them if you have used any products with fillers.

 

Hmm... Yeah I've looked in the sun at a lot of angles. Honestly, in the same light I can see a ton of swirls on my brothers light grey 4Runner and not many swirls at all on my pyrite taco. I do see a few very light scratches- but they're like 2 or 3 per panel and long and curved, like from a swipe with a wash mitt or drying towel. I do have two coats of ULW on it, topped with 476. So maybe that's masking some swirls?

 

I have not used either products so they could be masking. You will want to do a strip wash and clay bar before you polish anyways. If no swirls after that, then it sounds like you have a pretty solid washing process.

 

I've had great results using Optimum Polish II & a white Lake Country flat pad. Does a good job removing fine scratches & leaves the paint butter smooth. If you have something a little deeper a yellow pad or orange pad will work well then you can follow up with the white. I agree with @ace96 though, be sure to strip wash & clay your paint first. The polish will help remove any left over residue from you previous wax or sealant. Also, I highly recommend the new "clay towels". Cuts claying time in half & just wash off if you accidentally drop it. Pick one up at Amazon. They are $25 cheaper than Autogeek for the same towel. - Optimum Polish II

$43 Speedy Surface Prep - Fine Grade

http://www.amazon.com/Speedy-Surface-Prep-Fine-Grade/dp/B0091II8X8 - Speedy Surface Prep Towel

 

Thanks! Ha I guess you answered here the question I asked in the other thread- I hadn't seen this one yet when I responded to the other one.

 

after polish a quick IPA wipe will prove what you just did. It will strip the fillers and reveal the truth.

Le truth shall set thy free!

 

Any pre-wax cleansers you'd recommend instead of a dedicated polish? Since it's my first time, I'd really like to be as non-abrasive as possible. No sense in sacrificing a buffing cycle while learning my technique?

 

You might as well work with polishes you are going to use. You will need to adjust technique to the product/machine.

 

I use Adam's Polishes products. Here is the link to their videos. The polisher and pad videos are very helpful to see how to use the polisher. Having the correct pressure and speed is key. Hope this helps you out.

http://adamspolishes.com/video

 

Ace- do you ever "top" your gloss-coat with anything? Like a dedicated sealant or wax? Or just quick wax/spray type stuff?

 

Polish, finishing polish, sealant, glaze and then wax.

 

So far I have used Opti-seal over it after reading about good results on another forum.

Not always the case if using a coating which is what he is referring too.

 

Isn't a glaze typically applied before sealant/wax? Why do you do it differently?

 

Glaze after sealant. You want the sealant to bond to the paint.