Please Check My Suspension Parts List

About to order a whole bunch o' suspension stuff. Would really appreciate if people could check and see if I'm missing something obvious or might have incompatible parts. I've researched this extensively, but that doesn't mean I still didn't screw up somehow! Links provided for each part (mostly to Wheelers Off Road site). Thanks for your help!

Front

• JBA Standard High Caster Ball Joint UCAs - JBA Std UCA
  
• ICON Extended Travel Coilovers -
• ICON Sway Bar Relocation Brackets (included in above part number)
  
• Wheeler's Front SuperBumps -
• ECGS Bushing (Tool & Replacement Seal) - T8CS-BUSHING
  
• UCA Bolts (in case I cut the originals) -
• Stainless Brake Lines -

Rear

• All Pro Expedition Leafs -
• All Pro U-Blot Flip -
• ICON Extended Travel 2.0 RR -
• Wheeler's Rear SuperBumps -
• Carrier Bearing Drop -
• Three Degree Shims -
• 2" Longer Brake Lines, Stainless -

For reference I'm planning on about 2.5" lift in the front (don't want to rub CV boots) and about 2.5" to 3.0" in the rear (depends on load of course, I have about 450lbs minimum in the back at all times so that gives about 3.0" expected lift height with the All Pro Expos). I don't have or plan for a front bumper or winch, single battery and will do aluminum skids so doing the standard 650lb ICON springs in the front. Those rear ICON shocks are apparently a custom build part number that Wheelers has for 2.5" to 3.5" rear lift which would match the All Pro Expos.

I usually live far away from my truck (only used for camping) so I don't want to dick with it later as doing or scheduling work will be a big hassle after this summer, hence adding the ECGS bushing right away. Similarly no one ever seems to have vibes if they put in a 3 deg shim at this lift height though you might get away with out it. Real pain to add in later (I don't like the slip in types) so putting in the shim from the start as being best odds at not having vibes. Carrier bearing drop easy to remove or add as needed, will just order and install for now. If I have vibes I will measure all angles and decide what might need to change, but again seems best starting point is to put the 3 degree shim in from the start.

I'm going with the JBA ball joint UCAs as that design seems to have matured and I'd prefer to avoid the maintenance and potential squeaking of the uniball options. This truck is very low mileage and will probably be running with less than 100k miles twenty years from now so having user replaceable ball joints with an easily available part is a plus for me. The JBAs provide as much articulation as the uniballs as well.

Thanks for taking the time to help read this through!

EDIT: Changed rear brake line extension to +2" from +4" inches since Wheeler's technical help said 4" would probably have slack that needed to be tied up and 2" is plenty additional for the All Pro Expo at a 3" lift. Added stainless brake lines for the front as well (already bleeding the brakes, so why not).

 

Extended brake lines for the front?

 

Good question! My original thought was that with the stock LCAs on there I wouldn't need longer brake lines. But it actually is the shocks that limit the travel and those ICONs along with the JBAs will allow just a bit more down travel (1 inch I think) so I wonder if I do need longer lines in the front too. Hmmm.... will have to look into that.

Thanks, good catch!

 

Also what about limit straps? Can't hurt to have them even if it is the shocks job to limit the travel having the straps can't hurt as an added protection plan

 

Also gussets make sure you have uca gusset lca gusset and any other gussets to make that shit strong to avoid braking things

 

while your in the back, you gonna do the differential breather mod?

 

I figure that is an add on if needed. It seems from research the front setup shouldn't need limit straps in this configuration, nor the rear. But good thought, I'll definitely be checking full travel for binding or other issues and if there is a problem will need to do straps for sure.

Don't wheel that hard to need them I think. I don't go over whoops or rocks fast, but I do have to go slow over some nasty sections to get to camping spots and I do run washboard pretty fast. JBA actually makes a beefier gusseted version of the UCA. Pretty sure sticking with the stock LCAs but considering skids for them.

Definitely on my "to do" list but I'll probably save it for another day as this will already be quite the install on its own. Thanks for the idea and the reminder!

 

You don't need extended brake lines for the front, but while you are at it, you should do stainless lines since you will be in there.

Since you are going extended travel in the front I would recommend you do your CV boots and do the SDHQ 930/934 style long travel boots because the stock ones will eventually tear from the additional droop.

 

Great, thanks for that - I didn't think the front extended travel shocks added much but wasn't sure if stock length was enough. Knew I needed longer lines for the rear. Good idea on going stainless in the front, already dicking around with the brakes and needing to bleed so might as well do that at the same time. Added those to my OP. Also I talked to Wheeler's on the phone about the length for the rear and they said +2" should be enough for a rear 3" lift. I originally was getting +4" and they said that would of course work but there would be slack to tie up.

Hmmm... Hadn't thought about the effects of the additional travel down and the CV boots but of course that makes sense. I know people that lift enough (around 3") in the front end up with the CV boot fins touching at rest and they can wear out fast that way. Naturally the range of motion doesn't change with just a coilover lift and so CV boot wear problems seem to be mostly about where the CVs sit most of the time. But going "mid-travel" means they can get even lower too. Was hoping to avoid dealing with the CV boots, but maybe better to just get that "right" upfront. Diff end of CV already needs to be disconnected for the ECGS bushing. Time to go thread searching on CV boots. Thanks for the tip on the SDHQ boots, think I read about those months ago but you saved me a bunch of searching.

 

Yeah I went 2.25" in the rear of lift and didn't need lines, but I spaced them out a little bit as an added insurance policy. I never touched the fronts but now I am considering doing stainless all around because they give you better brake pedal confidence. They also don't allow the fluid to boil over as fast as with rubber lines. Since you are doing 3" in the back (which I think would be too much if you are only going to do 2.5" in the front) I would definitely suggest getting extended lines. My mid travel is maxed out in the front, the rear could probably use some more, but my setup works well for hauling ass out in the dunes and the dirt.

I almost think I am lifted at 2" instead of my intended original 2.5" because I have notable rake from rear to front, but either way, the SDHQ make the CV's appear pretty flat on even ground, so I have no issues with rubbing, but regardless, given you have a 2nd gen, they switched over to plastic boots on the outers and over time with enough drooping and wheeling, they can tear, the inners as well because they are short, the 930/934 style boots from them relocate the fins and space them further apart so you can run the same or more lift without having to worry about rubbing at regular driving angles, fins will rub at droop regardless, but since nobody drives at full droop all the time it's not really an issue. I ran the supplied band clamps they supplied on the outer end of the boots and zip tied the inner parts of them to allow for the boots move some at droop and compression where they need some movement or else they can tear (They advise allowing the inners to have movement for that reason).

 

Well the rear is just going to be whatever it ends up being with my load as I can't adjust the leaf! All Pro says the Expo will be 3" lift with 400-500lbs of cargo. I think I'm at least 500lbs in the bed dry (290 lb shell, 40 lb raised floor, Yeti cooler, and a bunch of camping gear) and that weight never leaves the truck. I probably have a good 100lbs more right behind the rear seats (recovery gear, tools, compressor) that would put half its load on the rear axle. And adding maybe 50 lbs of aluminum skids back there too... So I think in the end the Expos will come out somewhere between 2.5" and 3" dry. And yeah, definitely want extra brake line length. Seems like everyone running Expos needs longer lines.

I weighed the truck stock at a CAT scale the day I bought it (and got separate axle weights). On my to do list is to go get a new axle weights with the FlipPac shell and my gear and mods on it. That should give me a better estimate of where I'll come out with the Expo leafs.

Ideally I wanted to keep the front CV angles reasonable and so was thinking front lift set with the coilovers to about 2.5" assuming the rear was close to that height as well. But of course I can adjust that to match what the rear ends up at as needed to get whatever rake I want. The ICONs supposedly go up to 3.5" of lift in the front. I don't need 3" at all, I'm running 235/85/16 which fits at stock ride height and have no plans for 33s - but if the rear ends up at 3" I could make the front match.

Right now with the stock suspension people flash their high beams at me all the time because the rear is so heavy the nose is pointed up! Haven't adjusted the headlights since I don't drive the truck around town much and hoping to get the suspension done soon which should either fix the problem or require a whole new headlight adjustment anyway.

Thanks, that's great feedback. I'm looking through the SDHQ boot threads now, seen some of your helpful posts in those threads already. Seems like the "do it once right" approach would be to go with the SDHQ boots now during install. It always sounded like a pain so I was trying to avoid it, but better now planned than down the road unexpectedly. I've got some professional help with the install from a local tech that's a TW member and so I could leave the boot job in experienced hands while I do some more basic wrench turning on the rear suspension.

Thanks again for the help!

 

If you have plans to get any kind of tires, make sure you get 265/75/16 (32's), those fit best in the stock wheel well and will fit the lift beautifully. Yeah just do the CV's and don't look back. I know it sucks, but better now than later right? Just like you said. Let me know if you have any other questions.

 

Know that is the standard over sized tire for stock height, but I prefer "pizza cutters" for the terrain I end up on so I went with 235/85/16 BFG KO2 which are the exact same total diameter as the 265/75/16 but just with a narrower tread (so even less chance of rubbing actually). Still fit the stock rim width, and 4.5 lbs lighter per tire as well. Less common tire size though, was happy BFG still made it in the KO2.

Yep, sound advice. Thanks!

 

265's are technically pizza cutters for terrain, especially mud if that's what you plan on driving on. They are perfect for it. If weight is your concern then I understand, just know that your lift is going to look weird without the bigger tire.

 

Yeah, I expect they will look even more narrow once lifted. Right now they look a little big of course. I've seen some photos of this size on a 3" lift and it looks fine to me, but I'm very much a function over form kind of guy so I completely understand if others wouldn't want their truck to look that way. Heck, if it looks a little weird then it'll just match me

Thanks again for all your help!