Want opinion on roof rack: for bicycles

The OEM I had on my 2nd gen was miserably wobbly for anything that stuck up more than a few 2x4's. The leverage of a fat bike (and where did you get a 20lb fattie!?!) even with a fork block mounted on the front crossbar is still going to sway a ton. Do yourself a favor and get a 1UP USA hitchrack with the fat bike spacer kit- it is simple and works for all wheel dimensions (26" up through 29+) and removes quickly. Also, getting a bike on to the roof of a Tacoma sucks unless you have great side steps or you are 6' 6"

 

Oh yeah, the fatty wouldn't ever go on the roof. I have the Thule conversion for my T2 (hitch mounted). I have it, I haven't actually *used* it since I ride from home.

PS, MY fatty isn't 20. I have a Muk3 with a frame bag and some other add-ons.
My wife's 9:zero:7 is pretty light (not 20, relatively speaking), but you can get a beargrease not too far from there. Even lighter, and I want to say from your neck of the woods are the LaMere.

 

I think three examples of leaking factory roofs racks out of the thousands that are out there is nothing to worry about. Im thinking of going the same route with bikes over the cab because I want to use a Soft Topper. Two on a hitch rack and two up top if need be. I also have a Dakine tailgate pad which is great because I can fit 5 bikes over the tail gate.

 

I am on my 3rd 2nd Gen Tacoma and 3rd OEM Roof Rack and never had one issue.

 

Exactly besides the three people with issues I have never seen an issue with an OEM Roof Rack.

 

I've often wondered if this would work for my bikes, which are always XL / 23, etc.
Be that as it may, transporting mountain bikes or fatty is the least of my actual needs (most is track bike, next is road), however biggest thing I'd anticipate transporting when camping or whatever. I don't know - wife, kids, dogs, bikes might be a camping trip "too far." This theoretical trip has never happened and if we bring dogs, we don't bring bikes and vice-versa. So, no dog can easily = 2 bikes on hitch and one in the bed.


Edit: Track bike will always go in the bed. Likely the same with the road bike if it is just the one.

 

I have not tried my road bike on it, and probably won't due to the cables being under the downtube. It works great for short trips with the mountain bikes though.

 

This was more just curiosity if the angle of my tire / BB would preclude this from "resting" - almost like the Specialized in the middle of your pic.
Be that as it may, once the topper is on, even without the front wheel no way my seat will fit under it.

I don't know where in state you are, but you do have the perfect set-up for "shuttling Apex."

 

I have not ridden Apex yet. I mostly ride trails I can ride from my door in Boulder. I dont do much shuttling anyways. I prefer to ride to the top.

 

I've actually never ridden Apex either. I'm all about the up and pretty much hate downhill.

4 out of 5 times, I pretty much stick to North Table and ride from home myself.

 

Look on Yakima's website www.yakima.com and click on the 2015 Product Catalogue. The A1 towers will work on a truck cap. A fork mount for your bike will be much more stable than the mount that has the front wheel left on. You could also look a the tracks, they would allow you to vary the width between the crossbars. ARE caps can be ordered with Yakima tracks and bars.
Good Luck

 

I would use a t2 hitch rack. With a proper 2 inch hitch I have supported k 4 dh bikes fine. Yes if you get rear ended it sucks.

You can check out 1up USA racks. A lot of people like them but the fatty maybe hard to take. It stacks the bikes at a slant. Might help a little idk

I personally use a dakine pad. For a road bike you could get a rocky mounts (or Thule) that mounts the axle to the bed rail. That's what I do for the road bike.

 

I've been through so many racks over the years .....

Just buy a rack from 1upUSA and be done with it. You'll never have to get another one, ever.

www.1upusa.com

 

Neither. I use a hitch mounted rack. Kuat NV.

 

Yeah, so does the T2. Slightly. Never did on my ram or jeep, though.
I did put that Fatty conversion on this afternoon and ran it through the carwash.


I converted the rear-most rack. I guess I still have a little space, but in "test fitting" I was concerned about putting my bar through the topper window if I hit some bumps.
I'll have to push it back as far as possible if I want to convert the front to a fatty as well for my wife's 9:zero:7. Still makes me nervous about bars vs. windows.

Anyway, the T2 fatty converter worked pretty quietly. At least around town.

And FWIW, I can pull into the garage and not have to unload if I don't want - so that's a non-issue.


BTW, those non-drilled rims? That is where ALL my weight comes from. That is the one thing I wish I'd done differently, but didn't want the hydraulics of the Muk2.

 

Oh and yeah, my roadies are ~63 (Cannondale and Trek). The Ridleys are ever so slightly smaller. That isn't happening under a topper for me.
They'll lay on a bedrug secured, or I guess I'll be using the front of that T2 until I convert it.

 

You think this guy would work?
https://www.yakima.com/1a-raingutter-4-pack
If so, I love it for a future option if I have to get to bike #3.

 

The Rack leaks like an SOB if you don't align the mastic washers perfectly or over tighten them. I had to pull mine off after my entire A-Pilar was soaked. Pulled it off and put RTV and Joint compound on all the threads and bought new washers from home depot (1/4 inch ID hole) and siliconed the heck out of everything. Shes drier than new now and she looks perty.
Also: watch the yellow tabs if you get the rack. If they break, your kinda ($*%%d because no dealer carries them for some odd reason.

 

1up racks do not have a hitch pin in them, so your rack could just fall off if the tightening mechanism loosens. This has happened...
Big oversight in their design. Otherwise a great rack.