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Power Tailgate Lock

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by rrentrop, Sep 26, 2015.

Page 9 of 33
  1. Dec 11, 2015 at 4:12 PM
    #161
    rrentrop

    #161
    rrentrop [OP] TVDvinyldecals.com Vendor

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    No worries. I honestly don't know what the color codes are. I just took the codes from the master wiring diagram. I wired mine into the pink/red and pink/green wires behind the panel between the doors. Since they originate from behind the kick panel you could tap into them under the sill if you can find them.
     
    rrentrop, Dec 11, 2015
    #161
  2. Dec 12, 2015 at 7:18 AM
    #162
    elliotts

    #162
    elliotts Well-Known Member

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    Guys, can someone help me identify the type/brand of heat reflective tape used on the electrical wiring on the undercarriage near the exhaust? It is shiney.

    Am I the only one worried about heat protecting the wires?
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2015
    elliotts, Dec 12, 2015
    #162
    Joe Green likes this.
  3. Dec 12, 2015 at 7:34 AM
    #163
    silver60

    #163
    silver60 Well-Known Member

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    All done the pink wires were the cleanest to grab so I used them and buttoned it all up
     
    silver60, Dec 12, 2015
    #163
  4. Dec 12, 2015 at 8:20 AM
    #164
    erikjon

    #164
    erikjon Member

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    Maybe I'm missing something, but can't you just twist all three wires together, solder them, then heat shrink that joint? Or put one wire in one end of the waterproof butt joint, two wires in the other end?
     
    erikjon, Dec 12, 2015
    #164
  5. Dec 12, 2015 at 8:49 AM
    #165
    Daytona Coupe

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    Daytona Coupe Well-Known Member

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    This - plus they do make heat shrink that has hot melt glue inside that will seal the connection when you shrink it.
     
    Daytona Coupe, Dec 12, 2015
    #165
    Sideways Sherry likes this.
  6. Dec 13, 2015 at 8:59 AM
    #166
    Daytona Coupe

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    Daytona Coupe Well-Known Member

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    Most home improvement stores carry a tape that is aluminum foil with an adhesive backing. It is usually found near the insulation products. That should work well for what you want to do. Actually there are a lot of good uses for this stuff.
     
    Daytona Coupe, Dec 13, 2015
    #166
  7. Dec 13, 2015 at 9:10 AM
    #167
    Splat

    #167
    Splat Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I know, but I'm a bit of a control freak when it comes to waterproofing. Having 2 cables in the same side of a heat shrink tube just seemed a weak point, but it will be the way I'll be going. I was looking for the "perfect" solution.
    Thanks!
     
    Splat, Dec 13, 2015
    #167
  8. Dec 23, 2015 at 7:25 PM
    #168
    tonymtz69er1

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    tonymtz69er1 Active Member

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    tonymtz69er1, Dec 23, 2015
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  9. Dec 23, 2015 at 7:28 PM
    #169
    tonymtz69er1

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    tonymtz69er1 Active Member

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    tonymtz69er1, Dec 23, 2015
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  10. Dec 23, 2015 at 7:28 PM
    #170
    tonymtz69er1

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    tonymtz69er1 Active Member

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    [​IMG]
     
    tonymtz69er1, Dec 23, 2015
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  11. Dec 23, 2015 at 8:42 PM
    #171
    CoeurdTaco

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    CoeurdTaco Well-Known Member

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    CoeurdTaco, Dec 23, 2015
    #171
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  12. Dec 24, 2015 at 4:40 AM
    #172
    tonymtz69er1

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    tonymtz69er1 Active Member

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    tonymtz69er1, Dec 24, 2015
    #172
  13. Dec 24, 2015 at 8:05 AM
    #173
    Daytona Coupe

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    Daytona Coupe Well-Known Member

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    I'd have to see it in person to verify that yours is different, but I think you're looking at the wrong plug/harness. If you tie into that one, you may get the signal for the drivers door only - or nothing at all. You want the signal that unlocks the other 3 doors. Take a pic of the rest of the kick panel area. Mine was running vertical near the door edge, and had an unwrapped section a few inches above the floor.
     
    Daytona Coupe, Dec 24, 2015
    #173
  14. Dec 26, 2015 at 4:07 AM
    #174
    BlkTaco47

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    BlkTaco47 Unhinged

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    BlkTaco47, Dec 26, 2015
    #174
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  15. Dec 26, 2015 at 5:47 AM
    #175
    CoeurdTaco

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    CoeurdTaco Well-Known Member

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    Yes it's act as a standard lock mechanism. I've owned a couple of trucks that I have installed these on and they are great.
     
    CoeurdTaco, Dec 26, 2015
    #175
  16. Dec 26, 2015 at 6:00 AM
    #176
    kashtyaatsi

    #176
    kashtyaatsi DieselDub

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    I don't trust myself with anything electrical anymore. Can anyone recommend a professional install near the denver(ish) area.
     
    kashtyaatsi, Dec 26, 2015
    #176
  17. Dec 26, 2015 at 10:32 AM
    #177
    Daytona Coupe

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    Daytona Coupe Well-Known Member

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    And decent car audio shop that does alarm installation should be able to handle it for you. When I used to do alarms, we did power lock installs regularly.
     
    Daytona Coupe, Dec 26, 2015
    #177
  18. Dec 31, 2015 at 10:33 AM
    #178
    Joe Green

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    Joe Green Member

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    Joe Green, Dec 31, 2015
    #178
  19. Dec 31, 2015 at 11:57 AM
    #179
    DrDaveTaco

    #179
    DrDaveTaco Well-Known Member

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    Installed the pop&lock today, works well.

    Lessons learned:
    1. There is at least 3-4 feet extra wire. I initially rolled it up and tucked it up in the dash, but it was making it hard to get the clips back on for the panel, so I cut off the extra and worked much better.

    2. The wire connectors that came with the set suck, at least were really hard to use in my opinion. After FINALLY getting them put together, tried it out and the tailgate worked perfectly, BUT I noticed the passenger side rear door would not lock (wired to passenger side front). Figured out it was a bad connection in the connector. Took them off and used good old twist on caps and works much better...and MUCH easier to use to put the 3 wires together.

    3. As mentioned before, remember for passenger side front: GREEN-GREEN, BLUE-RED

    4. The screws for the tailgate are into a plastic housing, don't over tighten as they strip easily.

    The lock mechanism is pretty loud, but the convenience is worth it IMO. Very worthwhile mod.
     
    DrDaveTaco, Dec 31, 2015
    #179
  20. Dec 31, 2015 at 12:01 PM
    #180
    gbnathan

    #180
    gbnathan Active Member

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    I did the pop&lock install as well today and can confirm that the wire connectors were junk. Thanks for your post drdave. I was wondering if the lock mechanism was supposed to be that loud but I guess that's just the way it is.
     
    gbnathan, Dec 31, 2015
    #180
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