5,000 Mile Oil Changes Really Necessary?

and make sure it's gold for maximum insulation LMAO

 

You're not aware of how electricty works? Thats a dead short.

 

Look up maintenance-induced failures (MIFs)

https://www.maintenanceassistant.com/blog/poor-maintenance-cost-lives/
http://www.avweb.com/news/savvyaviator/savvy_aviator_53_dark_side_of_maintenance_196909-1.html

 

Be better if it was a cockring

 

So.... every 50 miles?

 

The problem with your claim is the way people interpret the break-in procedure. Most people don't understand (a) physics, (b) instructions.

At the end of the day, there are two sets of instructions; the instruction manual, and the "internet hard" break-in. Yet those who actually read and understand the instructions will actually notice that the two "opposing" sets of instructions... are actually the same.

The instruction manual will say to keep the rpms down, yet varied, with frequent starts and stops. I.e., LOAD it, but briefly, so you don't burn the rings. People read it and misinterpret it as "soft". The "internet hard" instructions say to give it everything, let off, give it everything, let off. People read it and misinterpret it as "hard". **** BUT THEY ARE ACTUALLY SAYING THE SAME THING!!!!

 

new truck, every 3000mi, until out of warranty. after that every 5000mi., i sleep better. 3rd toyota truck, sold previous two with over 200000mi. both sold trucks didn't burn a drop.

 

And this is precisely the kind if bad information that people should be able to recognize in a second, in order to dismiss certain people as a source of bad information.

0w defines the lowest temperature at which the oil can **be pumped**. The second number, 20, 30, 40, etc., is the number that tells you how thin or thick the oil is at OPERATING TEMPERATURE.

The only one that matters *AT* operating temperature, is the second number.
The lower the FIRST number, the more easily the oil is pumped through a cold engine. I.e., easier to start, less startup wear.

In addition to the low temperature pumping point, the 0w also provides a hint about the viscosity curve. In other words, yes, it will be a thinner oil... WHEN IT IS BELOW OPERATING TEMPERATURE.

** but it will be PRECISELY the same viscosity, AT operating temperature.

The ideal oil is one that maintains a constant viscosity at ALL temperatures. The lower the first number (i.e. 0w), the closer it is to that ideal.

 

The logic here eludes me. Most would say comply with mfg requirements while in warranty, and then do what you want after that. 3k OCI will do nothing to improve your warranty support - might as was well just do 5k now.

 

ocd?

 

I have 15K on my 2014. I let Toyota do the first one at 5K then I did the 2nd one at 10K with Amsoil Signature series. I will take it to 20K then do it again. (with a filter change at 15K). I have a 2003 Suburban with 165K and a 2003 4 Runner with 226K miles. I go 25K between oil changes and neither one will burn more than 1/2 quart in that time. But do change the filter more often. The Chevy gets 18mpg & the 4 Runner gets 23 mpg. I obviously am a believer in this oil. Been doing this for almost 40 years. I own 4 vehicles and it's nice not having to worry about oil changes all the time.

 

Silver02Taco: obviously, you do not. What he was getting at, is that electricity does NOT blast out radially into anything it contacts. Electricity takes the path of least *resistance* from a high potential to a low. That means that it will only go from prong to prong. The path through finger, body, boot, ground is very high resistance. Anybody wearing such a ring wouldn't feel a thing, except possibly for a brief moment while plugging it in, if it contacts the hot terminal before the neutral. Then in far far less than 5 seconds, it would pop the breaker.

 

The logic that always eluded me, is the people who do things to their truck that might break things... always suggesting that you should wait until the warranty expires. The reason this logic doesn't make any sense, is that you're doing something that might break something. If you are under warranty, you *might* have to pay to fix it. If you are OUT of warranty, you *definitely* have to pay to fix it.

 

My point was why shorten OCI's beyond requirements while under warranty and then extend them (still within requirements) afterwards. I get the part about doing things that might break something.

 

You can get 1 gal bottles of synthetic at WalMart for like $23-$28 a pop. Great deal.

 

I got that actually.
I think you actually mean *decrease* OCI during warranty coverage. Decreased interval means more frequent changes. Aside from minor benefit from the first one or two oil changes on a brand new engine to get the manufacturing dirt and break-in particles out of the engine, I can't possibly imagine a reason to decrease the OCI, except if the engine is possibly out of spec and in need of some extra maintenance, i.e., the oil isn't actually lasting through the full interval.

 

I'm going to send my next oil change out to be analyzed. I know the first GM DI engines were very hard on oil, be interesting to see how the toyota's fair.

 

I'm going to piss you off again. I change mine every 3,000 miles using Mobil 1 and the oversized Mobil 1 filter. I can afford the extra ~$68 more a year vs. 5,000 change for the peace of mind. Is does absolutely no harm at all.

(Here comes the poop storm)

 

[QUOTE="(Here comes the poop storm)[/QUOTE]

 

I keep things simple with 6-month calendar intervals, once in Sept and once in March. Typical usage puts me at just under 4500 miles. I spend my money on car washes so the frame doesn't crap out before the engine...

I use whatever 5W30 synth that happens to be on sale - Quaker State, Mobil 1, most recently Pennzoil PurePlus. I use the same oil in my Subaru and my lawn mower.